gas tank sealing

I have no way of knowing what the original treatment was, only that the POR-Strip was POOR indeed and did nothing to it. I did manage to scrape off what I could get at from the gas cap opening, which wasnt much. When you say "burn it out" what is the method there? poor a little gas in and light it up? probably not, how would I go about that? I was wanting to keep the current paint job if at all possible. i may try your M.E.K suggestion as those a-holes with their "we stand behind everything we make " BS still havent gotten back to me. Its fine if they're standing behind a pile of crap, its still a pile of crap, but now it has an a-hole standing behind it! I also tried some other of their products, and did find that they didnt stand up to their marketing BS....

also, to comment on your USER error comment, not bloody likely in this case. As i said, I have done three others, and have followed the instructions to the letter. I do know how to read and dont really appreciate the idiot proof remark.

Try the MEK first. What color is the stuff that is in there? If you have any of the stuff that you scraped out, put it in some Acetone or MEK and see if it dissolves. In this way you will know where you stand. If you need to burn it out than the paint job is TOST also. You would have to put it in the oven for an hour at about 450f The MEK will at-least remove the POOR-15 gue. The only POR-15 I have ever had luck with was their black and their clear. Those are both very good products.

xstreamcanadian wrote:

also, to comment on your USER error comment, not bloody likely in this case. As i said, I have done three others, and have followed the instructions to the letter. I do know how to read and dont really appreciate the idiot proof remark.

On this one I do not Doubt you at all, ANYTING these POR Idiots make with silver pigment is absolute SHIT. I have wasted SOOOOO much money on their products that have not worked it is unbelievable. Their products are just TOOOOO expensive to be such a crap-shoot. But once again, I do like their BLACKS and CLEARS. Those are about indestructible. If you use one of their blacks on a frame it is about as good as powder-coat. I painted a Chromed rear fender with their black that was just wiped off with some Muriatic acid to remove the rust. It is holding up beautifully and it is in the elements all year around here in Chicago because I leave my bike outside all the time.

thats great info thanks for your reply. The color of the existing stuff I would describe as a cream color. I do have a 'sheet' piece of it and will try it in the acetone first(as I have some of that kicking around) where would one pick up the m.e.k? Auto supply store or crystal meth supply store?

The por tank stuff I used in my 650 sr is still good looking, and did the trick, but i only knew about por and creem, and I had heard that creem was crap from so many people i went with por. There is a good chance this product in there is creem, as it was done locally, and here in canada, the bike shops all seem to carry that crap.

thanks again

If the stuff is Cream in color than most likely it is Kreem and you will be out of luck with the MEK. Burning is the only method for that Crap. I had the same experience on two of my tanks. As much as I use and like Epoxy for all kinds of work I would never use it to line a tank. I use Epoxy professionally in my work and am aware of all of its uses and limitations and I know how they react with Ferrous metals. There are a few that are designed for Ferrous metals and they have a lot of Phosphate in them to prevent oxidation. This also makes them very brittle and they have a lot of shrinkage if they do not contain a filler. Normally epoxy should have very little shrinkage.

Everywhere you look on the web, they tell you that MEK will remove Kreem. I know for a fact that MEK will not remove an epoxy liner. God knows that I have tried. On one of my tanks that had that crap in it, I filled it up with MEK and let it sit over the whole winter with no luck. The way I finally got it out was that I flushed the tank with Muriatic Acid for quite a long time to let it get under the epoxy and dissolve the rust. Than I rinsed the tank with water and than allowed it to dry. After that I mixed some Try-chloro-Ethylene (Sunnyside "Carbo-Sol") with some MEK and put it in the tank with some 2" drywall screws and shook it like mad for a couple of hours. It eventually did come loose in chunks which I was able to remove. All of these Chemicals can be bought at a hardware store like Home Depot.

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i have some muriatic acid, maybe i will try that with some roofing nails. so burning it out, i throw it in the oven, when the wife is not home, and bake it, and then what?

Than the same thing as in my previous post. Epoxy is a pain in the ass.

H1Vindicator wrote:

saltydog wrote:

I have written about this several times but no one seems to listen. I guarantee that if you try it, you will never worry about your tank again. Very little prep work to do because it encapsulates the rust, cuts off the oxygen supply so that it doesn't continue to rust and it seals pinholes! I have several tanks, some done over ten years ago, including one Jeep pickup tank that are still perfect.

West System epoxy. Any brand would do, but I happened to have some already. No polyester resin, though it might work, but I haven't tried it.

Uh.... ?!?! you lost me.

What is about epoxy that you don't understand?

Have you read this?

Rusty Tanks


Bill