They are pretty tight but nothing you can't manage by hand if you have the right sockets for both sides., no air tools required.

I had a problem with the needle bearings and insert bush stuck solid in a 550 project recently, even a 20 ton press wouldn't shift it. Several heating cycles with a blow lamp and a big hammer finally shifted it. Never seen one this bad before.

I've been slacking on keeping my thread updated the past couple weeks but I've still been working on the bike when I get the chance! I initially painted the frame with some rustoleum enamel and then got worried about how well that was going to hold up so I decided to start over and repainted with VHT Rollbar and Chassis paint. I'm pretty happy with how it turned out, its not perfect but its better than it was!

A couple weeks ago I also dissembled the forks and cleaned them out really well, then got them rebuilt and new seals from All Balls installed. Taking them apart was kind of a pain due to the inner circlip holding everything together. I figure that by using a large bar clamp with the end that screws out, I could get the top plug pushed down and hold it there with the clamp, which gave me room to remove the circlip.



Today I attached the swingarm and fitted my engine mounts on so I could remember what goes where. Later this week I should have some extra time to get the engine back in and work on the steering stem. I ordered tapered bearings to replace the loose bearings that used to be on the stem, should be much better than it was!

Tank off o painting. Changed rear sprocket . Going to 530 and equivalent to stock gearing. Ordered a counter sprocket from a MRE in Fl. Changed the rear tire as well . It was done.
Also messing with handle bars in order to fit mirrors. .

Everything will be fine.

Well there are no projects in the garage, all the quads are running right, everything is good. The KZ is in good hands....The Ducati has been dyno tuned, suspension re-valved... the Guzzi needs nothing but more miles on it...

Wait wait...... rebuild the dirtbike engine. Yeah yeah....
I have brain damage. :silly:

Welcome aboard! Looks like you are already making good progress. Here's some info that may be useful as you work on it.
Many newbies and not so newbies run into or issues with their bikes which could be easily avoided with a little preparation or information. Here are a couple recommendations that I hope you will find useful.

Before riding your KZ you should take a little time to become familiar with it. Simple things like checking the oil, tire pressures, etc. are explained in the Kawasaki Owner's Manual. If you bike didn't come with one (they normally are in a little holder on the bottom of the seat) you can usually find one on eBay - be sure to get one for your exact year/model.


MANUAL

If you don't already have one, you really should consider buying the Kawasaki Factory Service Manual for your bike. The factory service manual provides instructions on the various maintenance procedures and schedules for your bike, procedures for diagnosing problems, proper torque values for the various fasteners (VERY IMPORTANT), and insight into how each system on your bike works even if you are not repairing that system. Studying the manual before you attempt performing service on your bike will impart an understanding of the system you are working on which will increase the odds of success.

The manuals usually are readily available for most models on eBay and other sources; but be sure to get one that has your specific year and model in it as there are differences between the various KZ650 models. I do not recommend Clymers, Haynes, or other aftermarket manuals as I have seen instances where they provide inaccurate advice. You may decide to use those to supplement the factory manual, but in my opinion they are not a suitable substitute. If you have trouble finding one for your model ask us to help.


TOOLS

WARNING! Do not even try to use Phillips screwdrivers on the Kawasaki cross head screws. Despite their appearance they are not Phillips screws. They are Japanese Industrial Standard (JIS) screws. The tips of Phillips screwdrivers are too long & pointed to allow the 4 blades of the screwdriver to properly engage the screws, so when you apply force the screw head slots will deform and look like crap. The fact is that Phillips screws were deliberately designed to have the screwdriver bit "cam out." This was done to prevent production line assembly from over-tightening, stripping, or breaking the screws. JIS screws do not have this problem. A proper fitting JIS bit can tighten a JIS screw to and beyond the torque spec without camming out. Here's the good news - you can easily modify standard Phillips screwdriver tips to fit the JIS screws.

I have ground down the tips of DeWalt #2 and DeWalt #3 Phillips to make them fit JIS screws. The large crosshead screws on the cases take modified #3 bits (or genuine #3 JIS bits). To modify the DeWalt bits you need to grind the very tip a little, then test fit, then grind a little more and test fit, etc. until the bit no longer "rocks" back and forth in the screwhead. Picture 1 below shows how a DeWalt #3 bit fits the case screws of my KZ650 after being ground properly. The #2 DeWalt bits can be modified the same way to fit smaller JIS screws. Pictures 2 and 3 below shows DeWalt #2 and #3 modified bits.

I did find a place that sells authentic JIS bits. They don't list the #3 bit, but if you contact them they can provide the #3 JIS bits even though they are not listed on the website. These folks were very easy to work with, and the authentic bits do work great. Here's their site:

www.rjrcooltools.com/shop_item_detail.cfm?subcat_ID=89

Pictures 4 & 5 below show a comparison between my home made modified bits with the authentic JIS bits.

PICTURE 1

PICTURE 2

PICTURE 3

PICTURE 4

PICTURE 5

Before reaching for that wrench or ratchet consider the following. The bolts are steel, but your engine and front forks are aluminum. The bolts are much tougher than the aluminum and if over tightened will strip the aluminum threads. Although these can be repaired, preventing damage by applying proper torque will save you grief, time, and money. Tightening fasteners properly requires torque wrenches. Various vendors, including Snap-on, CDI, Sears, etc., market torque wrenches. The two most popular types are the bar type and micrometer type. Either will work, but the micrometer type is a bit easier to use, especially if you are tightening several fasteners with the same torque - such as cylinder head covers. You will need a torque wrench calibrated in INCH POUNDS for many of the bolts. You will also need a torque wrench calibrated in FOOT POUNDS for the larger bolts. Don't try to use the foot pounds wrench on the smaller bolts as it will not be sensitive enough at low torque settings to provide accurate torque. There are many fasteners that require low torque. These include such things as 6mm oil pan bolts, cylinder head cover bolts, etc. for which the torque in 61-78 inch pounds. These low torque bolts require a wrench that is accurate at low settings and this wrench should be graduated in inch pounds. In addition, there are numerous high torque fasteners such as the front axle nuts (51 - 65 foot pounds) or swing arm pivot shaft nuts (58 - 87 foot pounds). These require a wrench that is accurate at higher settings; this wrench should be graduated in foot pounds. Using the proper torque wrenches to correctly tighten fasteners will help prevent damage and contribute to a safe bike. The Kawasaki Service Manual will list the various torque specs for the bolts. I suggest you get the manual before buying the torque wrenches so you can decide which wrenches best meet the torque specs.

Consider buying a can of Kroil penetrating oil and use it to soak stubborn fasteners for a couple days before trying to loosen them. Remember, the original screws and bolts were installed on your bike when Jimmy Carter was President, so many of them may be hard to remove. Kroil can be bought online, at guns shows, and at some other venues.


MOTOR OIL
The ingredients in oils have changed over the years. For example, today's Castrol GTX oil (and pretty much all other AUTOMOBILE oil) is not the same as it was in the 1980's. Back then it worked great in KZ bikes. But, things have changed. Early AUTOMOBILE oils contained zinc phosphorus compounds (ZDDP) to protect engine components from metal to metal contact. This was good for engines, but it was found to be destructive to catalytic converters. Consequently, in AUTOMOBILE oils ZDDP was virtually eliminated and replaced with different chemistry generically referred to as "Friction Modifiers." These work fine and offer good protection for normal AUTOMOBILE engines. However, today's AUTOMOBILE oil "Friction Modifiers" are destructive to wet clutches. KZ bikes (and many other brands) have wet clutches. As a result of these oil chemistry changes a distinction needed to be made between those oils which are suitable for wet clutches and those which are not. That distinction was documented by the Japanese Engine Oil Standards Implementation Panel (JASO). JASO developed a number of different oil specifications for different applications. The specifications that apply to 4 stroke motorcycles fall under the "4T Specifications." Within the 4T specifications the JASO MA class oils are specifically formulated for 4 stroke motorcycles with wet clutches.

There are synthetic, semi-synthetic, and non-synthetic oils that meet the JASO-MA standard and any of them will work ok. However, using oils that are not designated as meeting the JASO-MA standard is destructive to KZ clutches.

Good luck with your bike. Ed

Hey everyone. My name is Josh and I just picked up my first KZ project. I was given a J model engine that had been previously used in midget car racing so has been bored out and is actually in great shape. I wound up picking up a 1982 LTD frame for a steal.

Plans so far:
I will be running a ZRX swing arm, 900rr forks and 900rr wheels all around. The plan is to build a modern ELR.

Problems so far: I have a MKII tank that will of course not fit. I have been able to source everything else including the correct tail but cannot find a tank to fit the frame. The only thing I know to do is take a shaft tank and massage it to fit as I refuse to cut up or beat on a MKII tank that is in such good shape.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. This isn't my first build. I have a 1981 Honda CB750F that I've done a lot to so I'm used to what it takes to make things fit. I will also mention that I could be persuaded to let go of that MKII tank.

Sorry for the long post without pics. I will try to get them up soon. If I need to introduce myself more formally in the intro forums let me know. I don't want to step on any toes right off the bat!!

Thanks for looking and thanks in advance for any help.

Badly, beautiful bike! Yes this is an opportunity to "further develope" a wonderfully crafted bike.
This mishap is just fine with me. I can only assume it hurts TK11B40 more than me.
Don't worry TK, the bike will get what it deserves to be right.

What tk11b40 said, I use accidents as an excuse to make the bike better. For example, in 2010 I did a "spare no expense" re-build of my KZ650, it came out beautiful. However there were items that bugged me that I did not consider until after it was finished. I rode it for less than 500 miles and got into an accident on the I-14 to I-5 interchange in California, (Stupid cell phone users). That accident totaled the bike, I dragged the bike home and re-built it again but this time I fixed everything that bugged me and now it's exactly what I have always wanted. Just don't get bumbed out by it and move on.
2010 re-build, pre-crash

500 miles later, crash

2012 re-build

The triple tree is most likely Die Cast, therefore very difficult to weld. I have a good friend who has tig welded die cast for me in the past and been successful. Welding is a strong possibility. The otehr problem is getting the steering stem pressed out of the clamp, which should be done at a good shop. The triple clamp will need to be warmed, then press out the stem. The stem was built by Kossman.... $$$$$$$$$$ ! do not damage that while trying to weld or press it out of the clamp. I think it was somewhere between 250 and 400 clams. Its custom made by Kossman.

Can you send or past a photo of the damage?
When you come over the hill to pick up the tank you should stop by, we can figure out how to fix the steering stop, and possibly make it better in the process.

I can also measure thee triple clamp on the CMM and reverse engineer it. Then we can talk with my programmer to see what he would want to machine one out of billet.

Do not get discouraged, these things happen and are often a chance to make the bike better.

Yes I have spoken with Gary. He is happy to repaint the tank. I will take it off this week end and drain the fuel and mail it to him. i will go up there to pick it up when it is done.
I was thinking a fix for the stops might be to tap little bolts into the lower triple tree and just screw little bolts into to them. Thoughts?
Or welding material to the triple tree and getting it powder coated again.
I had to send the counter sprocket back to Ut so they can get the spacing correct for the 530 chain.
Also as long as the rear wheel is off I am getting a new tire.
Finally getting the bar ends opened up a bit to fit bar end mirrors.

Next up a Corbin seat and a steering damper.