- Posts: 640
- Thank you received: 64
You know what really "grinds my gears"?
- redhawk4
- Offline
- User
1978 KZ1000A2 Wiseco 1075 kit
1977 KZ650B1
1973 Triumph Tiger TR7V
1968 BSA Victor Special 441
2015 Triumph Thunderbird LT
1980 Suzuki SP400
Old enough to know better, still too young to care
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- 750Kruzer
- Topic Author
- Offline
- User
- Posts: 89
- Thank you received: 7
That's prolly the top of the list for "things that grind my gears"
1983 KZ750 LTD Twin K1
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- SWest
- Offline
- Sustaining Member
- 10 22 2014
- Posts: 23029
- Thank you received: 2758
Steve
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- zukdave
- Offline
- User
- Posts: 1685
- Thank you received: 229
750Kruzer wrote: chop-up an otherwise perfectly good (stock) bike to make it a bobber
Whats wrong with bobber's I got an 87 ZG1000 bobber.
1980 KZ650 F1
ZX750A1 motor.
Wiseco 810cc kit.
Zukiworks racing ported head.
VM 29 smooth bore's.
Dyna 2000 Ign. w/Dyna mini coil's
APE cylinder stud's and nut's.
APE valve spring's.
APE Track King clutch.
V/H KZ1000 sidewinder.
3.5x18 laced to a KZ1000 disk hub.
150/60/18 Shinko 006 Podium.
63" wheel base.
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- KZQ
- Offline
- Administrator
- Walking Behind the Corn May Not Be All That!
- Posts: 4836
- Thank you received: 1397
rstnick wrote: I believe if you stop at a light that has these magnetic sensors in the ground, you need to stop your bike on the outline of the box, or if there is a middle line, that's good too.
There's a wire running in the box they cut into the road.
Put your bikes right over that wire, and the circuit will sense your bike, using magnetism,
The magnetic field will change when the metal of your bike is over the wire.
This is what I've read, but hasn't worked well in real life.
Wait a few moments, checking it's clear, and go.
The coil in the pavement detects the magnetic core that is the vehicle moving above it. Rstnick is also correct, it's better to get over to the side of the loop to affect the bigger portion of the wire. Another trick I use before I take a chance and jump the light is to kick the bike up into neutral, lower the side stand and touch it to the pavement right at the loop. This has always worked for me.
Now for what "Grinds my Gears".
I live in the black ice capitol of North America. During the winter season about half of the vehicles on the road have studded tires. These arsewholes, who would do better to learn how to drive, eat away the pavement so badly that all of our roads have well worn stud grooves in them. Nearer to intersections they are truly grooves but out on the regular highways the pavement has two swales worn into it that are thirty inches wide and up to three inches deep. Even in the summer time these swales are the pits because every "Outside, Inside, Outside" line a biker rides involves crossing from low to high and back to low, TWICE. The problem is so bad that the pavement at every intersection has to be replaced every two years and, you guessed it, the sensor loops have to be redone as well. It's not unusual to see bits of the wire sticking out of the pavement where the studs have done their worst. Because we don't have enough political gumption to address the damage that the studs do the Department of Transportation has gone to optically triggered signals as a more economical alternative to hysteresis loops.
I loath studded tires and the fools who rely on them.
There. I feel better!
Bill
www.KZ1300.com
Riders:
1968 BSA 441 Shooting Star, 1970 BSA 650 Lightning, 1974 W3, 1976 KZ900, 1979 KZ750 Twin, 1979 KZ750 Twin Trike, 1981 KZ1300, 1982 KZ1100 Spectre, 2000 Valkyrie, 2009 Yamaha Roadliner S. 1983 GL 1100
Projects:
1985 ZN1300
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- redhawk4
- Offline
- User
- Posts: 640
- Thank you received: 64
750Kruzer wrote: When people join the forum simply to ask how to chop-up an otherwise perfectly good (stock) bike to make it a bobber and flip it (sell it)
That's prolly the top of the list for "things that grind my gears"
I agree on the whole practice that's so common currently of bobbing, chopping cafe racing and building a Brat bike, whatever they are, that seems to be the current trend. Where the big KZ's are concerned you really can't improve on the "beauty" the factory created and I certainly understand the idea even less of removing rear suspension etc. to make the things more archaic and less functional and destroy the handling they had. I do admire the builds, if you start with a pretty ratty bike, with upside down forks, different swing arms, brakes and suspension that improve the bike in line with what it was designed to be.
It drives me even more mad on the classic Triumphs, I'm sorry but IMO there is no way to improve on the styling of the original bike here, so your chopper etc. is worthless, other than for its original parts, it isn't worth lots more than an original bike like you have it advertised for.
1978 KZ1000A2 Wiseco 1075 kit
1977 KZ650B1
1973 Triumph Tiger TR7V
1968 BSA Victor Special 441
2015 Triumph Thunderbird LT
1980 Suzuki SP400
Old enough to know better, still too young to care
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.