Thorrn wrote: I would love some technical veteran builder guidance I want to replace my swing arm with a mono shock I want to know how to accomplish this street scrambler build My vision is a post-apocalyptic RAT street/scrambler something that is build for performance in all conditions or built for versatility of terrain and changes in a post apocalyptic urban/any where environment thoughts suggestions and Ideas appreciated need feedback this is my first build I have the vision and the drive just need so tech advice thanks

Greetings!

I think I understand what you are envisioning for your build.
There were some wild looking, multi-terrain, enduro-on-steroids kind of scramblers (Ha! I didn't know there was a name for this styling ) at the recent [ Hand Built Show in Austin, Texas ] .
I saw some creations there, that used bigger horse power bikes typically associated with speed but with gnarly, knobby, wheels, high suspensions and for the most part they followed the so-called "rat look", although my first thought upon seeing them was "steampunk inspired". Honestly, I thought the concept was very cool, even though I have no idea how or what was done to the likes of 500cc up to 1000cc motorcycles. BMW, Ducati, Indian etc. All kinds of manufacturer's motorcycles were used.
Most dramatically (personal opinion), the big/wide, wheel and tire sizes were close to the same front to back and of the off road/traction format. The suspensions high usually but not always - some leaned more toward a tracker look with street tires and lower suspensions. Gone were expensive, shiny paint schemes, even while you could see tons of hours were poured into the finished look. One bike looked like it grew out of a mid 80's Suzi Katana - hand welded, multi faceted fuel tank was all raw metal and rusty (post apocolyptic looking as you had mentioned) with slippery looking, 2-stroke stinger exhaust on old bias ply tires.

Anyway, I'm sure there are a few guys here that can help you out with this pursuit. There are a few guys that have done the extended trailing arm/mono shock conversions and the front end changes to later, wider tired, forks. Luckily, there are a few really good machinists here too that can (not sure on cost or how much beer may be involved in getting on their "to do" lists ? :laugh: ) do some great fabrication work that is needed when swapping out the front and rear suspensions as you wish.
The best news of this, IMHO, is a search here on the forum can make it easy with a [ Show and Tell. Swing Arm & Fork Swap ]

Good luck. Wish I had the vision for radical departures from stock. Maybe it's being old. I'm happy just to get it back to looking like it was manufactured recently and just rolled outta the dealership floor before the last rain! :laugh:

Tirefire Pat wrote: Hey guys how much modification would it take to swap a gs swingarm on to my 80 Ltd 1000 b???? Be specific ..I'm learning as we speak..lol

Depends on which GS...the 750/1100 aluminum arm from 80-83 is a straight - in swap at the front, as far as I can remember. Can't remember what it needed at the wheel end, though. I had to machine frame spacers for putting one of those in a CBX (Honda frame is wider), but remember seeing many KZ's with that arm in them back in the mid - 80's. That doesn't buy you much more tire clearance, though....about the same as a GPz900R swing arm (the original Ninja 900). I think max tire would be a 160, maybe a 170 if you are lucky. 170 is about as wide as you can go without the 630 chain touching the frame near the front sprocket anyway. You should / need to use an offset sprocket set up at both ends for anything wider than 150.

Hey! Imagine meeting you here! :laugh:

There's been quite a few guys here that have done this kind of mod. Both front and rear actually.
Here's a quick link about a GS1100 swap-in on a KZ.
[ GS1100 Swingarm Swap ]
Should make you feel a bit easier

Hey guys how much modification would it take to swap a gs swingarm on to my 80 Ltd 1000 b???? Be specific ..I'm learning as we speak..lol

1981 KZ1000, I'm doing temporary reassemblies on the wheels and have about a 1 inch gap on the rear between the swingarm. On the chain side there is a spacer about 1" thick. On the other side there is a spacer about 1.25" wide with a stepped ledge, plus what looks like a really thick washer (which I think is supposed to go outside the swingarm, beneath the crown nut). The parts diagram doesn't show any other pieces outside of the bearings, so am I supposed to compress the swingarm when I tighten down the axle nut? Did I miss something?

(And yes, I see that the axle and crown nut are supposed to go in from the other side)

GSXR Swingarm for me. Ground clearance is an issue if you pick up fat chicks in the trailer park. Seriously though, I am real close in tight turns but I run a firmer but not uncomfortable preload and dampening on front and back. I catch flack once in a while however Kzs aren't known for peg dragging anyway so slammed to the ground isn't an issue.

Im the same. Complete ZX9R front end (stem swap) 17inch wheels front and back. GSXR600 swingarm with shock mounts welded on.
Cant speak to the handling as the wheels and swingarm are still at the powdercoaters.I am concerned with the ground clearance though
(Harris 4into1 exhaust) but Im looking more to the (cheaper) fork extensions rather than the (expensive) dropped triple tree.

Coast Steve wrote: Well maybe it all stops right here then. (and thanks you guys for the tips).
So you recommend I don't need to modify it then.
Already have the swing arm DR G,

My goal is more power though cams or head work but on a decent handling frame.

This bike is still in transit to me so I don't know how it will handle and feel.

I did read lots about rubbery frames on the web though.
But that might just be with with sticky slicks and on the track.

I also really miss those 3 rd gear roll on powerlifts my old superbike did.
Hoping for that feeling again with this.
I also remember switching to roller bearings in the head tube on another bike and wow what a difference.
Not sure if mine has those or not.

I just want the bike to be as good as it can be....within reason. I know it's only steel tubing.
Would love to see your pics DR Gamma

I LIKE!!!!
Your bike looks real nice in my book!!! What kind of throttle is that?? Looks like the old Yoshimura 1/4 turn I found for my old Superbike.

A few other things I also did to my S1 was replace those rubber mount pieces with the solid aluminum mounts that Sid Pogue made back in the early 80's. And I made up an oversize swing arm bolt. I could not believe the amount of clearance between the frame boss, and the stock swing arm bolt!!!! It had to be at least .030 between both. Just imagine what .030's of play there ends up at the rear axle!!!! That's one of the first things I noticed on all of the Muzzy built Kz1000's was a different swing arm bolt. Gee, I wonder why!!!

My machinist made me up a fixture that fit into the frame, and had a adjustable ream on the other end that opened up that side of the frame to the oversized bolt. Then I flipped it around and did the other side of frame. That way both sides of the frame were basically line-bored. Then I just honed the inner swing arm bushings to like a .001~.002" clearance to the oversized swing arm bolt. I have to tap my swing arm bolt into place. A lot of work, but it made a HUGE difference on my home built KZ1000 back then!!!

Got the wheels back, but it'll be at least another week before I can paint. Yeah it's snowing again!

Been digging around, couldn't figure out where I put the front axle. Turns out it was in the box, I was just expecting something *bigger*. Ah well, get that cleaned up and go from there. I'm thinking I need to at least have the back brake rotor turned, I might also do the two on front. Hmm where did I put the baggie with all the rotor bolts?

Erg... the chain goes *around* the swing-arm. I wonder if there's a master link or if I need to take the swingarm back off again?

Random musings while I glare angrily at the snow outside the window...

Hi Reel,

This is what has always worked for me and is just my opinion. I am no expert by any means.
I found the biggest thing is a solid bike. Not a spongy suspended one.
I always used 25-30 weight fork oil right off the bat. Never anything like 5, 7, 10 or even 15 weight
A racer told me that once and I always done it.
Then I slipped the forks a 1/2 inch or so into the camps lowering the front end.
Lifting the back also worked. so I usually had the rear spring tensioners on max or one less than max stiffness.
That would keep the back a little higher and keep things stable in the corners
Tires should be to a few lbs from the max that's written on the tire.

Be sure all the triple clamp bolts are up to spec and tight.
Same with the swingarm pivot bolt and front axle clamps.

Also check that there is no play in the steering itself. If there is tighten up the nut and locknut to take it all out and then back off the nuts just a tad.
Checking the steering lock to lock on the center stand, if you have one.
Remember your bicycle steering would loosen up when you were a kid after doing jumps?
Motorbikes do it too after years of riding.
With the bike on it's wheels put o the front brake hard and rock the bike back and forth. You might hear of feel a very small click or thud. That could be mean the steering nut can be snugged up. But always check lock to lock after up on the stand. No weight on the front.

These things always had me safe and pretty fast all round.

Getting into it deeper, I've repacked the front steering bearings with noticable differences.
Usually all these little things you do all add up to a much better handling bike.
This pic is proof. I'm on Michelin "Hi Sports: here but they needed warming up like slicks.



Good luck with it,


Steve