Preventing Flash Rust…IMPOSSIBLE!! (prove me wrong)

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Marty, speaking as a woman that uses WD-40 for clutch/throttle cables, throttle tubes, my chain, and pretty much everything else that I can...I don't really agree. I sprayed a bare engine block with WD and 3 years later when I dug it out, no rust. 

That being said, it isn't my first choice for this topic. I'm just kind of irked. 




 

That's no surprise at all!  The engines on the KZ bikes are made of an aluminum alloy, so no matter what they cannot rust.  Rust occurs on ferrous metal, not aluminum.  Ed

I didn't say a KZ block, you arrogant prick.

Update the morning after:  Attempt#5 was a FAIL also!  This morning I have a few spots of surface rust inside the tank...Bummer. But also there is this black and grey crud which has developed especially on the lower parts of the tank. You can easily wipe it off.  It is not the black phosphotizing that covers the metal after a long Phosphoric bath.  I am going to have to start again by pressure washing out the crud then on to attempt #6  

(You are welcome to read the following but I was premature in classifying attempt #5 as a success)
Hi Guys,  SUCCESS!!  Thanks for all the input.  Based on comments I have read I tried again.  Attempt #4...  Phosphoric acid wash (Tank looks great after the acid was drained) followed by a single one gallon distilled water rinse.  But before I could put a quart of WD40 after I drained the tank it had already flash rusted.  The rusting was minor but still there almost instantly. Another failure.  I decided the rinsing operation was the problem.  It removed the acid exposing the bare etched metal to the oxygen.
So next I tested the reaction between the WD40 and the Klean-Strip Metal Prep by mixing some together.  No crazy chemical reactions but they separated almost instantly with the Klean-strip heavier and below the WD40.
Attempt #5 for my KZ1100 tank: Derust using the Phosphoric Acid (Klean-Strip Metal Prep) and then drain.  This time no rinsing but immediately I added a quart of wd40. Drained well and then added a fresh quart of the WD and drained.  SUCCESS!  No flash rust.
Tomorrow I will ad some Marvel Mystery oil. I should have the carburetors rebuilt and installed by next week and then I will be installing the tank.  Hopefully firing her up late next week.
The picture shows the used WD in gallon jug.  Yellowish WD on top, The white layer is the water emulsified with the WD, and the clearish lower layer must be the phosphoric acid.

 

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Marty, speaking as a woman that uses WD-40 for clutch/throttle cables, throttle tubes, my chain, and pretty much everything else that I can...I don't really agree. I sprayed a bare engine block with WD and 3 years later when I dug it out, no rust. 

I'm just opining! You want  very excellent products?
"WELLWORTH" I have ordered and used their products for 25 years. I know the original owner and founder, he has since retired. I ordered $1000's of dollars of product for a large commercial printing plant.
"A2Z" is WD40 on steroids! kicks its ass!
"MY-T Grease" sprays out as a liquid, then set up as grease in about 1-2 minutes. talk about cable lube! 

Been using these products and love them. Been restoring bikes and parts for 25 years, preserving wire harness, rubber parts, selling on eBay for 20 years. Helped me make money! And preserve my motorcycles.
They are online and sell to individuals. Buy Some! try it out!
Ask "Shankhole" with the Trike. He came from Michigan to Buffalo  and picked up an engine I sold him. I gave him a fresh can of A2Z. He seen my stuff. Now he knows!
OK, take care.
Sorry I started a peeing contest! 

 

 

 

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Buy a quart of Marvels Mystery Oil! $5.00-$6.00 depending where you live or store? 




 

Marty, do you add it to the fuel? How much per gallon?

Hi Matt, about an ounce to 5 gallons of gas. But I always put 2 ounces in the Harley, 5 gallon fat bob tanks on the big FLH.
Lubricates the whole top end, the carbs, cleans rings, whole combustion chamber, etc.
Cuts a little on the fuel octane, but I also always used non- ethonal 100 octane fuel they sell local in western New York.
I put it in my lawn mowers, my snow blower and my new vehicles also, does not mess with O2 sensors or cat conv's.
Give it a google!
40th year of my 1975 FLH! April of 1981 I bought it! $3,000! My Mother thought I was crazy! I turned a $10,000 offer down 2 summer ago. Some guy was at the cruise night bar, came back after an hour with cash, showing off, put it in my face. Could'nt do it! Been in 3 or 4 different styles, finally came back to almost stock.



 

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Marty, speaking as a woman that uses WD-40 for clutch/throttle cables, throttle tubes, my chain, and pretty much everything else that I can...I don't really agree. I sprayed a bare engine block with WD and 3 years later when I dug it out, no rust. 

That being said, it isn't my first choice for this topic. I'm just kind of irked. 



 

That's no surprise at all!  The engines on the KZ bikes are made of an aluminum alloy, so no matter what they cannot rust.  Rust occurs on ferrous metal, not aluminum.  Ed

I didn't say a KZ block, you arrogant prick. 
 

You didn't say what kind of block, so considering that this is a KZ forum it seemed logical that you were talking about a KZ block.  If my comments offended you I apologize, but calling me a name seems a bit extreme.  Ed

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I didn't say a KZ block, you arrogant prick. 

This comment is uncalled for and only diminishes you, not Ed.  Please thicken thy hide.

Glad to hear you figured out a method to keep the rust at bay.  I'm wondering though if the WD-40 rinse is properly washing away the remnant phosphate wash?  If the two don't mix that may not be the case.  Maybe it doesn't matter?  I suspect that's the case but just say'n...

In the auto body painting world all the various manufacturers sell a phosphate product that's designed to etch bare metal just prior to painting.  And just like your tank, when it's water rinsed there is always some flash rust.  The first times using this product I found it frustrating, but after that I just accepted that there will be some light patina on the parts and not to worry about it.  

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I didn't say a KZ block, you arrogant prick. 

This comment is uncalled for and only diminishes you, not Ed.  Please thicken thy hide.



Watching   ..............................................................................

 

Me too

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Glad to hear you figured out a method to keep the rust at bay.  I'm wondering though if the WD-40 rinse is properly washing away the remnant phosphate wash?  If the two don't mix that may not be the case.  Maybe it doesn't matter?  I suspect that's the case but just say'n...

In the auto body painting world all the various manufacturers sell a phosphate product that's designed to etch bare metal just prior to painting.  And just like your tank, when it's water rinsed there is always some flash rust.  The first times using this product I found it frustrating, but after that I just accepted that there will be some light patina on the parts and not to worry about it.  

Please see my previous post #849097.  Unfortunately I was premature in classifying Attempt #5 a success.

I restored the last post. This is a learning curve for all of us and we learn from successes and fails. 
IMO I don't think a small amount of flash rust is an issue and filling the tank is the goal right? 
Carry on. 
Steve