Early 80s gs1100 suzuki works, make sure to get shocks with it.
Just takes a little shimming

GS1000 Suzuki is a pretty easy swap, but those arms are getting scarce. I used a 87 GSXR arm on mine but it required a good bit of work and welding.

Ok so I am building my take on a cafe racer. I have a frame from a 1980 KZ1000, a motor from a 1982 KZ1000, the front triples forks and wheel from a 2000 GSXR600, and the swingarm and wheel from a 2004 GSXR1000.

I bought a temperature gage and a speedometer/odometer from Dakota Digital. The only issue is that the 1982 KZ1000 used a mechanical speedometer with a cable. This wouldnt be an issue but I am using the front end from a GSXR600. If the engine was from a GSXR600 this wouldnt be an issue either but its from a KZ1000. The GSXR600 had a sensor in the sprocket cover that would send a signal to the gages.

Ok so I feel like I am rambling but I hope you understand what I have going on.

Im curious, can I drill a hole in the KZ1000 sprocket cover and mount a speed sensor in that like they did on the GSXR600? If so, what does it read? The sprocket bolts?

Im a newbie to all of this so any information you can give me would be great.

typically harleys use cups because the necks are not machined for bearings like japanese bikes.

leon

Im in Virginia near Norfolk. I will call around and see if I can find someone to bend me some tubing at a decent price. As for the crazy intake I need to find time to shorten the thing. Im debating putting the original carburetors back on because Usps lost my F****ng jets to tune it. That's twice usps has messed things up. :angry

I will keep you all updated. I should probably make a topic in projects instead of technical. :silly:

If youre going to use the swingarm as part of a hardtail id strongly suggest checking/replacing the pivot tube bushing or bearings before welding the back end of it up rigid.

anything can be done with the right tools. Start with the diameter of the bearings on the goldwing swing arm pivot. then check the KZ. I had to drill out my KZ pivot holes to fit the larger bolt from the zx6r swinger. Once you figure that out also measure the width of the gold wing pivot area and compare to the width on the frame. My zx6r swinger was wider than the frame but only by a few MM. I used a grinder and ground some from the frame on both sides. Make sure it is a sung fit. Dont want it sliding side to side.

Thanks Leon, I felt it might not have been said enough what with some of the negative things I was reading around here, kinda made me feel like I wanted to curtail my posts some for the way I executed this project. On the other hand, I am a rather shy person and don't give as many compliments as I think I should, where they should probably be given. Like so many threads on here where people have showcased some very impressive fab skills, so I thought I might make that comment for those folks as well; they have given me a lot of inspiration.
D.Nel, I dunno how I missed YOUR build, but I'm playing catch-up!! I love the inspiration and the "thriftyness". I picked my whole suspension setup for $450, forks, triples, swinger, and shock. Wheels were another $300, your right, there are deals to be had out there! I've missed the start of several threads, but I'm glad I can see how far they have come. Awesome!!

And now for my own, I have some updates. First, I got the Andrews cams dropped in and decided to use the stock sprockets, as I didn't want to have to deal with degreeing them in to get it running and broke in. As would be expected the rubber dampeners were junk, and being as cheap as I am :blush: I couldn't see spending the money to buy some new ones or the APE alumin-ee-um ones, so I knocked up some for myself.

Next up, the carbs were still off the rack while I found the will to brave the 25* weather to rebuild the mini lathe and bang out a couple of those nifty billet fuel tee's. Luckily it warmed up enough Sunday to try my take on them.
I got to looking at the ones for sale on ebay and I just couldn't quite wrap my head around how they were made, it looks like the barb is pressed into the body. In that case I could see it get popped out when I pull the line off. Or its one solid piece. My twist is as follws:
I drilled a 7/16" hole at both ends of a length of 3/4" stock and cut them off and a couple pieces of 1/2" stock.

Turned the 3/4" pieces down small enough to fit between the carbs on the rack, which is about .600"and faced the ends.

Once the were the right size on the hole-y end, I turned the other side down small enough to serve as the barb. Then bored an 11/64" hole thru to the 7/16" hole.


The transfer piece was turned down to about .002" larger than the 7/16" hole and the ends turned to the same dimensions as the originals.

And then the o-ring grooves.

The .002" interference makes for a nice fit. Using a little leftover from the lathe, they went together in the vice with no issues.

Buy a manual and go through all the regular maintence items for the ignition.
Your car s need to be rebuilt. Again use your manual. And if your after the
'Look' of a cafe racer just start painting it to make it pretty like all the hipsters.
If you want a bike that you can ride, check compression and valve lash after
you get the engine running. Then start with the foundation of your bike, the frame.
Judging by the pics it's not been taken care of. Replace the steering stem bearings
and swing arm bushings. As long as the engine runs everything else is repairable.
Then go thru the brakes so you will have a solid and safe foundation to build upon.


.

As soon as I can figure out how to get the pivot bearings out of the swing arm to replace them I will be able to get my sprocket alignment figured out.

I am also debating making a custom rear duck tail out of aluminum. There are some cool things u want to do but I still want it recognizable as a KZ. It's why I have decided to go back to the single head light but with a super bright LED bulb.