Not having seen the bike, this is what I'd likely do:

Determine when it last ran reliably. If carbs hold fuel and it's not been running for the past year, expect to remove and clean carbs. But you could try to run some Seafoam through them first, although I'd strip them.

Remove spark plugs and kick engine over. There should be no mechanical sounds and resistance should be low as there is no compression to overcome. If fluid comes out the plug holes, determine what it is (oil/fuel/water). If it is water, definitely open engine. Chances are it's toast, though.

Do a compression test - less than 7 kg is really bad, but if the engine has sat for a long period piston rings can be mildly stuck. This may rectify itself with some use. Compression may raise as a result. More than 12 kg and you should find out why.

Do not omit checking valve clearances (as I did) - you want the valves to have sufficient clearance.

Check how the spark plugs look. You can find plenty of sites with explanations and pictures to guide you if needed. Smell them if moist. Replace if worn.

Set timing statically after gapping the points to 0.35mm and checking that their surfaces are not burned or pitted. Slight pitting can be sandes smooth, just make sure the points are sitting square against each other. If badly pitted, replace points and condencers.

Cam chain tensioner should be automatic on your '78, so no maintenance should be needed there.

Drain the old oil cold. If engine has sat for years with dirty old oil in it, I would fill it with 2 litres of the cheapest oil you can find plus one litre of ATF (automatic transmission oil) and run it warm with about 2000-3500 rpm. 10 minutes should do. Drain oil and now remove oil filter. Fit a new filter and fill up with 3.5 litres of fresh motorcycle oil.

I'd also fit new tyres AND tubes if they are more than a couple of years old. Check the rear brake linings and drum.

The front brake, if you plant to keep it, should have its caliper checked for free movement (along pins plus piston) and flushed with fresh fluid as a minimum.

Check the fork for leaks and replace the oil with fresh 10W or 15W fork oil.

Check steering stem bearings for freeplay (none) and smooth action with nigh on zero friction.

Check the swingarm for freeplay (should be none) and smooth operation.

Check that all cables and levers etc. are lubed and move smoothly.

Check chain and sprockets for wear and make sure the rear wheel is tracking straight.

There are probably more that should be done, but this should keep you occupied for a couple of hours :lol:

I ended buying this bike off of craigslist about halfway threw last sumer, as normal, it had its share of problems, like the rings had snapped from somebody trying to get the engine unstuck, not a huge deal, i just replaced that plug alot. lol. Fast forward to this winter, i was going to pull the engine out and rebuild it, well i did that no problems. Then i got to looking at the frame, i sandblasted it, and painted it, etc. WEll i get a call from my friend who just bought the same bike, and his frame had been de-tabbed and hacked in the back. Well we traded frames, and i cut the whole back off, from the hoop back, extended the swing arm 5 inches, tacked in some down tubes and came up with this.

tk11b40 wrote:

The Bike has been in protective custody for a while, I was ready to burn it.

I talked with the shop owner, he is ready to get it on the dyno, and has a baseline jetting scheme.

In a week or two I should have something to report. I also found a set of jets from my old ELR (Lawson replica), I could start with those, but the dyno guy is all set.

Meantime I went to see how the "other side" enjoys the weekends, you know NOT on a racetrack... See photo.

mmmmm funny lookin harley

The Bike has been in protective custody for a while, I was ready to burn it.

I talked with the shop owner, he is ready to get it on the dyno, and has a baseline jetting scheme.

In a week or two I should have something to report. I also found a set of jets from my old ELR (Lawson replica), I could start with those, but the dyno guy is all set.

Meantime I went to see how the "other side" enjoys the weekends, you know NOT on a racetrack... See photo.

The Bike has been in protective custody for a while, I was ready to burn it.

I talked with the shop owner, he is ready to get it on the dyno, and has a baseline jetting scheme.

In a week or two I should have something to report. I also found a set of jets from my old ELR (Lawson replica), I could start with those, but the dyno guy is all set.

Meantime I went to see how the "other side" enjoys the weekends, you know NOT on a racetrack... See photo.

The GS 110 swing arm, what year would that be? I have a 77 kz as well and my original guy cut it and hardtailed it, without my permission. It does still have the holes for the swingarm and I'm putting one back on. How much longer is the gs 1000 swing arm than the 77 kz original? thanks

On the shock installation, I actually had access to a same model GSXR1000 to get the measurements. I referenced everything off of the swingarm pivot, since it is the only common tie between the 2. I welded a 1" piece of tube stock 6.5" vertical from the pivot, then welded a 3" x 4" x 3/8" piece of flat stock slighlty elevated of the bar to mount the top shock to,then welded some solid 1/2" bar stock for vertical supports. (I did finish weld it a little better at a later date!)

I had to grind the inner part of the frame that the pivot bolt slides through to account for a wider area of the swingarm with the bearings. I ground them down to the thickness of the 2 washer and it fit quite snug.

I think I have a similar problem on my 82 kz1000ltd. When I apply th :side: e rear brakes, the rear of the bike shifts to the left, as if the right side has no bearings. I had the bike down to the frame last month. The first time it happened, I checked and tightened the swing arm pivot bolt, which was very loose. The problem is still there though?

Good Morning...

Spent some time on the kz tonight. The first thing I did was get beer out.


Then pull the tank off, and it rattled... not like rust or a nut or something. Come to find out that someone had made it their home while it was barned with no gas cap. Pretty sure I got it all out with the hose. Is there any suggestions on getting the inside of this tank sealed? Do I do it before or after I dent the tank? Not the cheapest way either...


Got the carbs out and the old air cleaners off. They look in good shape, but are dirty on the outside, an overhaul none the less will be required. Are there any suggestions for Velocity Stacks for my carbs, or should I wait till I figure out my exhaust? I think stainless steel lines are in the future as well.



I pulled off most of the right side foot controls and pegs except for the kick start. Any way someone would know the size of that allen bolt?

Oh yeah, I took a pic of the engine serial #. It's a z1 for sure but is it really a 76? Not so sure now.




I pulled the gauges off up front and worked out most of the wiring harness and where everything goes. (hence the blue tape) The lights for the dashboard really pissed me off. How do I get the front cover off to remove the bulbs? I ripped one right out of its socket through the back trying to pull one out.




And last but not least. My friend put some bondo on the aluminum swing arm to smooth it all out for paint. Not MY First thought. Is bondo a good source for smoothing aluminum welds? That was his original plan, but it's chipping off in lots of places. Was it done poorly? Plus, I know painting aluminum is a bitch. I know it needs to be anodized.



[attachment:8]C:\fakepath\bondo'd aluminum.jpg[/attachment]


Well thats it for now, thanks for all of the interest! I know there are sections in this forum for these questions, I would just like to have one one build where a new person can see everything I did, and why I chose that way.

Captain