Search Results (Searched for: gs swing arm)
Replace Starter with Battery was created by steckrca
11 Jan 2021 19:24
steckrca
Hey everyone! Long time listener, first time caller. This board has been immensely helpful as I've worked on my 650.
Got the bike a couple months ago and have been steadily working on it. Guy got it on trade and wanted it gone. Someone had tried to turn it into a cafe racer so the frame was already bobbed--don't crucify me for having a bobbed 650. So far I've rewired the whole thing, all new forward controls, new front turn signals, replaced rear brake linkage, front pegs, and shifter, rebuilt carbs, begun rewrapping the 4into1 header, and the list goes on and on. She runs well but need to sync the carbs when my sync kit comes in.
I was out in the garage just looking at the bike trying to figure out a better place for the battery than zip tied to the front end of the swingarm (this was a temporary spot). Then I noticed the gaping hole where the starter used to be. A couple measurements and a few bolts later, the starter is damn near a PERFECT fit in the starter hole. I ended up getting a Anti-Gravity AG-AT7B-BS-RS along with a Rick's reg/rect. I ended up facing the positive out, negative in. Yes, servicing anything electrical will be a pain in the ass, but it keeps the area under the seat nice and clean.
Looking forward to the day I'll have everything to a point where I can actually ride! A bit of welding, motorcycle license (not my first bike but i've never been legal), and a fresh chain and I'll be ready to go.
Here's how it sat on Sunday, before moving the battery. Suggestions welcome.
Got the bike a couple months ago and have been steadily working on it. Guy got it on trade and wanted it gone. Someone had tried to turn it into a cafe racer so the frame was already bobbed--don't crucify me for having a bobbed 650. So far I've rewired the whole thing, all new forward controls, new front turn signals, replaced rear brake linkage, front pegs, and shifter, rebuilt carbs, begun rewrapping the 4into1 header, and the list goes on and on. She runs well but need to sync the carbs when my sync kit comes in.
I was out in the garage just looking at the bike trying to figure out a better place for the battery than zip tied to the front end of the swingarm (this was a temporary spot). Then I noticed the gaping hole where the starter used to be. A couple measurements and a few bolts later, the starter is damn near a PERFECT fit in the starter hole. I ended up getting a Anti-Gravity AG-AT7B-BS-RS along with a Rick's reg/rect. I ended up facing the positive out, negative in. Yes, servicing anything electrical will be a pain in the ass, but it keeps the area under the seat nice and clean.
Looking forward to the day I'll have everything to a point where I can actually ride! A bit of welding, motorcycle license (not my first bike but i've never been legal), and a fresh chain and I'll be ready to go.
Here's how it sat on Sunday, before moving the battery. Suggestions welcome.
scubaanders
Ok so let’s look at it from a scientific perspective.
Zink plating is a rust inhibiter technic, zinc is more reactive than steel and will act like a sacrificial metal and will corrode before the steel does so. In order to inhibit the zinc to corrode to quickly the zinc can be passivated with a passivate like a chromate that bounds the outer electron layer on the zinc, thereby making the zinc less reactive and less prone to corrosion.
Therefor we zinc plate fasteners usually with a coating of zinc 5-25 microns thick and then dip it in a passivate that will end up less than 1 micron thick.
I order to get the zinc to stick to the metal the metal needs to be clean, free from rust och grease.
In most of the cases our fasteners are both greasy and rusty and we need to get them spanking clean before we plate them.
1. If greasy.
Soak in diesel for a day and shake the container from time to time, resorting to equal solves equal and thereby getting the diesel to dissolve grease. Then soak in a petrochemical degreaser for a while, rinse in scalding hot water. Then soak in a alkaline degreaser for a while, rinse in scalding hot water again.
Now your fasteners should be free of grease. They might still be rusty though.
2. If rusty.
Rust can be removed in many different ways,
• mechanically with a steel brush
• by blasting, wet or dry, with less ore more aggressive blasting media. Just make sure your method doesn’t remove too much goods from your fasteners as they will go out of dimension. Dry sand is very aggressive, plastic beds, walnut shells, Vapor blasting, soda and dry ice the least aggressive.
• reverse electrolysis is also a method, but it’s quite cumbersome hanging bolts and nuts in the bath and you will need to remove the black ferrite that will form on the fasteners from the reversed rust.
• Chemically with acid, my favorite method. The more aggressive acid the faster it will dissolve the rust, but be careful because an aggressive acid like HCL will also dissolve the iron in your fasteners if you leave it in for to long.
So now that your fasteners are clean and free of rust its time to set up your plating set.
I set up 7 different plastic tubs and always go through the complete cycle even if my fasteners has just been cleaned with any of the methods described above.
I hang my fasteners in copper wire and start dipping
1. Alkaline degreaser
Just to make sure that there is no grease, remember fingers might be fatty, dip in the degreaser and leave for a couple of minutes.
2. Distilled water
Then a dip in distilled water to get rid of the degreaser.
3. Acid
I use 30% HCL which is pretty aggressive, I looks at the fizzing and when the fasters look clean and the fizzing slows down its done. No need to remove all the zinc but you need a spakning clean surface to get the zinc to plate to.
You can use a less aggressive acid, it might just take a little bit longer.
White vinegar (acetic acid), Tile cleaner (phosphoric acid) at ca 30% can be good alternatives to HCL (hydrochloric acid).
4. Distilled water
Then a dip in water to get rid of the acid.
5. Plating solution
I preheat my plating solution by placing the plastic can where I store the solution in a bucket with scalding hot water in before filling up my plating tub.
The tub is also equipped with an aquarium heater set at 25⁰ C and an aquarium air pump that makes sure the solution is circulated.
Before dropping my zinc anodes into the bath I give the a good brush of and make sure the copper wires has a good connection.
Makes sure I connect the polarity right and then hang my fasteners for plating.
If the fasteners come out dull I rise the current a bit and try again and might add brightener.
As Nessism wrote, let the solution sit for a while every now and then and siphon of the plating solution in order to get rid of the muck that will fall to the bottom of the can when stored.
Some items are a bitch to plate, like inside insex sockets, inside swingarm pivot tubes and might require some moving around and makings sure the solution are able to flow through while plating. If consider that the zinc atoms shall leave the anodes and travel to your fastener through the solution, the atoms will need a clear line of travel in order to attach to the right spot on your goods.
Power source, a bike battery can be used as a power source with some kind of rheostat like a wolfram coil, but a good power supply with a amp meter is the best.
6. Distilled water
Now a last dip in water
7. Passivate
Dip and leave in the passivate for 3-4 minutes
8. Hang to dry
Do I need to say that even though the stuff used to day is not highly toxically, its not meant for human consumption, its pretty nasty stuff and shall be handled and stored accordingly. Passivate used to contain hexavalent chromium that is seriously bad for you, nowadays not so much, they have come up with new solutions but it should still be handled with outmost respect and 30% HCL will hurt you.
Like Nessism I restore carburetors and a lot of the parts on eighties jap bike carburetors are made of unobtanium, therefor are no longer available on the open market and replating is the only option.
Happy dipping!
/Anders
Zink plating is a rust inhibiter technic, zinc is more reactive than steel and will act like a sacrificial metal and will corrode before the steel does so. In order to inhibit the zinc to corrode to quickly the zinc can be passivated with a passivate like a chromate that bounds the outer electron layer on the zinc, thereby making the zinc less reactive and less prone to corrosion.
Therefor we zinc plate fasteners usually with a coating of zinc 5-25 microns thick and then dip it in a passivate that will end up less than 1 micron thick.
I order to get the zinc to stick to the metal the metal needs to be clean, free from rust och grease.
In most of the cases our fasteners are both greasy and rusty and we need to get them spanking clean before we plate them.
1. If greasy.
Soak in diesel for a day and shake the container from time to time, resorting to equal solves equal and thereby getting the diesel to dissolve grease. Then soak in a petrochemical degreaser for a while, rinse in scalding hot water. Then soak in a alkaline degreaser for a while, rinse in scalding hot water again.
Now your fasteners should be free of grease. They might still be rusty though.
2. If rusty.
Rust can be removed in many different ways,
• mechanically with a steel brush
• by blasting, wet or dry, with less ore more aggressive blasting media. Just make sure your method doesn’t remove too much goods from your fasteners as they will go out of dimension. Dry sand is very aggressive, plastic beds, walnut shells, Vapor blasting, soda and dry ice the least aggressive.
• reverse electrolysis is also a method, but it’s quite cumbersome hanging bolts and nuts in the bath and you will need to remove the black ferrite that will form on the fasteners from the reversed rust.
• Chemically with acid, my favorite method. The more aggressive acid the faster it will dissolve the rust, but be careful because an aggressive acid like HCL will also dissolve the iron in your fasteners if you leave it in for to long.
So now that your fasteners are clean and free of rust its time to set up your plating set.
I set up 7 different plastic tubs and always go through the complete cycle even if my fasteners has just been cleaned with any of the methods described above.
I hang my fasteners in copper wire and start dipping
1. Alkaline degreaser
Just to make sure that there is no grease, remember fingers might be fatty, dip in the degreaser and leave for a couple of minutes.
2. Distilled water
Then a dip in distilled water to get rid of the degreaser.
3. Acid
I use 30% HCL which is pretty aggressive, I looks at the fizzing and when the fasters look clean and the fizzing slows down its done. No need to remove all the zinc but you need a spakning clean surface to get the zinc to plate to.
You can use a less aggressive acid, it might just take a little bit longer.
White vinegar (acetic acid), Tile cleaner (phosphoric acid) at ca 30% can be good alternatives to HCL (hydrochloric acid).
4. Distilled water
Then a dip in water to get rid of the acid.
5. Plating solution
I preheat my plating solution by placing the plastic can where I store the solution in a bucket with scalding hot water in before filling up my plating tub.
The tub is also equipped with an aquarium heater set at 25⁰ C and an aquarium air pump that makes sure the solution is circulated.
Before dropping my zinc anodes into the bath I give the a good brush of and make sure the copper wires has a good connection.
Makes sure I connect the polarity right and then hang my fasteners for plating.
If the fasteners come out dull I rise the current a bit and try again and might add brightener.
As Nessism wrote, let the solution sit for a while every now and then and siphon of the plating solution in order to get rid of the muck that will fall to the bottom of the can when stored.
Some items are a bitch to plate, like inside insex sockets, inside swingarm pivot tubes and might require some moving around and makings sure the solution are able to flow through while plating. If consider that the zinc atoms shall leave the anodes and travel to your fastener through the solution, the atoms will need a clear line of travel in order to attach to the right spot on your goods.
Power source, a bike battery can be used as a power source with some kind of rheostat like a wolfram coil, but a good power supply with a amp meter is the best.
6. Distilled water
Now a last dip in water
7. Passivate
Dip and leave in the passivate for 3-4 minutes
8. Hang to dry
Do I need to say that even though the stuff used to day is not highly toxically, its not meant for human consumption, its pretty nasty stuff and shall be handled and stored accordingly. Passivate used to contain hexavalent chromium that is seriously bad for you, nowadays not so much, they have come up with new solutions but it should still be handled with outmost respect and 30% HCL will hurt you.
Like Nessism I restore carburetors and a lot of the parts on eighties jap bike carburetors are made of unobtanium, therefor are no longer available on the open market and replating is the only option.
Happy dipping!
/Anders
Replied by Skidmark on topic Saving a '81 KZ750-E
06 Jan 2021 19:34
Skidmark
She is back on both feet again. I packed the swing arm bearings and pressed them in today. Got the back end put back together. Now if I could just get to the bench with the cylinder head on it... :dry:
Skidmark
Oh happy day! I love getting parts. My new swing arm bearings showed up. These are German made bearings, and $6/ea. cheaper than Partzilla/Z1E.
Krazee1 - you are a frickin' rock star! I got the shims you sent today, too! Now I can get the head back on the motor. Woo hoo!!!!
Krazee1 - you are a frickin' rock star! I got the shims you sent today, too! Now I can get the head back on the motor. Woo hoo!!!!
Replied by Skidmark on topic Saving a '81 KZ750-E
30 Dec 2020 15:35
Skidmark
I was finally satisfied with all of the grinding and sanding on the swing arm modification, so it made it to powder coat today. I should have it back about the same time the new pivot bearings arrive. I have to take another detour for a week or so anyway - the daughter's '72 bug needs some dad love. Pulling the motor and installing a set of dual Kadron carburetors.
Replied by Kozman011 on topic Frame bracing and rear swingarm reinforcement on 1978 KZ650B
25 Dec 2020 19:11 - 25 Dec 2020 19:15
Kozman011
I'll be doing the Race-Tec springs, emulators, and oil on my 77 KZ650. I had it done to my 17' Kawasaki Voyager. Best 450 bucks I ever spent on a bike. While my Voyager is still a whale, it rides SO much better. Tracks almost like a street bike.
I will be upgrading the stem/steering bearing as well. New tires this summer. Still need to come up with a plan for the rear shocks.
I will be upgrading the stem/steering bearing as well. New tires this summer. Still need to come up with a plan for the rear shocks.
Replied by Nessism on topic Saving a '81 KZ750-E
24 Dec 2020 11:54
Nessism
Skidmark wrote: A very Merry Christmas to the KZR forum members! Here's to a much better year than this last disaster - it can't get much worse (I have hope!).
I am getting very close to having the swing arm ready for powder coating. Still doing some finish grinding and sanding, then I need to pull the bearings out. I found some replacement bearings at a company called Motion Industries for $6 each cheaper than both Partzilla and Z1E. The replacements should be here before the powder coating is completed. Once all of the prep work is done I will post some more pictures of it before it goes out for coating.
I am still trying to get my hands on the valve shims. What a mess... after ordering the correct size to get the clearance closer to the middle of the adjustment range, the supplier waited for the first ones to be returned before shipping out the new ones. The US Postal service is really messed up right now. They sat for 9 days in a Sacramento sorting facility. Once the supplier finally received them, he shipped the correct ones. Unfortunately he clicked on my default PayPal shipping address. Since I rarely use PayPal, I had neglected to update my shipping address when I moved three years ago. So they went to the wrong address. USPS can't tell me if they are in route back to the shipper due to an expired forwarding address, or if they are in fact being delivered to my previous address. They are somewhere in postal limbo. This is entirely my fault, but at least my PayPal address has gotten updated. Hopefully the current owner of my old home or the supplier will see them soon, so they can get forwarded to me. I would highly recommend not using USPS for any shipments right now. UPS is doing a great job of keeping transit times down. FED-X is working in conjunction with USPS, so sometimes it's okay, other times not. Stick with UPS whenever possible!
What sizes do you need? I've got a few spares that were gifted to me by a former member of this forum named Koolaid kid. Not sure I have what you need but if so, they are yours.
Replied by Skidmark on topic Saving a '81 KZ750-E
24 Dec 2020 09:46
Skidmark
A very Merry Christmas to the KZR forum members! Here's to a much better year than this last disaster - it can't get much worse (I have hope!).
I am getting very close to having the swing arm ready for powder coating. Still doing some finish grinding and sanding, then I need to pull the bearings out. I found some replacement bearings at a company called Motion Industries for $6 each cheaper than both Partzilla and Z1E. The replacements should be here before the powder coating is completed. Once all of the prep work is done I will post some more pictures of it before it goes out for coating.
I am still trying to get my hands on the valve shims. What a mess... after ordering the correct size to get the clearance closer to the middle of the adjustment range, the supplier waited for the first ones to be returned before shipping out the new ones. The US Postal service is really messed up right now. They sat for 9 days in a Sacramento sorting facility. Once the supplier finally received them, he shipped the correct ones. Unfortunately he clicked on my default PayPal shipping address. Since I rarely use PayPal, I had neglected to update my shipping address when I moved three years ago. So they went to the wrong address. USPS can't tell me if they are in route back to the shipper due to an expired forwarding address, or if they are in fact being delivered to my previous address. They are somewhere in postal limbo. This is entirely my fault, but at least my PayPal address has gotten updated. Hopefully the current owner of my old home or the supplier will see them soon, so they can get forwarded to me. I would highly recommend not using USPS for any shipments right now. UPS is doing a great job of keeping transit times down. FED-X is working in conjunction with USPS, so sometimes it's okay, other times not. Stick with UPS whenever possible!
I am getting very close to having the swing arm ready for powder coating. Still doing some finish grinding and sanding, then I need to pull the bearings out. I found some replacement bearings at a company called Motion Industries for $6 each cheaper than both Partzilla and Z1E. The replacements should be here before the powder coating is completed. Once all of the prep work is done I will post some more pictures of it before it goes out for coating.
I am still trying to get my hands on the valve shims. What a mess... after ordering the correct size to get the clearance closer to the middle of the adjustment range, the supplier waited for the first ones to be returned before shipping out the new ones. The US Postal service is really messed up right now. They sat for 9 days in a Sacramento sorting facility. Once the supplier finally received them, he shipped the correct ones. Unfortunately he clicked on my default PayPal shipping address. Since I rarely use PayPal, I had neglected to update my shipping address when I moved three years ago. So they went to the wrong address. USPS can't tell me if they are in route back to the shipper due to an expired forwarding address, or if they are in fact being delivered to my previous address. They are somewhere in postal limbo. This is entirely my fault, but at least my PayPal address has gotten updated. Hopefully the current owner of my old home or the supplier will see them soon, so they can get forwarded to me. I would highly recommend not using USPS for any shipments right now. UPS is doing a great job of keeping transit times down. FED-X is working in conjunction with USPS, so sometimes it's okay, other times not. Stick with UPS whenever possible!
16 inch rear Mag to Spokes...16, 17 or 18? was created by ez_goin112
19 Dec 2020 21:12
ez_goin112
I have a question about rear rim size that I can't find an answer to so hopefully someone here can help me out.
I have a 1978 KZ1000B LTD with mag rims that I am about to replace with spokes. Currently the mags are 16" rear and 19" front. The new rear spoked rim will be 5" wide to accommodate a 170 tire.
My question is should I stick with the 16" or go to a larger 17" or 18" rim. Availability of performance tires is a main concern.
I have a fair amount of performance work done to the bike including a stretched box tube swingarm with 9.5 inches between the arms that should fit the wider tire.
Any advice and opinions are appreciated.
Thanks
Eric
I have a 1978 KZ1000B LTD with mag rims that I am about to replace with spokes. Currently the mags are 16" rear and 19" front. The new rear spoked rim will be 5" wide to accommodate a 170 tire.
My question is should I stick with the 16" or go to a larger 17" or 18" rim. Availability of performance tires is a main concern.
I have a fair amount of performance work done to the bike including a stretched box tube swingarm with 9.5 inches between the arms that should fit the wider tire.
Any advice and opinions are appreciated.
Thanks
Eric
Replied by kpier998 on topic 1982 KZ1000K2 (LTD) Weights and Measurements
13 Dec 2020 19:11 - 13 Dec 2020 19:17
kpier998
badcurator.org/resources/Magazines/CW_Oc...e-Lawson-Replica.pdf
Notice the swingarm and eccentric look a lot like a ZRX1100 swringarm, which I am considering as an upgrade.
Also, see the image showing the 8 plug head? Fast By Gast would do those at one time. I have no idea how the ignition would be set up for that. But I think the point was to reduce spark advance from 35+ down to maybe 30 and still avoid detonation. At least that is what I think I remember reading somewhere else...
The article states that the wheels for the EL bike and ELR replicas were magnesium. I will be weighing comstars and comparing to the weights for the stock cast wheels on the LTD. Anathema I know, but if there is a significant weight savings and if the bolts will work, I may put on a set of 18" boomerangs. Will document the weights above once I have them.
Notice the swingarm and eccentric look a lot like a ZRX1100 swringarm, which I am considering as an upgrade.
Also, see the image showing the 8 plug head? Fast By Gast would do those at one time. I have no idea how the ignition would be set up for that. But I think the point was to reduce spark advance from 35+ down to maybe 30 and still avoid detonation. At least that is what I think I remember reading somewhere else...
The article states that the wheels for the EL bike and ELR replicas were magnesium. I will be weighing comstars and comparing to the weights for the stock cast wheels on the LTD. Anathema I know, but if there is a significant weight savings and if the bolts will work, I may put on a set of 18" boomerangs. Will document the weights above once I have them.
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