Oh boy.

Well. Shit.
That is going to be tough to fix. The steering stop broke away for the lower triple clamp I am assuming. The clamp is from a GSXR 1100. Perhaps this would be a good time to machine billet triple clamps. I can talk with the programmer at work who may do them after hours.

He is gonna be 30 buck an hour. You already have the painter contact info. This is a shame, the tank is brand new.

The airbox is pretty dirty, possibly the previous owner never cleaned in over several decades. The oily stuff could be blowby or could just be oily residue from years of use and/or overfilling the oil level. The engine breather exits into the airbox. I would clean it up and not worry about it unless it gets dirty quickly.

As far as the engine running with that airbox - if you do not have a clean, stock air filter to put in it the engine will run very poorly (if it runs at all) because the fuel/air mix will be too lean. Do you still have the rest of the airbox pieces? There should be a cup-like holder that fits inside the box to hold the bottom of the filter in place and a cap with a funnel molded into it that screws into the top of the box. Without those the filter won't stay in place and will not filter since air will simply be drawn around it.

On another note - here are some tips that you may find helpful. If nothing else be SURE to read the section on JIS screws under the TOOLS heading.

Many newbies and not so newbies run into the same problems or issues with their bikes which could be easily avoided with a little preparation. Here are a couple recommendations that I hope you will find useful.

Before riding your KZ you should take a little time to become familiar with it. Simple things like checking the oil, tire pressures, etc. are explained in the Kawasaki Owner's Manual. If you bike didn't come with one (they normally are in a little holder on the bottom of the seat) you can usually find one on eBay - be sure to get one for your exact year/model.


MANUAL

You really should consider buying the Kawasaki Factory Service Manual for your bike. The factory service manual provides instructions on the various maintenance procedures and schedules for your bike, procedures for diagnosing problems, proper torque values for the various fasteners (VERY IMPORTANT), and insight into how each system on your bike works even if you are not repairing that system. Studying the manual before you attempt performing service on your bike will impart an understanding of the system you are working on which will increase the odds of success.

The manuals usually are readily available for most models on eBay and other sources; but be sure to get one that has your specific year and model in it as there are differences between the various KZ650 models. I do not recommend Clymers, Haynes, or other aftermarket manuals as I have seen instances where they provide inaccurate advice. You may decide to use those to supplement the factory manual, but in my opinion they are not a suitable substitute. If you have trouble finding one for your model ask us to help.

When you get the manual take a look at the torque specs. MANY of them are in INCH pounds, and some of the larger bolts are in FOOT pounds. You will need 2 torque wrenches; one small one calibrated in inch pounds and a larger one calibrated in foot pounds. Trying to use a foot pound calibrated wrench to tighten the inch pound fasteners won't work properly even if you do the conversion correctly because the foot pound wrench will not be sensitive / accurate enough at its lowest settings. No torque wrench is accurate at ranges below 20% of its max setting.

TOOLS

WARNING! Do not even try to use Phillips screwdrivers on the Kawasaki cross head screws. Despite their appearance they are not Phillips screws. They are Japanese Industrial Standard (JIS) screws. The tips of Phillips screwdrivers are too long & pointed to allow the 4 blades of the screwdriver to properly engage the screws, so when you apply force the screw head slots will deform and look like crap. The fact is that Phillips screws were deliberately designed to have the screwdriver bit "cam out." This was done to prevent production line assembly from over-tightening, stripping, or breaking the screws. JIS screws do not have this problem. A proper fitting JIS bit can tighten a JIS screw to and beyond the torque spec without camming out. Here's the good news - you can easily modify standard Phillips screwdriver tips to fit the JIS screws.

I have ground down the tips of DeWalt #2 and DeWalt #3 Phillips to make them fit JIS screws. The large crosshead screws on the cases take modified #3 bits (or genuine #3 JIS bits). To modify the DeWalt bits you need to grind the very tip a little, then test fit, then grind a little more and test fit, etc. until the bit no longer "rocks" back and forth in the screwhead. Picture 1 below shows how a DeWalt #3 bit fits the case screws of my KZ650 after being ground properly. The #2 DeWalt bits can be modified the same way to fit smaller JIS screws. Pictures 2 and 3 below shows DeWalt #2 and #3 modified bits.

I did find a place that sells authentic JIS bits. They don't list the #3 bit, but if you contact them they can provide the #3 JIS bits even though they are not listed on the website. These folks were very easy to work with, and the authentic bits do work great. Here's their site:

www.rjrcooltools.com/shop_item_detail.cfm?subcat_ID=89

Pictures 4 & 5 below show a comparison between my home made modified bits with the authentic JIS bits.

PICTURE 1

PICTURE 2

PICTURE 3

PICTURE 4

PICTURE 5

Before reaching for that wrench or ratchet consider the following. The bolts are steel, but your engine and front forks are aluminum. The bolts are much tougher than the aluminum and if over tightened will strip the aluminum threads. Although these can be repaired, preventing damage by applying proper torque will save you grief, time, and money. Tightening fasteners properly requires torque wrenches. Various vendors, including Snap-on, CDI, Sears, etc., market torque wrenches. The two most popular types are the bar type and micrometer type. Either will work, but the micrometer type is a bit easier to use, especially if you are tightening several fasteners with the same torque - such as cylinder head covers. You will need a torque wrench calibrated in INCH POUNDS for many of the bolts. You will also need a torque wrench calibrated in FOOT POUNDS for the larger bolts. Don't try to use the foot pounds wrench on the smaller bolts as it will not be sensitive enough at low torque settings to provide accurate torque. There are many fasteners that require low torque. These include such things as 6mm oil pan bolts, cylinder head cover bolts, etc. for which the torque in 61-78 inch pounds. These low torque bolts require a wrench that is accurate at low settings and this wrench should be graduated in inch pounds. In addition, there are numerous high torque fasteners such as the front axle nuts (51 - 65 foot pounds) or swing arm pivot shaft nuts (58 - 87 foot pounds). These require a wrench that is accurate at higher settings; this wrench should be graduated in foot pounds. Using the proper torque wrenches to correctly tighten fasteners will help prevent damage and contribute to a safe bike. The Kawasaki Service Manual will list the various torque specs for the bolts. I suggest you get the manual before buying the torque wrenches so you can decide which wrenches best meet the torque specs.

Consider buying a can of Kroil penetrating oil and use it to soak stubborn fasteners for a couple days before trying to loosen them. Remember, the original screws and bolts were installed on your bike when Jimmy Carter was President, so many of them may be hard to remove. Kroil can be bought online, at guns shows, and at some other venues.


MOTOR OIL

The ingredients in oils have changed over the years. For example, today's Castrol GTX oil (and pretty much all other AUTOMOBILE oil) is not the same as it was in the 1980's. Back then it worked great in KZ bikes. But, things have changed. Early AUTOMOBILE oils contained zinc phosphorus compounds (ZDDP) to protect engine components from metal to metal contact. This was good for engines, but it was found to be destructive to catalytic converters. Consequently, in AUTOMOBILE oils ZDDP was virtually eliminated and replaced with different chemistry generically referred to as "Friction Modifiers." These work fine and offer good protection for normal AUTOMOBILE engines. However, today's AUTOMOBILE oil "Friction Modifiers" are destructive to wet clutches. KZ bikes (and many other brands) have wet clutches. As a result of these oil chemistry changes a distinction needed to be made between those oils which are suitable for wet clutches and those which are not. That distinction was documented by the Japanese Engine Oil Standards Implementation Panel (JASO). JASO developed a number of different oil specifications for different applications. The specifications that apply to 4 stroke motorcycles fall under the "4T Specifications." Within the 4T specifications the JASO MA class oils are specifically formulated for 4 stroke motorcycles with wet clutches.

There are synthetic, semi-synthetic, and non-synthetic oils that meet the JASO-MA standard and any of them will work ok. However, using oils that are not designated as meeting the JASO-MA standard is destructive to KZ clutches.

Good luck with your bike. Ed

That's the main reason I let no one ride my bike. Accidents can happen, but if someone damages your bike you feel bad about it and they feel bad about it. I let a friend ride my BSA once. He went about 30 yards before he crashed through a stand of small trees. :S Oddly enough, the bike wasn't hardly damaged, but he looked like he had been through a chipping machine. Lesson learned. Ed

sorry to hear about the friendcident those can be painful :whistle: .

www.outlawracingproducts.com/clampsmounts.html

leon

So the time had come to make changes. I have about 1300 miles on it now . I have a 530 chain and have geared it up back to normal. Still trying to get a counter sprocket with the correct spacing to clear the wider tire . Sprocket specialist helping .
Also tried to install Woodcrafts clip ons . However the risers hit the pinch bolts on the triple tree. . Need to find 7/8 inch bar clamps to fit normal bars. Clip ons may not work.
Finally the bad news is my buddy was riding the bike . He was losing balance and turned the handle bars jamming them into the steering lock. Broke the stop and dented the tank. I need to find a way to make strong steering locks and repair the tank.

Welcome aboard!

Here are some tips that you may find helpful:

Many newbies and not so newbies run into or issues with their bikes which could be easily avoided with a little preparation or information. Here are a couple recommendations that I hope you will find useful.

Before riding your KZ you should take a little time to become familiar with it. Simple things like checking the oil, tire pressures, etc. are explained in the Kawasaki Owner's Manual. If you bike didn't come with one (they normally are in a little holder on the bottom of the seat) you can usually find one on eBay - be sure to get one for your exact year/model.


MANUAL

You really should consider buying the Kawasaki Factory Service Manual for your bike. The factory service manual provides instructions on the various maintenance procedures and schedules for your bike, procedures for diagnosing problems, proper torque values for the various fasteners (VERY IMPORTANT), and insight into how each system on your bike works even if you are not repairing that system. Studying the manual before you attempt performing service on your bike will impart an understanding of the system you are working on which will increase the odds of success.

The manuals usually are readily available for most models on eBay and other sources; but be sure to get one that has your specific year and model in it as there are differences between the various KZ650 models. I do not recommend Clymers, Haynes, or other aftermarket manuals as I have seen instances where they provide inaccurate advice. You may decide to use those to supplement the factory manual, but in my opinion they are not a suitable substitute. If you have trouble finding one for your model ask us to help.


TOOLS

WARNING! Do not even try to use Phillips screwdrivers on the Kawasaki cross head screws. Despite their appearance they are not Phillips screws. They are Japanese Industrial Standard (JIS) screws. The tips of Phillips screwdrivers are too long & pointed to allow the 4 blades of the screwdriver to properly engage the screws, so when you apply force the screw head slots will deform and look like crap. The fact is that Phillips screws were deliberately designed to have the screwdriver bit "cam out." This was done to prevent production line assembly from over-tightening, stripping, or breaking the screws. JIS screws do not have this problem. A proper fitting JIS bit can tighten a JIS screw to and beyond the torque spec without camming out. Here's the good news - you can easily modify standard Phillips screwdriver tips to fit the JIS screws.

I have ground down the tips of DeWalt #2 and DeWalt #3 Phillips to make them fit JIS screws. The large crosshead screws on the cases take modified #3 bits (or genuine #3 JIS bits). To modify the DeWalt bits you need to grind the very tip a little, then test fit, then grind a little more and test fit, etc. until the bit no longer "rocks" back and forth in the screwhead. Picture 1 below shows how a DeWalt #3 bit fits the case screws of my KZ650 after being ground properly. The #2 DeWalt bits can be modified the same way to fit smaller JIS screws. Pictures 2 and 3 below shows DeWalt #2 and #3 modified bits.

I did find a place that sells authentic JIS bits. They don't list the #3 bit, but if you contact them they can provide the #3 JIS bits even though they are not listed on the website. These folks were very easy to work with, and the authentic bits do work great. Here's their site:

www.rjrcooltools.com/shop_item_detail.cfm?subcat_ID=89

Pictures 4 & 5 below show a comparison between my home made modified bits with the authentic JIS bits.

PICTURE 1

PICTURE 2

PICTURE 3

PICTURE 4

PICTURE 5

Before reaching for that wrench or ratchet consider the following. The bolts are steel, but your engine and front forks are aluminum. The bolts are much tougher than the aluminum and if over tightened will strip the aluminum threads or sometimes break off leaving nothing much left to grab. Although these can be repaired, preventing damage by applying proper torque will save you grief, time, and money. Tightening fasteners properly requires torque wrenches. Various vendors, including Snap-on, CDI, Sears, etc., market torque wrenches. The two most popular types are the bar type and micrometer type. Either will work, but the micrometer type is a bit easier to use, especially if you are tightening several fasteners with the same torque - such as cylinder head covers. You will need a torque wrench calibrated in INCH POUNDS for many of the bolts. You will also need a torque wrench calibrated in FOOT POUNDS for the larger bolts. Don't try to use the foot pounds wrench on the smaller bolts as it will not be sensitive enough at low torque settings to provide accurate torque. There are many fasteners that require low torque. These include such things as 6mm oil pan bolts, cylinder head cover bolts, etc. for which the torque in 61-78 inch pounds. These low torque bolts require a wrench that is accurate at low settings and this wrench should be graduated in inch pounds. In addition, there are numerous high torque fasteners such as the front axle nuts (51 - 65 foot pounds) or swing arm pivot shaft nuts (58 - 87 foot pounds). These require a wrench that is accurate at higher settings; this wrench should be graduated in foot pounds. Using the proper torque wrenches to correctly tighten fasteners will help prevent damage and contribute to a safe bike. The Kawasaki Service Manual will list the various torque specs for the bolts. I suggest you get the manual before buying the torque wrenches so you can decide which wrenches best meet the torque specs.

Consider buying a can of Kroil penetrating oil and use it to soak stubborn fasteners for a couple days before trying to loosen them. Remember, the original screws and bolts were installed on your bike when Jimmy Carter was President, so many of them may be hard to remove. Kroil can be bought online, at guns shows, and at some other venues.


MOTOR OIL
The ingredients in oils have changed over the years. For example, today's Castrol GTX oil (and pretty much all other AUTOMOBILE oil) is not the same as it was in the 1980's. Back then it worked great in KZ bikes, but things have changed. Early AUTOMOBILE oils contained zinc phosphorus compounds (ZDDP) to protect engine components from metal to metal contact. This was good for engines, but it was found to be destructive to catalytic converters. Consequently, in AUTOMOBILE oils ZDDP was virtually eliminated and replaced with different chemistry generically referred to as "Friction Modifiers." These work fine and offer good protection for normal AUTOMOBILE engines. However, today's AUTOMOBILE oil "Friction Modifiers" are destructive to wet clutches. KZ bikes (and many other brands) have wet clutches. As a result of these oil chemistry changes a distinction needed to be made between those oils which are suitable for wet clutches and those which are not. That distinction was documented by the Japanese Engine Oil Standards Implementation Panel (JASO). JASO developed a number of different oil specifications for different applications. The specifications that apply to 4 stroke motorcycles fall under the "4T Specifications." Within the 4T specifications the JASO MA class oils are specifically formulated for 4 stroke motorcycles with wet clutches.

There are synthetic, semi-synthetic, and non-synthetic oils that meet the JASO-MA standard and any of them will work ok. However, using oils that are not designated as meeting the JASO-MA standard is destructive to KZ clutches.

Good luck with your bike. Ed

We've made a little progress over the last couple of weeks. Just got the swingarm bearings yesterday, so we'll have a roller by the weekend.

Thanks for all the feet back - been reading a lot about the 1428 in here and also know it need a bigger head to get the full out of it all tough im actually looking for Torque and not high-end HP so for me the 1428 was more for the fun
I also know it needs a better breathing system for the crankcase etc etc
The bike as it is now is to powerfull for copenhagen meaning it gets boring to drive on it due to you can really rev it anywhere thats why i was thinking of the 1428 (to make it completly non rideable but still fun to say byebye to the new plastic bikes
Im gonna use it for events around Copenhagen and going (by truck) around europe to do 200m sprint races...
Everyone around Europe puts on NOS but i want to go bigger but still keep the estetik look of the old Z1 engine/bike

Im gonna upgrade the rear end with a 17" tire and a GSXR750 swingarm - gonna be 4cm longer and hopefully some more grip......
Also thinking about tuning on the ignition - im only using the DynaS... would people recomend the Dyna2000???

The bike brakes better than you thing Plummen - its 4LS system from an old Suzuki GT so in daily its the same as stock brakes and im not in it for the speed so suits me right




This was one of the last runs - we only adjusted the right side 3-4 on the engine and the guy doing it 'found' 11hp from my first set-up on the carbs - he is a Guru in motorcycle tuning, making cams and porting heads etc...



this was the A/F mixture at 1/4 - 1/2 and full throttle - learned so much about engine tuning the 4 hours we where adjusting mine



the day after my surgery - the rotated my foot 20 degrees - old bike injury they put wrongly together the first time

Stocky wrote: Nearing the end of a lengthy restoration Iim having some issues with the stands.
1. The centre stand has new springs but when it's up it just bounces under the swing arm. Should it be tensioned somehow?

The B4 center stand is designed to have a rubber covered pin butt up against a flat spot on the stock exhaust pipes. Without the stock pipes the center stand does wobble around. I kluged up a way to lash down my center stand using a bungee cord and the two stock exhaust hangers.

The PO put a 140 rear tire on the 16" rim, but comparing it to the 120 Shinko it doesn't look a lot wider, I think that's because the rim is too narrow and is pinching the tire, altering the profile. I'm still going through things,, so something else might also be contributing, but to me it feels horrible riding on that tire even at low speeds, the bike just doesn't feel right at the back. I can't wait to get my 18" rear on and the new tires. I just bought a GPz 550 rear brake caliper that in theory will work with my Police Rim and the rotor I have for it - fingers crossed..

Different brands of tire are definitely different in actual size and as stated earlier I think the Shinko 230 is likely a little bigger than the equivalent 712. Based on the Avon tire currently on the front, I think a 110 would be too wide for the rim. Tires also expand in use when hot so we need to be careful of adequate clearance, I recall one of the racers of the 70's (Sheene?) having a big off when a rear tire expanded and seized in the swing arm.