Search Results (Searched for: gs swing arm)
Cool Vintage KZ900/1000 Seat! was created by z1kzonly
04 Sep 2023 10:15
z1kzonly
Hi Ronnie. Yes I do have it for sale.
It does have a FB marketplace ad. And I think I joined the KZ market, the one Steve hangs out in.
I was asking $500. No Title of course. But, for a frame sitting! It's real nice, NO Rust Rot. Has a nice frontend. The caliper looks nice & clean. I have the swing arm, the rear caliper and a nice set of OEM shocks. pedal and rear master cylinder there, plunger moves. ( I just took pics this week) I was going to eBay the shocks but they suit this roller better. Gauges look OK, they need paint resto! Battery box and wiring seem complete? I might have some other items to go with?
Been busy lately with a lot of projects.
But, I think that's a lot for $500.
I'll ad some more pictures later.
Thanks for your interest.
Marty in Buffalo
It does have a FB marketplace ad. And I think I joined the KZ market, the one Steve hangs out in.
I was asking $500. No Title of course. But, for a frame sitting! It's real nice, NO Rust Rot. Has a nice frontend. The caliper looks nice & clean. I have the swing arm, the rear caliper and a nice set of OEM shocks. pedal and rear master cylinder there, plunger moves. ( I just took pics this week) I was going to eBay the shocks but they suit this roller better. Gauges look OK, they need paint resto! Battery box and wiring seem complete? I might have some other items to go with?
Been busy lately with a lot of projects.
But, I think that's a lot for $500.
I'll ad some more pictures later.
Thanks for your interest.
Marty in Buffalo
Replied by Wookie58 on topic And finally, Wookie's 82 begins !
02 Sep 2023 12:57 - 02 Sep 2023 12:59
Wookie58
Been out there doing my thing again today, having put the back wheel in and out a few times it struck me there must be an easier way. I am sure you guys all have your own methods but when I earned my living with spanners in a dealership we had special tools and assembly jigs for all manner of jobs. What I learnt was the job was invariably easier and quicker if you used these items the manufacturer provides. Applying this logic I have put together the "Wookie wheel install kit"
The two brackets just bolt to the "stand bobbins" on the GSXR swingarm. I then cut a spare Bandit axle to the same width as the wheel assembly so that I can fully assembly the back wheel on the floor (calliper, spacers etc) with the "assembly shaft installed.
Then I can just drop the assembly onto the brackets and slide the axle in which pushes the assembly shaft out the other side, wheel in in seconds with no struggling and no damage
Then I can just drop the assembly onto the brackets and slide the axle in which pushes the assembly shaft out the other side, wheel in in seconds with no struggling and no damage
Wookie58
This month we are staying in the USA for Steve’s (Skidmark) stunning KZ750. This bike has an extensive build thread which is well worth a read if you haven’t seen it, over to Steven.
I have been friends with the original owner since the early 80's. We met at a mutual employer since we were both motorcyclists we became friends, and riding buddies. After 35 years of friendship, he was about to retire and move out of state. He had parked the bike alongside of his garage and quit riding it in 1991 for unknown reasons. And there the bike sat for 28 years. I asked him what he was going to do with it, and he volunteered to give it to me for free as a retirement gift if I was willing to haul it away (free is always a great starting point but it doesn’t stay that way for long !!) I had found my first retirement project! Bound and determined to rescue this motorcycle, I set off on the journey of frame-off restoration/resto-mod. After cleaning the crud off and forging a clear vision of where it was going, It took 3-1/2 years of work to bring it back to life, with nothing left untouched. I was a big road race fan, so the project turned into a 80's superbike theme, with a nod to one of my favourite riders - Eddie Lawson. The original swingarm has been braced and the front end replaced with one from a CBR600RR, to allow the suspension to work to it’s best the frame has also been significantly braced. The motor is fully rebuilt with high comp pistons etc and the stock carbs fully rebuilt. This is Steve’s vision of a 750cc version of the KZ1000 ELR!
I have been friends with the original owner since the early 80's. We met at a mutual employer since we were both motorcyclists we became friends, and riding buddies. After 35 years of friendship, he was about to retire and move out of state. He had parked the bike alongside of his garage and quit riding it in 1991 for unknown reasons. And there the bike sat for 28 years. I asked him what he was going to do with it, and he volunteered to give it to me for free as a retirement gift if I was willing to haul it away (free is always a great starting point but it doesn’t stay that way for long !!) I had found my first retirement project! Bound and determined to rescue this motorcycle, I set off on the journey of frame-off restoration/resto-mod. After cleaning the crud off and forging a clear vision of where it was going, It took 3-1/2 years of work to bring it back to life, with nothing left untouched. I was a big road race fan, so the project turned into a 80's superbike theme, with a nod to one of my favourite riders - Eddie Lawson. The original swingarm has been braced and the front end replaced with one from a CBR600RR, to allow the suspension to work to it’s best the frame has also been significantly braced. The motor is fully rebuilt with high comp pistons etc and the stock carbs fully rebuilt. This is Steve’s vision of a 750cc version of the KZ1000 ELR!
Kelly E
Nice lathe. I acquired an old Montgomery Ward 48" lathe from a friend. It came with a bunch of tooling I don't know what it's for or how to use it. I know that the original owner used to make guns with it. We rewired it because it was a little bit sketchy. It's saved our butts a couple of times already. Recently I made a set of Delrin swingarm bushings for the 78' KL 250. Someday I'll learn how to use more of the tooling.
Replied by Wookie58 on topic Kz project
30 Aug 2023 01:01
Wookie58
OK so firstly all of the below is based on what I can see in the pictures you posted and is not criticism but rather "good willed observation"
The front end geometry looks very radical, dropping the forks through the yolks will definitely help, the below calculator would be useful to check trail etc
RB Racing Rake and Trail Calculator (rbracing-rsr.com)
It doesn't look like there is much steering lock before the yolk hits the tank (have you welded new "lock stops" on the next to prevent this?
Have you removed the springs and let the bike sit on the bump stops to check clearance (front wheel looks like it may hit the exhaust at full compression)
Also with the rear remove spring and check clearance (chain is very close to the frame and looks like it may hit the protruding bolt above it)
That much "jack up" transferring the weight onto the front along with the radical geometry is likely to make the bike very unstable and also make the rear end very light which could be unpredictable (if you want that "90's streetfighter" look it may be better to modify the seat rails on the frame rather than "jack" the suspension that far)
As a result of the extreme "jack up" it looks like the chain will eat the swingarm above the pivot.
What swingarm are you using (looks Honda or Triumph)- the calliper position doesn't look correct (normally at the bottom) as a result the routing of the rear brake hose looks very close to the wheel, also if "flapping" unsupported the flexi pipe will fracture and dump brake fluid on the rear tyre !!!
Is the picture of the front sprocket the final install? it looks like the nut is barely on and there is no locking device to stop it coming loose (which can only end badly)
Hopefully you will receive all of the above in a positive vein (it is after all only my opinion)
The front end geometry looks very radical, dropping the forks through the yolks will definitely help, the below calculator would be useful to check trail etc
RB Racing Rake and Trail Calculator (rbracing-rsr.com)
It doesn't look like there is much steering lock before the yolk hits the tank (have you welded new "lock stops" on the next to prevent this?
Have you removed the springs and let the bike sit on the bump stops to check clearance (front wheel looks like it may hit the exhaust at full compression)
Also with the rear remove spring and check clearance (chain is very close to the frame and looks like it may hit the protruding bolt above it)
That much "jack up" transferring the weight onto the front along with the radical geometry is likely to make the bike very unstable and also make the rear end very light which could be unpredictable (if you want that "90's streetfighter" look it may be better to modify the seat rails on the frame rather than "jack" the suspension that far)
As a result of the extreme "jack up" it looks like the chain will eat the swingarm above the pivot.
What swingarm are you using (looks Honda or Triumph)- the calliper position doesn't look correct (normally at the bottom) as a result the routing of the rear brake hose looks very close to the wheel, also if "flapping" unsupported the flexi pipe will fracture and dump brake fluid on the rear tyre !!!
Is the picture of the front sprocket the final install? it looks like the nut is barely on and there is no locking device to stop it coming loose (which can only end badly)
Hopefully you will receive all of the above in a positive vein (it is after all only my opinion)
Starting out on KZ 750 B was created by CaitKier
27 Aug 2023 13:15
CaitKier
Good day all.
I recently purchased a KZ 750 B which is an import from the States. It was not running and had/has various bits missing. So far I have taken the engine out to clean properly, frame has gone for powder coating and some new bits bought. VM 34 carbs and Daikin 2 in to 1. Damaged the swing arm taking the needle roller bearings outer casings out. I have some bobber bits that I got with the bike and am not yet sure what/whether I am going for original regarding indicators, gauges etc. I rode a KZ 750 E for years and although not in the class of GSX R and the like it was great bike. I will post photos and progress as I go and would appreciate any advice on points replacement, whether porting the head is a good idea etc.. My other bikes are Triumph ST 1050, BMW R1100RS and Fireblade.
I recently purchased a KZ 750 B which is an import from the States. It was not running and had/has various bits missing. So far I have taken the engine out to clean properly, frame has gone for powder coating and some new bits bought. VM 34 carbs and Daikin 2 in to 1. Damaged the swing arm taking the needle roller bearings outer casings out. I have some bobber bits that I got with the bike and am not yet sure what/whether I am going for original regarding indicators, gauges etc. I rode a KZ 750 E for years and although not in the class of GSX R and the like it was great bike. I will post photos and progress as I go and would appreciate any advice on points replacement, whether porting the head is a good idea etc.. My other bikes are Triumph ST 1050, BMW R1100RS and Fireblade.
swingarm question was created by Rusty B1
27 Aug 2023 11:06
Rusty B1
Hi-
I have a 1976 KZ 750 B1 twin.
My question is- Are the sleeve (p/n 42036-1014) and needle bearings (p/n 92046-1115) from the B3 and B4 models a direct fit replacement to my bike
( without replacing the swingarm itself. My bike came fitted with the OEM steel bushings and matching sleeves.
Thanks in advance for any help offered.
Rusty
I have a 1976 KZ 750 B1 twin.
My question is- Are the sleeve (p/n 42036-1014) and needle bearings (p/n 92046-1115) from the B3 and B4 models a direct fit replacement to my bike
( without replacing the swingarm itself. My bike came fitted with the OEM steel bushings and matching sleeves.
Thanks in advance for any help offered.
Rusty
Kelly E
Today we put the carbs back on my 74' Honda CB 550 K0. It still has the stock airbox so installing carbs ain't no picnic. We built this bike in 2020 from a beat up roller with the motor on the floor and the top end in boxes. The PO cleaned off the old head gasket with some kind of spinning disc and managed to put hard to see low spots. We had cleaned it up and missed a dimple near #3 during assembly. It held for a few rides before #3 was at 65psi so we pulled the head off and took .004" off the head and .002" off the cylinders.
The bike is #449 of the first 500 CB 550 K models when they changed from the 500-4 to the 550-4. I didn't alter the frame to build the bike because of that. Even the seat still uses the original hinges and lock, I did alter the seat pan. We made a few improvements like converting to needle bearings in the swingarm, tapered roller bearings in the steering head, clip-ons with a 70mm rise, custom made rearsets built with all Honda parts, custom seat, Progressive fork springs and Hagon shocks. The goal was to make it look like a cafe bike built in the 70's.
We'll probably sell it as soon as we have it sorted out and reliable.
The bike is #449 of the first 500 CB 550 K models when they changed from the 500-4 to the 550-4. I didn't alter the frame to build the bike because of that. Even the seat still uses the original hinges and lock, I did alter the seat pan. We made a few improvements like converting to needle bearings in the swingarm, tapered roller bearings in the steering head, clip-ons with a 70mm rise, custom made rearsets built with all Honda parts, custom seat, Progressive fork springs and Hagon shocks. The goal was to make it look like a cafe bike built in the 70's.
We'll probably sell it as soon as we have it sorted out and reliable.
Replied by SWest on topic Long-term rear brake issue -- possibly resolved?
17 Aug 2023 11:19
SWest
Oh sorry about that. It's in the sig line too. Basically I started with a 1981 J1 frame that the PO had hacked up (cut off all the mounting brackets, even those for the seat, for no apparent reason). I found another scrapper for a 1981 LTD where they had chopped off the front of the frame, so I made my own cuts and welded the two together to make one completely intact frame again. And since I had a ton of LTD parts now, I decided to upgrade the bike. Sorting out the wiring harness was the worst, both of them had multiple splices but somehow I got lucky and was able to piece together a complete LTD harness. There was a small difference in the steering angle because I have a J1 frame with LTD forks, but with the help of folks here we worked out that it should actually make it more stable on the highway although it increase my turning radius in the parking lot. So yeah, it's a frankenstein. I'm still considering turning it into a single-seater though, my legs feel cramped up but I'm not sure I have the energy to do a custom job like that.
Didn't see that.
From one Mad Scientist to another with a Franken bike yours looks pretty good. After the wreck I gave up the thought of restoring the bike to a original 1975 Z1b and decided to make it my own. Having a salvage title was the game changer.
In the 80's they weren't as valued as they are now and I was happy to have it back on the street again. Parts here parts there the bike became what I always wanted it to be. The biggest improvement was the longer KZP swing arm. Only 1 1/2" but it became more stable at a ton and still handles like it use to despite the larger turning radius.
It will never be like it was but it's all mine.
BTW she can still go where most HD's wont.
Steve
Rolf1976_KZ900
Hello i have been very busy so hasent had time to reply but now i have checked some more stuff on the bikei only had the bike for 8 days so far and trying to get as much of information i can.The seller provided mewith a workshop manual and 2 great books about the kz models so that was nice.The bike has been very little usedthe last eight years, but had a big service 2019 done at a workshop i found resiepts of that.
Hardrockminer : thanks for info on the coils looks like they are just placed oposite than normal then.when i measured the secondary resistance im not sure but i think the multimeter knob was at 2000 ohmim no good at electrical stuff .But i know that when placing the multimeterknob at different ohm settings i gota open line reading.I have now tested all sparkplugs and they all have good spark with 5 ohm plugcaps .I tested if the spark was better if i installed a 1 ohm plugcap and it looked better,but i only bought 1 cap to test and dont know if itis healty to install 1 ohm caps with the electronic ignition that is installed on the bike?? anyway the bike now runs great .After running the bike for some days nowand had a look at the sparkplugs i did some minor adjustment to the fuel mixture screws because it was running lean on cyl 4 and rich on cyl 1. turned cyl 1 a quarter (15 minutes) in and cyl 4 a quarter out. .The bike runs good now i will check the plugs again in some weeks.You are right the carbs are from a 1977 z1000A1.
Wookie58 : Thanks for teaching how to measure the volt to the coils the proper way. When i got the low 9.88vreading i connected to ground on the cylhead.Now after using the negative batterypost the reading was much better.Also cleaned up almost all electrical connections and used a little dielectric grease on them. several had a little rust or green deposits.Thans for the link to the relay fix i bought a set og headlight encance relay wiringloom thinkin i could use that to the coils,but now i dont think i need to install that.
SWest : I dont know what brand electronic ignition is installed i post some pics .The bike has a acid battery.By the way yesterday while doing a oilchange and stuff i found the venttube for the battery was only about 3 inch long.That will make acid drip on the frame so i replaced that with a long tube that goes all the way downto under the rearswing arm .Is that any issuse with doing that ? i mean maybe the long tube will make a vacumwhen riding sucking acid out of the battery??
Hardrockminer : thanks for info on the coils looks like they are just placed oposite than normal then.when i measured the secondary resistance im not sure but i think the multimeter knob was at 2000 ohmim no good at electrical stuff .But i know that when placing the multimeterknob at different ohm settings i gota open line reading.I have now tested all sparkplugs and they all have good spark with 5 ohm plugcaps .I tested if the spark was better if i installed a 1 ohm plugcap and it looked better,but i only bought 1 cap to test and dont know if itis healty to install 1 ohm caps with the electronic ignition that is installed on the bike?? anyway the bike now runs great .After running the bike for some days nowand had a look at the sparkplugs i did some minor adjustment to the fuel mixture screws because it was running lean on cyl 4 and rich on cyl 1. turned cyl 1 a quarter (15 minutes) in and cyl 4 a quarter out. .The bike runs good now i will check the plugs again in some weeks.You are right the carbs are from a 1977 z1000A1.
Wookie58 : Thanks for teaching how to measure the volt to the coils the proper way. When i got the low 9.88vreading i connected to ground on the cylhead.Now after using the negative batterypost the reading was much better.Also cleaned up almost all electrical connections and used a little dielectric grease on them. several had a little rust or green deposits.Thans for the link to the relay fix i bought a set og headlight encance relay wiringloom thinkin i could use that to the coils,but now i dont think i need to install that.
SWest : I dont know what brand electronic ignition is installed i post some pics .The bike has a acid battery.By the way yesterday while doing a oilchange and stuff i found the venttube for the battery was only about 3 inch long.That will make acid drip on the frame so i replaced that with a long tube that goes all the way downto under the rearswing arm .Is that any issuse with doing that ? i mean maybe the long tube will make a vacumwhen riding sucking acid out of the battery??
Displaying 121 - 130 out of 7254 results.