Before you get all wound up spending money where you don't need it heres a couple of ideas for ya.
Have the crankshaft checked to make sure its straight and rods don't have an extra side play,then have the pins tig welded.Its doesn't need to be done by a fancy shop like falicon.
Have the trans checked for worn dogs or shift forks,no need to get too fancy.
Theres lots of guys drag racing old kz's with mountains of hp with stock transmisions.
Id suggest spending money on a new cam chain and parts associated with it,these are high where items that will beat your budget up pretty fast but will give you more bang for your buck than a fancy crank and trans.
1075 kit will definitely put some spunk in the motor,a good stage 1/street porting job from larry will work good with that.
Id stick with something more in the .365-.375 range with the cams myself
Id also find a set of the old 28mm pumper carbs off a 79-80 1000 to save some money.
Now is the part that is really going to blow the budget,but I consider it more important than a hot rod motor for a streetbike.
The single disc on front and drum brake on rear was under powered to stop that bike in stock form,let alone a warmed over 1075.
I suggest if nothing else atleast put dual discs on the front(rebuild forks also)
If you have money in the budget Id suggest getting a hold of kz1006,hes a member on here.And see if he has a rear wheel/brake/swingarm and associated parts from a 77-78 kz1000 laying around.
That way you have disc brakes front/rear,tell him you need a brake pedal/master cylinder also.
A decent pair of rear shocks is also a badly needed improvement,along with good tires.

RobK wrote: Yeah, I can't see an improvement in shifting the swing arm back. Longer wheelbase, true, but you're changing the dynamics of the bike by shifting the fulcrum. Would think it would actually make the machine less responsive, but if someone knows better, I stand ready to be corrected.

Id be really worried about the rigidity of those brackets from side to side,in the stock location theres a lot of tubes tied together at that point not to mention the engine cases tying things together.

Hello Yall,
I have a 77' Kz 1000 - (with mags) using the original swing arm.. could someone tell me what the largest REAR tire I can use..
Thanks

I don’t think so. It looks bright and shiny and the bolt comes out easy so it must be straight too.

Hey, is your sleeve knackered?? Mine is shot and I am trying to find a new/lightly used one.

So,the engine is sorted,for now, and its time to figure out the rest of it. The frame is stripped,delugged.The wheels and swingarm are bearingless and its all ready for the powdercoaters.
But,
One of the reasons for this build was to make something a bit different. I dont like the cruiser style of the CSR but I didnt want to go for a full on front end/ back end conversion.
Something in the middle.
Then again, a lot of the bikes Ive seen on this site have been pretty amazing.
But theres the cost to think about and a lot of possible engineering headaches.
But if I stick to standard,I end up with pretty much the same bike (a cruiser) with different paint.
(same soup,just reheated!)
Though I need to consider the safety side of things. Messing around with different sizes of forks/swingarms/wheels is going to really alter the geometry of the bike .Hows it going to handle??
Well,Ive been pulling my hair out about which way to go.Ive done a lot of research on the interweb,I know a lot more than I did this time last month.
So, I made up my mind.
Then I changed it.
A few times.
Then I ordered some parts.

Thanks for the replies. I have my last shipment of parts on it's way from the US now so I'm going to keep the bearings in for the sand blast powder coat process. The sand blaster will tape them up and seems to think it will be ok.

Rustyhama wrote: I'm almost ready to send my frame and swing arm to get sand blasted and powder coated. I don't really want to leave the needle bearings in there. I gave them a bit of a tap with the old big screw driver down the tube trick but they are stuck firm. Nothing in the manual about removal. I might try again with my heat gun.
Can anyone advise me on the removal of these please?

Am presupposing that the swing-arm's inner sleeve has already been removed, so that only the needle bearings -- one needle bearing inside each end of the swing-arm -- are now remaining inside the swing-arm.

When removed, the needle bearings are usually damaged and must therefore be replaced with new needle bearings.

Removal may be done with a metal bar used as a punch to drive out the needle bearing from the opposite end of the swing arm.

Assure that the bar bangs only against the needle bearing to drive it out. And take pains to avoid damaging the interior surface of the swing-arm.

Reverse ends to drive out the other needle bearing.

On some models, the new needle bearings are "pressed" in.
Don't know for sure that it would ease installation, but could try keeping the new bearings in the freezer overnight, and attempt to install them when ice-cold (maybe they'll slip right into their positions inside the swing-arm).

If a plastic or rubber hammer is used, be certain that the bearing is perfectly aligned to enter the swing-arm. (Don't try to drive it in crooked.)

Remember to grease the bearings before completing assembly of the swing-arm.

Good Fortune!

www.cmsnl.com/kawasaki-1982-kz305-b1-csr...ng-hk2216_920461115/

www.cmsnl.com/kawasaki-1982-kz305-b1-csr...odel15451/partslist/

www.partzilla.com/parts/detail/kawasaki/KP-92046-1115.html

I'm almost ready to send my frame and swing arm to get sand blasted and powder coated. I don't really want to leave the needle bearings in there. I gave them a bit of a tap with the old big screw driver down the tube trick but they are stuck firm. Nothing in the manual about removal. I might try again with my heat gun.
Can anyone advise me on the removal of these please?