Ok the video of start up did not load... hmmm.

I have one hot lead that may have been contacting bare metal on acceleration. The headlight is on its way, then the taillight, a horn and signals. At that time I will be trying to locate the short, unless of course connecting all the hot leads removes the problem.

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configuration

531blackbanshee wrote: i believe that you will find they used this fairing

my dad is currently painting one for his kz650 :laugh: .
they are alot like the gpz fairings.

but,
that airtech fairing you linked to is a really cool fairing and would look right at home on your bike(or any kz).
can't go wrong either way.

leon

Thanks Leon! That is the one and it is cheaper. They also have a nice chin scoop I like. Thanks again for the link.
Hey Leon are you a CNC machinest? I need to make a caliper stay for my rear caliper. My year of caliper does not match my swing arm. All it needs is a block of aluminum with a grove cut in the center for the caliper to slide into. the block will be welded to the inside of the swing arm.

If anyone else has a solution to this please let me know.

If the existing sprockets aren't worn, but the chain's o'rings have deteriorated, seems reasonable to replace the chain, and use the existing sprockets.
But 10,400 miles may be reason enough to replace at least the rear sprocket.
Perhaps the rear sprocket pictured doesn't actually have 10,400 miles on it.
The front sprocket is often more durable than the rear, but it's relatively inexpensive.

Some factory drive chains were endless design (without a link), whereby installation entailed removal of the swing-arm.
Am thinking this idea began with the Z1.
The factory endless chains did not have o'rings, at least on the Z1.
Am uncertain whether endless 630 chains evolved to o'ring styles.

Meanwhile, the aftermarket link designs became popular due to easier installation (and often less cost) and have been reliable where the master link (and clip, where applicable) are correctly installed.

Good Fortune!

This one I have yet to get running -1980 ltd 29 smoothbores 4" over swingarm supposedly 1075cc with aftermarket cams. Rescued it off craigslist barter and threw my tins on it- was rolling some oil through the cylinders when the pic was taken. Not pretty but hopefully will be a runner soon.

The engine was rebuilt right before I got the bike, so I have not even opened it up. It seems to run perfectly and with very little vibration, idles perfect. I rebuilt the engine in an Eddie Lawson replica I restored about 20 years ago, cost about 2200 dollars back then with no labor.

There is Pit Stop performance, they advertise on this forum. if I had to do it again, I would pay the extra money, and know the motor was right.

Every time I rode the ELR, I would be listening to every little rattle and squeak, thinking I was damaging something, or had something put together wrong. I is not fun. The engine ran very well actually, but I forever worried about it. These engines are actually pretty straightforward. The cam timing and tensioners are what make the most noise. If you pull the cases apart be ready to set the transmission shafts in a supported position, so you can just set them back in the cases as they came out. Otherwise you'll be scratching your head.

It can be a few weeks before you put it all back together, OVER LABEL everything.

You are welcome for the pictures, and thank you for the compliments. This is a great forum. I hope that some of my photos help.

C-grats on your first ride! Makes all the work and WTF's pay off!!
Thank you for posting pics! I have been able to correct some of my problems through your pictures!
When you rebuilt your engine, where did you get your parts from, like cams, timing chain tensioners, bearings, etc?
thanks

tk11b40 wrote: Mark !!

Thank you thank you. The 20 amp ting will make me sleep better. the fuse blew after the first hard pull on the throttle, so if it supposed to be twenty amps, there may have just been a little too much juice for the 15 amp.

I was just dam happy to ride it after all this time. So I put it away. The odd thing is the fuse took some time to burn, the bike sputtered twice then quit. Like a real slow burn through.

i would imagine the element was just melting and slowly burnt, kind of like a light bulb that flickers before burning out??

I am sooo glad you are still around. You have a wealth of knowledge.
i look in on some of the projects i had been following occupationally.
i am extremely happy that u did not give up. now u can finally feel that fantastic feeling of gratification for all the hard work u have done. CONGRATULATIONS u deserve it..
i use the rs34's too. i like them.

i have seen what i feel must have been a loose connection(the female fuse holder around the fuse leg), burn the leg off the fuse.

Proud Papa...