here are some top hat style bushings that i machined out for benhurmx's zx636 to kz swingarm conversion.





this seems to be a very effective solution.
to the large diameter pivot bearing blues


hth,

leon

what year on the arm from the gsxr?
how will this interfere with the rear brake, and chain etc.?

To be honest,Im not sure of the year of my swingarm,it may be somewhere in my build thread.
CSR1000 Project Build.
This worked for me,though you would need to research your bike and whats possible to do to it. You have many hours ahead reading project builds on this site and others.Lots of possibilities,depending on how far you want to go with it.
A quick and easy swingarm swap is the popular gs1100. Goes straight in with a couple of spacers and you can keep your original wheel,chainline and brake.(youll need to change your shocks though) Or you could go with something more radical,fit a mono shock and a 180 tyre with all the work thats involved to get that sorted.
I have gone with something,I think,inbetween.It was still a lot of work though.
Pretty much everything that can be done to a bike,has been done and a lot of it is on this website.
Get reading and good luck

I think itll depend on what sort of swingarm you have and what size tyre you intend to fit.
I put a gsxr600 arm in mine with a Bandit600 wheel and a 160 tyre. It all fitted without having to bugger around with the frame. The Bandit wheel is a 3 spoke cast.

I needed to do something similar, to remove the orig front sprocket on my D2.



Took this rig, some heat, a 3' cheater bar and both hands to break this nut loose! The swingarm was there to keep things from moving, but the hinge pins didn't fare to well!

Hey boys and girls, found this in a barn in elma, wa

Take it down, pass it around and give me some ideas

Those are only miles I know of, oil and filter were new.

1984 gpz unitrack, not sure about the feering, was on it, but not wired, starter spins, crank is free, but no fuel, and haven't worried about spark yet.

Planning on a 200hp walbro fuel pump, adjustable fpr, hid conversion, set of bags (custom hand made)
Maybe a 1400 conversition?
Might want to switch out rear swing arm?

Hi, can anyone help with torque settings for the swingarm pivot and rear wheel axle on a zephyr 750 please?

The only visible difference in the frames that I can see are the passenger foot-peg/silencer-mounting supports. Ltd's did not come with a center stand but the lugs are still there to put one on. I believe also that the swingarm pivot tube has double needle rollers as opposed to bronze bushings (please correct me if I am wrong here ........if anyone knows for sure)

kawi810 wrote: was she good looking?

She was in a pink and blue full leather racing suit .... how could she not be. :laugh:

Also Zukdave think about buying the 1984 July Hot Bike magazine on ebay ...... it has a article about the Philadelphia Flash ( In 81 the NMRA started a Junior pro stock class) and the flash is a guy named Frank Giordano driving a 1982 KZ GPZ 750.

Bored to 770, lightened Falicon crank, alum rods, 4 speed Murdoch auto trans, STOCK Kawasaki plates lock up pusher and springs by Murdoc, Web cams, (no size given) APE valve springs, tit valves, Jardine sidewinder pipe, 33mm smoothbores, MTC Cyl studs,tit retainers, cyl head done by Giordano Performance racing ...... 8 inch over swingarm, alum rims 6 by 18 out back, etc etc...........

Ran a best of 10.06 and he then got it down to 9.97 then 9.80 and won the 83 championship.

Good idea boys,I hadnt thought of that.Looks a lot cleaner than welding a plate on and I held the rearsets up to get a better idea and with this method I should be able to get them further forward. I cant sit on the bike yet (to get a good position) as I still dont have the shock mounts yet. I took one of the original shocks over to the bike shop on thursday and hes going to machine some mounts up for me,then I can take them to the aluminium shop with the swing arm to get them welded on.Hopefully this time next week,I should have a rolling chassis.
So other than that,all Ive managed to do lately is re-thread and shorten the sprocket mounting bolts and get that mounted.

Not sure if itsthe right way around though theres a recess on tother side.This way brings it closer to the tyre.Other way brings it closer to the frame.Ah well,Ill sort it out when The motor is in.

My late birthday present came 1.75" over stock to even out the geometry and gain ride height. They are much nicer than the Works shocks I previously was planning on using. They are beefier everywhere and 6oz lighter per shock.



Because of the over length shocks I need a chain slider on the swingarm. Eric turned up this chunk of derelin and I fish-mouthed it so It uses no fasteners, as it is entrapped when the swingarm is mounted. I may need more sliders, but that can be addressed later if need be.




All the remaining tabs needed are welded on. The bungs for the exhaust hanger are welded in. A couple nasty welds have been cleaned up. The kickstand has been moved up to the bottom engine mount, the detent spring peg had to be relocated so the engine bolt could fit. The kickstand was shorted because it is now farther out from the center. I have plans for something trick to replace the stock solid one.



I then turned my attention to the rear sets. These Tarrozis were meant to be bolt-ons so they had to compromise a bit, like using the huge stock brake pivot. I also wanted to retain the use of my kickstart and the brake pedal was solidly blocking it.



I saw on a XS650 forum where people had cut a channel in the pivot to allow the pedal to be brought back out of the way temporarily. To do this you had to leave everything a bit loose to allow the pedal and pivot not to bind. I didn't want any slop in my footpegs so Eric and I came up with a solution i am very proud of. I cut a piece of 1"tube with .065" wall thickness and it made a perfect bushing for the footpeg and pivot. As a safety feature a spring loaded pin was added on the pedal so that the brake lever cannot be accidentally kicked up when riding. You simply compress the spring and pull the pedal up. Eric turned most of the parts, while grumbling about his "clapped out" lathe, and did the amazing welding as usual. I'm nearly done finishing the parts, I just need to clean up some if the holes I drilled. I also cut the threads off the footpeg mounting studs and drilled and tapped them to use some stainless countersunk washers. I also had to file down the Tarrozi bracket mounts to remove the counter sunk flange on the casting. I also took the opportunity to remove the casting marks. I have ordered folding footpegs from Fast from the Past, so I should have plenty of clearance for the kicker.