Yes     KZQ   thats a 50s servi rear end.
I also would like to ask if you have weighed your trike at the tires?
Mine came out 176 pounds on the front tire and 258 on each rear.   I took these numbers while reinforcing my swingarm. 
I agree with the binding at the swingarm, but again what about every factory 3 wheeler? Am I wrong on thinking the bearings will "lift the bike" before they fail?(total of 1000 lb+)
Basically if the swingarm  binds because of flexing, if it don't flex are we then good to go?  
I am asking questions to poke holes in my theories, not yours.I am wrong a lot ,hahahaha  
you can see the springs I added for the "unsprung" weight. After the springs and mono shock she is SMOOTH.

Hey Everyone! It has been a long time since I've been in the motorcycle game, let alone the KZ world, but so damn glad to be back. On to the good stuff. Well, kinda...

TL,DR: Questionable past of a "pro street" build, lots of miscellaneous mismatched parts, need to figure out best route to go for a decent street build. Pics will come tonight. Questions further down....

Traded a clean studded 5.3 LM7 and all my various parts for this KZ 1000. I feel like I got the better end of the deal, clean title, mostly complete parts bin, nice roller, etc.. The story I got was that he bought it running from a gentleman in WV who drag raced with it. No confirmation by way of pictures or time slips, so no reason to doubt up to the point. THEN he starts telling me how it being a 1075 with these carbs(I find out carbs are later model VM28's, non pumper, sometime from 1972-1975, based on info I found here) and it had some 300hp. Now I'm starting to feel like this is not what I think it is. 300hp on a 1075 with VM28's seems really far fetched. But as we continue on, he claims it to have an undercut trans, it does have an air shifter setup, Dyna limiter box at the top of the tree, Dyna ignition at the crank(I don't recall seeing a box that I thought they needed to run), excel coils, wires, +2 swingarm, J Head, KZ cylinders, KZ block, and some giant cams. Has all the trimmings to be a fun street bike with a little grunt for a fun few runs at the track, but I'm thinking more about 125 hp at best. Maybe even less. So I get it all home and did the research on the parts that did come home. 

Frame VIN (Thank the lord Zedder exists) shows it as a 1980 KZ1000-E2 Shaftie, Motor VIN shows it as a 1980 KZ1000-A4 MKII. He had 2 different cams, one is a web 231(.470 lift, 300 dur.) and a Cammotion Z10(.485 lift, 272 dur.). Cylinder bore is 2.835 or so, pistons measuring 2.825 ish, so 1075 seems correct. 3 of the pistons have no markings, shocker. One piston has the Wiseco emblem and the 4052 embossed underneath. So still not sure what was happening here, but I'm working under the assumption that a few valves were playing footsies with 3 of the pistons, and that's why a few of them are different and a new head appeared. The one Wiseco piston has a wrist pin sticking halfway out, it is 17mm, and it's 100% seized. I'm sure it'll press out fine, but I assumed they should be able to slide into the piston fine(assuming there are no burrs from the c clip moving in the groove). I figure the con rod will need to be heated to allow the pin to slide in and the piston will have a smidge of free space to slide in, but I have never done this before so correct me if I'm wrong. Also, he said the center gasket on the cylinders was milled out and epoxied where it separates the timing chain from the cylinders. Why? I assume it's an old school thing, but definitely threw me through a loop.

Goals. Fun street bike, I'll probably only use it to go back and forth to work for the most part, maybe take it to the track once or twice, but nothing crazy. Yet.

So, now you all have the information I have. Here is where I have a few questions, that I've not yet been able to find here. 
-I know I'll lose a couple points in compression using a J Head on KZ engine, but if someone were to make this head fit on this motor from a compression perspective, what would be the changes? Milling the head? milling the cylinders down? Need to make sure this wasn't some bastard child that was put together before I move on to other things. Would I be better off running a stock KZ head?
-I'm going to weigh the pistons to at least make sure they're all the same in that perspective, but can someone help clear up the proper way to install a wrist pin? Heat up Piston in the oven then heat up the con rod, then glove up and throw the pin in afterwards? Would I just be better off buying a new set of pistons, rings, clips, and pins? Trying not to do that yet, but will do what's necessary to keep this old girl alive. 
-CAMS. These cams seems to be insanely oversized for a 1075 and VM28's. Maybe I'm wrong, but that's what I feel with my limited knowledge of these motors. I've heard the Web 118's are perfect for a 1075 mild street build, but need to make sure the valves weren't under shimmed for the monster cams it came with. 
-VM28's Carbs. I have no problem rebuilding, balancing and tuning carbs, but I'm not sure if these will be good enough for this application. VM29 Smoothbores better? RS34's? CRS31's?
 

I noticed the cupped serrated washer but figured you swapped them in for the front foot pegs. I don’t know what they might be for but they are not anything I have seen in a Kz hardware lot.


EDIT, As for the “T” blocks that go in the rear swing arm. I never figured that one out either. I think black is correct. But if you search on NOS you will find them zinc. I left mine in the swing arm when it was powder coated so I went with that. 

Also, I've found , what I think are the perfect wheels for a swap on these old bikes, that is if you are going to go to 17 inch wheels, take into account I've also used a different front end and swingarm, and some mods to the wheels are to be done, I'll be swapping to these wheels later on down the track. They are a set of 17 x 3.5 front and 17 x 4.5 for the rear, they are from the late model 2017-2019 Z650 Kawasaki, 5 spoke and way lighter than the original Kawasaki mags. I'm having to machine a small amount from the front disc mounts, and some from the rear sprocket carrier but the difference in unsprung weight will be noticeable, I think they look great as well...  Its still a bit of work to make any aftermarket, or different model wheels fit though, not a job for the inexperienced.....

 

It seems like you're mostly asking about rear shocks?  I have some opinions, but none of it is based on first hand experience.  Just a lot of reading and hanging out around here.

As far as best bang for the buck, I'd say Hagon or Ikon.  Progressive is probably ok, but the things they offer seem to fall into the "I guess these might fit" category. 
Personally, I'd be most inclined to go with Ikon, although I'm not so sure about their Tri-Rate springs.

As if money were no object, it seems like Öhlins is very highly respected and very expensive.  But if I'm paying a lot of money, I want the shocks to be tailored very specifically to my application.  Personally I would chose Race Tech over Öhlins.  Race Tech builds shocks for your specific bike, swingarm geometry, weight, and riding style.  You fill out a form with all the details, they make you something to fit.  I'm sure there are plenty of folks that customize Öhlins shocks as well (being such a well known brand) but Race Tech seems pretty legit and the customizing process looks like it would be pretty simple.  I can't really speak to the build quality and valve technology.  Maybe Öhlins is better in some way?

The others in the list range from real cheap to expensive.  It seems to me that the cheap ones are probably not worth the savings over Hagon.  The more expensive and exotic brands may not be set up perfect for your specific bike, and it may be hard to find someone who knows who to customize or service them.

 

Hey guys!

First a quick intro:
25 years old, first motorcycle since riding 50cc’s as a 16 year old.I’ve been lurking around the forum for some time now, and have since gotten very good answers to my questions regarding the technicalities around the bike (thanks!). And instead of making a new post everytime I run into a problem, I thought it would be better to just make a project thread.

I bought a -79 KZ650B (I think it’s a B2A?) in august, and although it initially was very hard to get it running, it eventually fired up, and wow, I must say it was quite a joy to ride! (in comparison to 50cc’s atleast)

So, my plans for this project is to basically do a resto-mod (in my own way). And to get a more streamlined-look on the bike. Originally my plan was to do a café build, but after a while the original look just grew on me, so I’m going to keep the seat and rear fairing as it is, + no rear hoop, it would be a shame to chop it up IMO.

Here is a couple pictures from when I had just loaded it into the car after an 11-hour drive:





I figured I could start out with the things I have done to the bike so far:

• Switched out the handlebar to a LSL00 Street bar (steel), drilled holes for wiring

 

• Started cleaning/sanding and painting the frame with hammerite (ideally I would powdercoat it, but I want the bike ready for the season and I don’t have time to strip it all. Maybe in the future ---hammerite can be used as primer btw).

 

• Disassembled the front forks, since the oil seals were leaking (I’m thinking of painting the lower fork legs black aswell)

 

• Fabricated new (lowered) instrument gauge brackets (with lucas flush mount indicator lights)
  (wired up already, ready for paint)

 

• Starter clutch upgrade (ZR7S) with the complete secondary shaft, oil pump and pressure release valve

 

• Changed the clutchplates while I was upgrading the starter clutch

 

• Lucas 525 rear taillight + fabricated a bracket for it (ready for paint)

 

• Oil + filter change (Ride ENI 10w-40 JASO-MA)

 

• Halfway done with prepping the sidecovers, tank and rear fairing for new paint.

Parts I have acquired already, just have to mount them:

• Henry abe airbox/airfilter
  #107,5 and #110 main jets
  #17,5 pilot jets
  New gaskets for the carbs

 

• R.S side cover complete with emblem (the bike came with one from an LTD or something)

 

• New fuse box with blade fuses 4in-4out

 

• Waterproof connectors for the wiring harness (I’m gonna change them all out to save me headaches from bad connections later on). + putting braided wire loom on them.

 

• Short stem replica mirrors.

 

• Headlight ear brackets (to go with the gauge bracket I fabricated)

 

• New turn signals (small ones, black aluminum)

 

• New NOS instrument gauge covers in black

 

• New fork seals + dust covers

 

• 4* new carb holders

 

• Wheel bearings for the front and rear

 

• Steering bearing kit (all balls tapered roller bearings)

 

• Needle bearings for the swing arm

 

• New spark plugs (BP7ES)

 

• New fuel tank damper

 

• New capacitors and points

 

• Complete gasket kit (for maintenance and upgrades along the way)

 

• New brake pads for the front and brake shoes for the rear drums

Future plans:

• Removing rust from tank (there is very little of it, just some small flakes, and no leaks, but want it done).

 

• Cleaning carbs, rejetting.

 

• Painting the tank, side covers and rear fairing in a very dark metallic green color with dual gold pinstripes (I’m thinking of detailing the tank/side cover emblems gold aswell)

 

• Mounting the henry abe airbox, I have to get ahold of some foam for it first

 

• engine guards – with the three point mounting

 

• switching out the front and rear fenders, preferably to a shorter type, might have to fabricate some.

 

• Dual disk brake setup in the front

 

• Steering damper(s) (maybe?)

 

• SH775 rectifier regulator (maybe? Heard it was a good upgrade from the original one)

 

• mount a small led bar (maybe?) beneath the headlight if I’m not happy with the stock-light. I dont want to ruin the retro look on the bike, but safety first.

Photobomb time.

wrote:

Just curious, have you installed the swing arm, the rim and tire you are going to use along with the shocks without their springs and check to make sure nothing will come in contact with your tire throughout the whole range of suspension travel??
 

I haven't taken the springs out but the clearance under the tail section would allow the springs to fully compress. I'll double check again later though, thanks.

 

wrote:

Got the frame back.

 

 Did the back end myself - changed the brackets to a straight bar and just plugged the end of the tubes. Welds are a little bit better with the reading glasses.

  

  

  

 

Just curious, have you installed the swing arm, the rim and tire you are going to use along with the shocks without their springs and check to make sure nothing will come in contact with your tire throughout the whole range of suspension travel??

Wanted to change things up a little and really see what the APE TracKing clutch was capable of and had the parts laying around, sort of.

Changed the footrest location to go back to GP shift style of gear selection for more positive upshifts, and I think it will be more comfortable.  I had recently received a big pile of oil cooled GSXR parts and stuff so I am picking through that as well for changes to this old girl.  
6" over 1995 GSXR750 swingarm will be a good bit different for me and if I don't like it I will change it back.