So I took a few years off and now I'm finally getting back to this project. I started putting 03 gsxr forks and swingarm on this bike but I wanted more, so I looked around for a wrecked bike and 2 says ago I picked up an 06 gsxr 750 for 600$. I tore it apart and kept what I needed. Everything is mocked up at the moment but things are looking pretty good.

Its a ROLLER.
Also got the body work in sealer.
I ended up counter sinking some 3mm allen screws for the chain slider. I sunk them below the plastic height so hopefully they'll be protected a little bit. The more i thought about it and it seemed like rivets would be easily ground down because the sit above the surface.

Much to my chagrin the new wheel is 3 lbs heavier than the stock wheel and tire - which was bald enough that the new wheel probably is more like only 2 lbs heavier than the stock. Its a push on overall weight though because the swing arm made up the difference. The geometry is a little more aggressive than i would like as well.I didn't account for how much height the mount on the swingarm would add to the "shock to axle" length. With both these things happening it seems like the perfect excuse to swap for something like a aluminim 17" rim with a 130/70/17 tire and a stainless spoke kit. :whistle:

I pulled the dual disk setup off my roached KZ650 that some asshole torched a couple months ago. The fire burnt the MC but everything else was untouched. Its funny, This dual setup was on my first KZ1000, that i then put on my second KZ1000, then on my kz650, and now its going on this bike. At least a little bit of a phoenix will rise from those ashes.

I never seem to have any free time to work on the bikes these days. I did make a little progress this week and started assembling everything. The motor is in the frame, the new motor mount bolts are super snug and made getting the engine in there a challenge. I still need to make the mount plates.

I put new bearings in the swingarm, added a grease fitting, and I started the chain slider. After a couple failed attempts I got a sheet of Delrin to melt over a piece of the tube I capped the swingarm with. It ended up being a bit thinner than i would have liked but it turned out pretty nice. I need to mount it to the arm next. Should I rivet it or drill and tap for some counter sunk screws?

750Kruzer wrote: When people join the forum simply to ask how to chop-up an otherwise perfectly good (stock) bike to make it a bobber and flip it (sell it)

That's prolly the top of the list for "things that grind my gears"

I agree on the whole practice that's so common currently of bobbing, chopping cafe racing and building a Brat bike, whatever they are, that seems to be the current trend. Where the big KZ's are concerned you really can't improve on the "beauty" the factory created and I certainly understand the idea even less of removing rear suspension etc. to make the things more archaic and less functional and destroy the handling they had. I do admire the builds, if you start with a pretty ratty bike, with upside down forks, different swing arms, brakes and suspension that improve the bike in line with what it was designed to be.

It drives me even more mad on the classic Triumphs, I'm sorry but IMO there is no way to improve on the styling of the original bike here, so your chopper etc. is worthless, other than for its original parts, it isn't worth lots more than an original bike like you have it advertised for.

Just showing off the photos to friend number one....

Awesome !!

I put 17" wire wheels and radial tires on my '73 Z1-900. Love the handling improvement this change made along with Race Tech cartridge emulators/Race Tech springs, GS1100E swingarm, and Performance Works rear shocks. But I braced the frame and used an oversize and a stronger engine bolt kit as well to go along with the above mods.

The bike certainly sits lower but I expected this. Using the centerstand can be a challenge now however.

Thanks DoctoRot for the input. I have been wondering about the 17' on both ends, largely I knew i'd want to get more out of the cornering performance so I'm game for looking into anything that will get me that while lowering the weight of the bike overall. I have the option through Cognito moto to run a fully GSX-R converted front hub with a newly laced wheel between 17 and 19 inches. I guess I was going the direction of standardizing to the size of the donor fork rather than standardizing the new technology to closer-to-stock dimensions I.e. 18 or 19" wheels for the ground clearance. Also I will definitely be changing the rear suspension, just hoping to not re-do the swing arm in entirety so I'm looking at between 13.5" rear from progressive, to a 14.30" from fox to a full 15" from burly. Also, thanks for the frame bracing suggestions, I'll start digging on finding that!

Ive done a full front/back conversion on my CSR1000. Ive fitted a complete ZX9R front end and on the back,a GSXR600 swingarm with a Bandit600 wheel. I have the original tyres that came with the wheels when I bought them as Im still busy with the build. I will fit new rubber before hitting the road. Both ends are 17inch.
My geometry has totally changed from the original and I have no idea how its going to behave on the road. Ive been told that Ill have quicker steering!!
and ground clearance is a concern with the upsy dupsy forks.
With the major changes to the geometry from the conversion,I dont think tyre size is going to make a big difference.If youve got a GSXR front,I would say just put the GSXR wheel in it. Itll save you a lot of work.Same with the discs and calipers. If you try to mix and match,youll just be giving yourself more work.
My back tyre size was dictated by chain run and tyre/frame clearance. I think Ive got a 150 or maybe 160. Cant remember off hand.

redhawk, you are right - the boss is about 1.5mm. I finally got around to looking at this again today.

It looks like I have clearance either way. I am in the middle of fitting new axle spacers on my GS swingarm swap and it looks like putting the boss to the inside will help me center the wheel so i'll probably go with that.

One thing I noticed is that the stamp indicating the number of sprocket teeth is on the same side as the boss and not visible when the boss is on the inside. While this is not a tragedy, I do wonder why this stamp is not on the other side so you can see it when the sprocket is mounted.

Thanks,
-John

If you plan to work on it here's some information that should prove helpful....

WARNING! Do not even try to use Phillips screwdrivers on the Kawasaki cross head screws. Despite their appearance they are not Phillips screws. They are Japanese Industrial Standard (JIS) screws. The tips of Phillips screwdrivers are too long & pointed to allow the 4 blades of the screwdriver to properly engage the screws, so when you apply force the screw head slots will deform and look like crap. The fact is that Phillips screws were deliberately designed to have the screwdriver bit "cam out." This was done to prevent production line assembly from over-tightening, stripping, or breaking the screws. JIS screws do not have this problem. A proper fitting JIS bit can tighten a JIS screw to and beyond the torque spec without camming out. Here's the good news - you can easily modify standard Phillips screwdriver tips to fit the JIS screws.

I have ground down the tips of DeWalt #2 and DeWalt #3 Phillips to make them fit JIS screws. The large crosshead screws on the cases take modified #3 bits (or genuine #3 JIS bits). To modify the DeWalt bits you need to grind the very tip a little, then test fit, then grind a little more and test fit, etc. until the bit no longer "rocks" back and forth in the screwhead. Picture 1 below shows how a DeWalt #3 bit fits the case screws of my KZ650 after being ground properly. The #2 DeWalt bits can be modified the same way to fit smaller JIS screws. Pictures 2 and 3 below shows DeWalt #2 and #3 modified bits.

I did find a place that sells authentic JIS bits. They don't list the #3 bit, but if you contact them they can provide the #3 JIS bits even though they are not listed on the website. These folks were very easy to work with, and the authentic bits do work great. Here's their site:

www.rjrcooltools.com/shop_item_detail.cfm?subcat_ID=89

Pictures 4 & 5 below show a comparison between my home made modified bits with the authentic JIS bits.

PICTURE 1

PICTURE 2

PICTURE 3

PICTURE 4

PICTURE 5

Before reaching for that wrench or ratchet consider the following. The bolts are steel, but your engine and front forks are aluminum. The bolts are much tougher than the aluminum and if over tightened will strip the aluminum threads. Although these can be repaired, preventing damage by applying proper torque will save you grief, time, and money. Tightening fasteners properly requires torque wrenches. Various vendors, including Snap-on, CDI, Sears, etc., market torque wrenches. The two most popular types are the bar type and micrometer type. Either will work, but the micrometer type is a bit easier to use, especially if you are tightening several fasteners with the same torque - such as cylinder head covers. You will need a torque wrench calibrated in INCH POUNDS for many of the bolts. You will also need a torque wrench calibrated in FOOT POUNDS for the larger bolts. Don't try to use the foot pounds wrench on the smaller bolts as it will not be sensitive enough at low torque settings to provide accurate torque. There are many fasteners that require low torque. These include such things as 6mm oil pan bolts, cylinder head cover bolts, etc. for which the torque in 61-78 inch pounds. These low torque bolts require a wrench that is accurate at low settings and this wrench should be graduated in inch pounds. In addition, there are numerous high torque fasteners such as the front axle nuts (51 - 65 foot pounds) or swing arm pivot shaft nuts (58 - 87 foot pounds). These require a wrench that is accurate at higher settings; this wrench should be graduated in foot pounds. Using the proper torque wrenches to correctly tighten fasteners will help prevent damage and contribute to a safe bike. The Kawasaki Service Manual will list the various torque specs for the bolts. I suggest you get the manual before buying the torque wrenches so you can decide which wrenches best meet the torque specs.

Consider buying a can of Kroil penetrating oil and use it to soak stubborn fasteners for a couple days before trying to loosen them. Remember, the original screws and bolts were installed on your bike when Jimmy Carter was President, so many of them may be hard to remove. Kroil can be bought online, at guns shows, and at some other venues. Ed