Haybus wrote: I would plan on about 4" of travel in the rear. Not sure your current mock up will support that. You may have trouble with piggy backs clearing the over brace, unless you cantilever them out a bit.

Alan

Yes I know it's too low at this time, but I ran out of front fork height on this mock up.
I'm not 100% sure what I'm going to do about the shocks at this time, but I'd like piggy backs if I can figure out a way of doing it without removing the overbrace.
Good news is, Tom from cycle one off e-mailed me back and said his fork extensions would work perfect for this type of project.
Now I need to get the triple tree mods and swingarm bushings done, so I can figure out how long of fork extensions I might need.

Had to redo some other items as I bolted certain painted items the paint was ripping. But I'm on the express path now to hopefully getthis bike on tthe road in a couple weeks. I'm in the get through little items and bolt things on phase. I polished the swingarm and going to assemble it today. I fixed the paint ripping in the sprocket and rotors, rebuilt he brakea and various other items.

kamakazie1000 wrote: Unfortunately My Work Computer Blocks Forums, So That's Just How It Comes Out Whe I'm Using The Browser On My Phone?

Ok, was just curious as it's something I don't see very often.

To most people a Capital letter usually means the start of a new sentence, so I read your postings as a whole bunch of one word sentences :laugh:

81 Police bike uses that motor also, not that you'd want a Police bike frame.
Might be cheaper to buy a late seventies 1000 with a bad motor and a good title, and use it as the basis.


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I stand humbled. Nothing broken or cracked, specs checked, bearings/gears/cases/swingarm are sound. I was missing a singular piece. :silly:

What I did was "misplace" (thanks to a mini-nephew) then forget (all me) the 85mm spacer between between the final drive and wheel. This results in approximately 2 mm flex and the wheel touching the final drive. When relaxed and properly reassembled, no stress in positioning or fit.

Note to self: got lucky this time. Memorize the FSM.

My Big Issues With My Current frame Are A) It Has No Title And When It Was Given To Me There Was A Gap On The Bottom Left Rail Where Someone Had Cu The Kickstand Off Of It. There Are Plenty Of Frames On Ebay And In Salvage Yards Here In The Housto Area. Since I'm Going To Be Getting Another Swing Arm Anyways, I Will Be Upgrading To Needle Bearings. I Had Planned On Doing A Roller Beating For The Neck Also.
ThIs Project Was Given To Me by An Old Roommate In Leiu Of Owed Rent Money. It's Missing Pieces And Of Piece Are Questionable, Not What I Would Have Chose To Start A Project With, But Oh Well.
As Far As Other Plan Go..
The Motor Is In Pretty Solid Shape, I'm Planning On Splitting The Cases And Inspecting Everything, Replacing What Needs Replacing And Painting The Cases, Covers, Cylinde, And Head All Black.
1075Cc Pistons, Rejetted Stock Carbs, Stoc Cams, And A Very Open Shirt "GP" Style Exhaust.
I Also Already Have Tarozzi Rearsets And Clip Ons.
It's Still In The Planning Stages ButI Have Aspirations Of A Pretty Mean Looking And Sounding Cafe Bike Before To Long.

In your list of services, was the valves checked/ adjusted during the Tune-up? Back quite a few miles ago, I'd be checking them again before such a trip. Also get the proper spark plugs, Non Resistor, your fuel mileage should increase as well. Go over everything, cables, steering bearings, swingarm, etc to make sure its good. If your traveling by yourself, make sure you carry spares and a cellphone. If its all good it will do that trip easily. Just keep in mind things like a flat can leave you out. Carry patches and a CO2 quick air tool with a couple cylinders.
I'm with Steel, keep to the two lane, the twisty stuff, you'll have a lot more fun.

Welcome...I too have a 77 B1. I believe your motor will fit into an A1 frame or any frame that had a kick start motor....but I am not sure why you need to do that, why not just get a swingarm to fit the frame you have? One of the cool things about the B1 is that the swingarm comes with needle roller bearings as stock which goes a long way to improve stability especially if you change out the steering bearings to modern roller bearings. My bike was cafe(d) but I am changing it back to more stock cause it's not so good on my back. Running wire wheels on it will be really cool, try to get a front that has a twin disc setup. What else are you planning to do to it? Also post this in the projects section with lots of pictures, plenty of people on here with loads of technical advice....I'll be watching

might be just rehashing this, But i have a 96 GSXR 750 F.I. Srad sitting in the garage now that has no spark and because it was a totaled bike but is rebuilt almost. makes me wonder how tough it would be to put it on the frame of my KZ750 that is a 79. the gsxr is pretty much complete other then the head light and the right side clutch controls .
but i have seen several on here that have changed the rear swing arms from the early gsxrs to the KZ.

can you let me know if you have build thread on your bike? ya have me thinking of doing something like this instead of the fight for a title etc... on a totaled bike. besides i got the whole thing for 300.00 because of the no spark issue so tearing it apart might be even more fun then trying to rebuild it

There are many hours that have gone into my '83 KZ1100LTD since I got it back as a pile of parts from a very, very naughty shop who was hired to swap shift forks (no, I didn't whack the forks). Many wouldn't believe what they took apart, which is a story for another day.

So, in the final stretch of restoration, readying for a first run tomorrow, all together...I am putting the rear wheel back on. Headed up to the FSM 101 ft-lbs torque in the rear axle nut, with a piece of heavy PVC extending the bar side to fix it in place and working up on the nut, I hear a "click" or "clack" kind of like something adjusted in the holding rod or pipe alignment.

Well, the 101 ft-lbs comes to bear and lo and behold, the wheel hub is TOUCHING the final drive. There is no motion.

My thinking is this: I have collapsed something in that final drive. I think this because when I look at the wheel assembly (including bearings, spacer, brake, and swing arm everything is 100% contact. The only place I see it isn't (again FSM) is the final drive.

I am sure glad this didn't happen on the road. Need advice. Is the FSM 101 ft-lbs overrated, like 87 would do? Any ideas what may have "popped?" FSM shows a snap ring, paired oil seals, etc.

Anyone else had this happen?

Wildly, would the final drive off a 2001 Mean Streak fit? Got one in the garage and it looks oh-so-close. The axle bolt matches diameter and thread but is longer for that wider swing arm. Thinking I just might check the measurements and splines tomorrow.

Not much progress as of yet, and I'm still a hundred miles from the other photo database, but I'll post what I just received in the mail, via Royal Post.

Since I am using a modern fork I have to use an electric speedo, so I found this Velona Daytona 200 at digitalspeedos.com. Very nice people to deal with and it showed up quickly. I really didn't want to replace the stock gauges, I liked the big dials, but I wasn't finding a good quality electric sweep gauge the same size. So why not put this one into the stock housing? After about twenty mins of carefully opening the case I did manage to disassemble it and wrap the old clock up for safe keeping. And what I got was this:

I think it looks pretty good, a little bit like some modern bikes with one clock bigger than the other. Since this is just a mockup it didn't take any pics of putting it together (the ring inside the housing is a coffee can lid), so when I machine up the aluminum ring I'll be sure to document.
And a few more pics of it bench testing:




Thanks for the comments and the warm welcome, I'm hoping to keep updates pretty regularly now. Bluesmoke, the wheels are late model R1 wheels, tricky to get into a GSXR fork and ZX636 swinger but i'll detail that soon.
Back to work