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Replied by Uncle Freddy on topic CR Special Carbs / '83 650 / occasional single carb fuel leak ?

27 Jun 2023 07:38 - 27 Jun 2023 07:44
Uncle Freddy's Avatar Uncle Freddy
ok, I'll try to stay on point for to your reply & questions....so, there are 2 types of piss gas from CRs I've experienced: 1) when the float completely sticks and gas pisses out of the 2 teeny upper vent holes on the back of the carb, literally shooting out almost to swingarm and 2) the carb fills with gas and gas pisses out of the bottom of the carb & air cleaner ......since I have removed & replaced the o-rings & needles, two times I have experienced the 2) type gas piss, and both times it was #3 carb (3rd carb in from left side, the one running richest) ......this is only happening at idle after I come back down from high Rs riding, and it stops as soon as I take off fast down the road ........gas tank, petcock filter, etc spotless, ultra clean .....I will be draining the bowls as you suggest, capturing the fuel and seeing if anything in fuel in bowls .....I'm also going to drop all 4 bowls and look across / measure float drops with bike level on center stand to see if they are all the same  ......when I had the rack off for the o-ring & needle replace, interior of carbs were ultra clean.....yes, B7ES standard / factory rec plug, but I have had major top end work (2nd over pistons & rings, A P E valve guides & springs, GPZ 750 cams, etc) so I run colder plug, the iridium BR8EIX ......questions:
can the pilot air screws be adjusted complete in / down / closed ? what do they do ? what air do they control ?
all of my rubber pieces on all 4 choke plungers are hard as rocks, guessing I should replace all 4 ? 
what jet having a speck of something in it would cause this at idle but then stop it once bike was flying down the road at high Rs ? 
can the teeny vent holes on the carbs and their venting chambers be clogged ? (I plan to blast carb cleaner into & down them and then blow them out with compressed air) 
lastly, I think I may send them off for this service: 




 

Replied by Warren3200gt on topic Safe speed in a Kz.

03 Jun 2023 23:51 - 04 Jun 2023 01:19
Warren3200gt's Avatar Warren3200gt
Assuming all bearings, wheels, swingarm, headrace, etc are good and correctly adjusted then if you've any stability issues it'll be due to tires/balance. 
Z1000'S  all had frames made from thicker walled steel tube and don't need steering dampers unlike early 900's and don't suffer from frame flex like they did.

Proviso, the surface your riding on is not full of pot holes! As pointed out by Dr G. 

Replied by Wookie58 on topic Bike of the Month.

31 May 2023 14:11 - 31 May 2023 14:12
Wookie58's Avatar Wookie58
If there was ever any doubt that KZR is a truly “global” forum then this stunner from Leonardo (MLMG) all the way from Uruguay should confirm it to be absolutely true. We have all struggled to obtain parts from time to time but when you read Leonardo’s story and see the insane import duties and laws preventing the import of used parts in his country then the end result is even more impressive. Every detail of this bike is exquisite but I especially like the unique use of “Gulf” colours in the paint scheme. I will leave Leonardo to tell the back story
I am originally from Montevideo, Uruguay, and I bought my motorcycle when I was 27 years old in 2007. Parts have always been hard to find and very expensive here, so you can imagine that it was not in the best condition, but at least it was running. I remember going to Kawasaki Uruguay in 2008 to buy the fuel purge key, which cost a whopping $250 at that time. In 2015, after returning from a trip through the country's interior, the motorcycle started making a loud noise from the timing chain, so I decided to remove the battery and stop using it. However, in 2019, I decided to start its restoration.(I have to mention that import duties here are 100% and it is not allowed to import used motorcycle parts).I started with the frame. I had the frame powder-coated and replaced the bearings and swingarm shaft. I also installed new shocks, as the original ones were of unknown origin. I replaced the axles with new stainless steel ones and installed new wheels. I rebuilt the front suspension. Additionally, I installed Kawasaki LTD fenders, as I liked their shorter and sportier look.While disassembling the engine, the first thing I noticed was that the timing chain guide was missing. As I continued to dismantle it, I couldn't find it anywhere, as it had been shredded and its remnants were blocking the crankshaft lubrication. Luckily, I didn't start the motorcycle again. I decided to replace all the engine bearings and install 72mm pistons, as the cylinders were oval-shaped. I also replaced the valves and valve guides on the cylinder head. Furthermore, I replaced the timing chain and gears, and almost all the screws with new stainless steel ones. I installed a new gear shifter mechanism. I installed an electronic ignition, new clutch plates, new Mikuni SR34 carburettors, and a Delkevic exhaust.I also did the painting myself, as I always liked the style of the Kawasaki Z1 Yellow Tiger, and decided to paint my motorcycle with that reference. I also bought a motorcycle lift, an air compressor, and various specialized tools to carry out the restoration of my motorcycle. It was a long and laborious process, but little by little, I replaced parts, improved components, and adjusted everything to work properly.After changing the engine bearings, pistons, valves, carburettors, and exhaust, the motorcycle began to take shape. The Z1 Yellow Tiger-style paint gave it a classic and sporty look that I loved. I also made sure that all the electrical systems were functioning properly, by installing a new wiring harness, voltage regulator, and appropriate controls. The brakes were also upgraded with new discs, rebuilt callipers, and a new rear master cylinder.Once everything was assembled and functioning correctly, it was exciting to see my restored motorcycle come back to life. After much effort, dedication, and investment of time and money in parts and tools, I finally could enjoy my fully restored motorcycle in Montevideo, Uruguay, despite the challenges of finding parts in my country.The restoration of my motorcycle was a challenging but rewarding project. I learned a lot about motorcycle mechanics, gained new skills and tools, and made new friends in the KZR community, and felt a great satisfaction seeing the final result of my hard work. Now I have a fully restored motorcycle that I can enjoy to the fullest in Montevideo, Uruguay, despite the challenges of finding parts in my country.

 

Replied by SWest on topic 1981 KZ1000 front fork bushing kit?

31 May 2023 10:13
SWest's Avatar SWest
That's quite a bit of offset.   Back in 75 me and Larry would see who could turn the tightest with feet on the pegs. I would win most of the time.   He was a short guy and would have to tippytoe at stoplights. We loved how the bikes would handle in tight areas but on the road at high speeds at 93MPH that wobble would come on. You could kinda feel it before it happened so I'd get above it or stay below it if I could. He was the first to have his frame gusseted and put on good shocks. Not having much money I did it myself and Miller suggested I go with a 16" rim to take some of the weight off the front end. I never did up till now. First thing was the 98 KZP swing arm that is 1 1/2" longer and heavier than the Z1 arm I had. That made a big difference but I lost a little of my tight steering. When I installed the alloy wheels I got from Vic the bike became steady as a rock at a ton.   It still feels a little light in the front end up there even with the brace but the 16" rear rim did seem to make it more stable. I see some fork emulators in my future. 
www.racetech.com/page/title/Emulators
Going with a smaller front wheel seems the wrong direction unless the rear matches the front then there's that clearance issue. 
As I said "you change one thing it changes other things" sometimes not in a good way. 
Steve

Replied by Wookie58 on topic Gs1100 swap gsxr wheel

14 May 2023 23:06
Wookie58's Avatar Wookie58
So when you say machining off the sprocket carrier wich part of the carrier gets the machining? Could someone post a picture? 
You will most likely need to remove material from the surface the sprocket sits on (this will involve shortening the sprocket mounting bolts as well) however you first need to mount the swingarm and wheel in the bike and centre the wheel, then fit the front sprocket. Only then can you accurately measure how much material to remove.

Replied by chris_heiges on topic Gs1100 swap gsxr wheel

13 May 2023 13:39
chris_heiges's Avatar chris_heiges
So this is where I’m at, gs1100 swing arm, I ordered the bandit 600 wheel(has the straight spokes), and I got a gs1100 axel.

The wheel is coming with the sprocket carrier, not a rotor. My next question.

I have the 2002 brake caliper. I’m not sure what the factory rear rotor size is on the 2002 kzp but do you think it might be possible to keep the kzp caliper and use the bandit rotor if the rotor diameters are close or same? Or should I plan to get the bandit caliper also?

Replied by Wookie58 on topic Gs1100 swap gsxr wheel

13 May 2023 12:29
Wookie58's Avatar Wookie58
With the bandit 600 wheel what year did you use? And does the sprocket line up well?

also if this other swing arm is wide enough would the gsxr wheel have sprocket alignment issues?
I think the wheel is a 2001 (just look for one with straight spokes rather than angled which is the earlier wheel) the sprocket carrier will require machining and you will need an off set front sprocket. I think this is the best option with the GS Swingarm if you are running "twin shocks" the GSXR swingarm is not symmetrical so brings additional challenges with shock alignment (I am using mono shock with the GSXR swing arm)

Replied by zed1015 on topic Gs1100 swap gsxr wheel

13 May 2023 00:15 - 13 May 2023 03:32
zed1015's Avatar zed1015
Once you start swapping wheels you are going to have to align the chain and sprockets.
Usually with more modern wheels an offset front sprocket is often needed and very likely the rear sprocket carrier will need shaving to bring the chain run in line.
As an example when fitting a 5.5 inch ZXR750 rim (180 tyre) to a Z900/1000 ( the widest without frame mods )  the front sprocket needs an offset of 5/8ths and the rear carrier shaving by 8mm.
This is to allow the chain to just clear the inside of the frame and the edge of the tyre.
Obviously for this width of rim a wider swingarm needs to be used.
If using a Suzuki GSXR or Bandit arm these are slimmer at the pivot than the KZ frame so they just need spacers to take up the width and the spindle size differences addressing.
You may also have to modify the rear footrest and exhaust mounts as the wider arm is likely fo foul them. 
If you want some pointers and ideas of what you may be getting into have a read through one of my current build threads over on the ZOWNERSGB forum. -
Double the troublezz. AMA style Racecrafters Z1000 and Moriwaki Z1R Turbo. - Z1OwnersClub GB
 

Replied by chris_heiges on topic Gs1100 swap gsxr wheel

12 May 2023 17:24 - 12 May 2023 17:28
chris_heiges's Avatar chris_heiges
With the bandit 600 wheel what year did you use? And does the sprocket line up well?

also if this other swing arm is wide enough would the gsxr wheel have sprocket alignment issues?

Replied by chris_heiges on topic Gs1100 swap gsxr wheel

11 May 2023 17:32
chris_heiges's Avatar chris_heiges
So I’ve got this other swingarm that I’m not sure what it came off of and it has no shock mounts that I can tell. Maybe this one would be a better candidate?

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