Hi all my bikes in storage at the mo , but i need to know the swinging arm bolt dia . its a 79 kz1000 ltd . trying to get my gsxr srad swinging arm top hats and stuff made . if you could help out many thanks

I bought a new set of 34 flatslides and couldn't stand the clacking. I think better tuning would have limited the noise but I just gave up and went back to my 33 smoothbores. I really didn't like the sound. My head is ported and I have larger valves and I hear that makes the clacking worse...don't know. I bought a nice set of 35mm Keihin roundslide smoothbores that I hope to try soon. Lots of others love the flatslides...and they are supposed to be much easier to tune.

Just wanted to give you my $.02

531blackbanshee wrote: ... flatslide reportedly "clack"at idle do to the slide getting pulled to the front of the slide bores by intake pressure....

For more info and comparisons about Rattlekunis and Clackslides:

www.kzrider.com/forum/3-carburetor/22013...l=component&type=raw

69.46.28.106/forum/3-carburetor/413628-w...l=component&type=raw

Good Fortune!

either are a major improvement.
do you like the old skool look =roundslides
or the modern high tech look = flatslides

to me that is the main thing.

flatslide reportedly "clack"at idle do to the slide getting pulled to the front of the slide bores by intake pressure .
hth,
leon

Question:

Flatslide or smoothbores?
I am ready to purchase one or the other, any of you have a recommendation?

I bought one of these brand new in 1981.
One of my favorite rides, I guess because it was my first true street bike. The engines are bullet proof, the charging system should be checked. (free if you follow the manual and have an OHM meter)
Adjust the valve clearance. (free if you have a manual)
I used to rev mine to about 6000 RPMS with the clutch feathering, then let it all out at once, (drag start) and lean way forward and smoke the tire in first gear, as long as the pavement was smooth and shiny it would do it over and over. Never replaced the clutch or had any other mechanical problems.
I had charging issues at about 13,000 miles, but if I remember correctly it was a bare wire somewhere. Takes a few minutes, but well worth the time.

A good chain and sprockets are/ is mandatory. 125 bucks
Brakes are easy to rebuild and not too expensive, at least rebuild the front. The rear is a drum so it either works or does not. about 75 bucks at Bike bandit
brake pads 35 bucks
Tires are very important, new tires. 300 bucks.
Fork seals 25 bucks if needed, but is good to do anyway.

I rode mine all over the west coast, in the early 80's once road from Seattle to San Francisco in 18 hours, that was a long haul. I got rid of the stock "Bucko bars", and put a lower set on made the bike more comfortable. I have owned at least 15 other bikes since, currently own a Ducati, and am building a KZ,

www.kzrider.com/forum/11-projects/274097...imit=20&limitstart=0

I still love the 440 memories, it was so much fun.

500 or so dollars worth of maint and the bike is safe to ride for a long time. Enjoy.
By the way that header must be very rare indeed, I bet it sounds cool. The bike looks good too.

clutch perch fits nicely rumor has it more snow tonight and stupid cold tomorrow so wont know how well I like it as my heating is non existant in my building.




as soon as I can find my syringe will finish bleeding brakes
really like the new look transforms the front of the bike thinkin my
old scratched up turn signals need replaced cant decide on a repaint of my headlight ringor
a new chrome one

The black headlight will probably get switched out I plan on doing allot more riding this year
and need a little more light

The HID seems to be a bit brighter and probably sufficient (non flashing with the battery fully charged LOL)
have a chrome tri-bar on my mind but that can wait I still need to install pipe and get a few other
things done

really considering powder coating the swingarm the polish just doesn't seem to last and is a major
pain to get to. I have seen several painted and think it may make the new chrome of the pipe
stand out a little more

still tryin to add photos but the add file attachment button wont operate but anyway new master and cluch perch are mounted gonna pull swingarm and other stuff apart today for major cleaning and touching up need to check my swingarm bushings they have several thousand miles on them so far be a good idea to check the wear.

new windows 8 in explorer everything else works and I have uploaded the last few photos but quite frankly I hate the new computer lol

DoctoRot wrote:

650ed wrote: Here's how close the "crowns" are to the head on stock KZ650 pipes. The pipes on my bike have never been removed, so this shows how they came from the factory. Ed

How did you swap out your shocks? My manual says it is necessary to remove the exhaust to access the lower shock mount bolt. At the time I thought that was a bit ridiculous, but i had an exhaust leak so it wasn't a big deal as i needed to fix that as well.

I had no problem. I just loosened the bolts and slid them out far enough to release the bottom of the shocks. In fact, I removed the whole swing arm and both shocks when I replaced the swing arm bushings without needing to remove the exhaust (see image below). I protected the mufflers with some cloth so the bolts didn't scratch them when I loosened them. Ed

Dr. Gamma wrote: ........I picked up that trick back in 1978 on the DesRoche built Vetter Superbikes. Any machine shop can make you a few. I used a adjustable ream to enlarge the pivot holes in the frame so the swing arm bolt had a super tight fit to the frame. Then had my machine shop hone the inner swing sleeve so the oversize swing arm bolt had zero clearance between the two. If you have .020ths play at the pivot bolt, just think how much movement there is at the end of the swing arm where your rear axle is.

Even on my S1 I went to a oversize swing arm bolt. When I first got my S1 it wobbled pretty bad. I was really disappointed in its handling compared to my homebuilt KZ1000 Superbike. There was a noticeable improvement in the handling of the S1 with just installing the oversize swing arm bolt.........

That makes a LOT more sense than welding it. Especially when you consider that you will want to remove that swing arm one day even if it's only to change bushings (or bearings if you have them). I can't imagine needing to break a weld just to swap bushings. Ed