TOPIC:

.Today i measured the bores again just with Allen Millyard method .
   watch from 11:25

I am not sure this method is very accurate ,but since i got some strange measurements on cyl 4
that was too small with my boredial gauge last night i just wanted to test this method.
I will measure the bores again with the boredial gauge more later.It may not be 100% calibrated and yesterday i found cyl 2 was out of round by 0.002mm .And that cyl 4 had only 0.030mm clearance and 1-2-3 had clearances around 0.050mm.
Here are some pics

 

 

 

 

 

 

I'm not sure how accurate measuring a gap between two curved surfaces with a flat tool is ??

HaHa i know but the thin feelerblades do curv. It is maybe  same level of accuracy as knurled pistons

That's how I do it. The blade will curve to match the cylinders. My old 1015 bores were at .003" after clean up hone so I ran them. That was outside of spec but it ran great. Burned a little oil but when I went with my 1075 the bores were getting smooth almost cutting through the hone marks and using less oil the longer I ran them. You could do a light hone to smooth out the deep scratches and it should run fine. One thing though, if the rings are the old style they may need a rough hone to seat in where the new kind don't need it. 
Steve

SWest wrote:

That's how I do it. The blade will curve to match the cylinders. My old 1015 bores were at .003" after clean up hone so I ran them. That was outside of spec but it ran great. Burned a little oil but when I went with my 1075 the bores were getting smooth almost cutting through the hone marks and using less oil the longer I ran them. You could do a light hone to smooth out the deep scratches and it should run fine. One thing though, if the rings are the old style they may need a rough hone to seat in where the new kind don't need it. 
Steve

Yepp i am not sure if the hone marks are to rough .I tried to get some old style rings that has the one piece oilring because then it will be more easy to install the pistons inot the bores the way i am  planning.Im going to install the pistons into the bores first and then connect them on the rods.When the oilring is old style one piece it does not popp out from the chamfer on the bottom of the bores.I have done it this way before on my Fj 1200 and that had a 3 piece oilring and it was a little difficult .

5 minutes later...
I just checked now and it looks like it is going to be okay .  The rings i bought from IMD pistons is chrome coated i think and if the hone marks are to rough i think it will flake of some crome ,but not sure

 

.Done some more measuring of the bores.The boredial gauge that i have used started to show strange measurements so it has gone bad.I was lucky because
i tried to fit another clock that is for another type of gauge and it fitted perfect.So then the measurements could be checked.Cylinder nr 1 is a little smaller.
It has piston to wall clearances .055 while the other 3 cyl has .060 to .065mm.
I also tested more for fun with the feeler blades method and it is infact quite acurate ,but i think then the bores have to be straight not eggshaped and tapered.
With feelerblades i could not slide in a .060mm feelerblade into cyl 1 that is .055mm it got stuck  same was for the other cylinders a .060 feelerblade had a tight slide fit. and can now confirm that the measure with feelerblade is not divided by 2.
Not sure if i will hone cyl 1 a tiny bit and smoth the honemarks out a little on all  cylinders ,because i heard that if the honemarks is to rough and using crome faced rings the crome can flake off.?

Have started to measure the new piston rings that i bought from IMD pistons.The oilring is different it is a 3 piece ring .The old oilring is a one piece type.I did a test to se if the oilring popped out from under the bore.It did not so then i will install all pistons into bores first with a piston ring compressor and connect them on the conrods when engine is sitting in bike.I have done it this way before and think it is a little safer for the rings and easyer.

I have done most of the job on the cylinders and head i can do a little writeup on that later, so mayby someone can chime in if they se someting i done wrong ,but now have ran into a possible problem.Im now replacing some of the camshaft bearings and
discovered that they are not the same as the old one that was fitted.? The new bearings is oem kawasaki , but they have different numbers stamped on the backside se pic.
I have no more plastigage left so i can not check the clearances. Can anyone confirm that the new shells can be used?   is there different shell sizes on the camshaft ??
The old is on the left

Just fond another bearing shell from the new i bought marked D0D -B  std   .Just now i have installed intake cam to bench shim the valves.I used assembly lube on everything , but It feels like it is grinding a little when i turn it
so when i take it off again i can see if the bearing has any scoring

From what I've read, cam bearing shells are only supplied as STD (standard).

I just bought a full set for my KZ1000J head.
The part number on the packaging is the same as yours, however the stamped numbers look a little different, probably different suppliers...





H.

Does the earlier motor use the same bearings as the "J"

I just checked part# for cam bearings on a '77 KZ1000... 13034-030

All the same number:  '82 J model, '81 GPz 1100B1, '82 GPz 1100B2

H.