Heavy Duty Clutch Cable?

'83 KZ750 LTD F-1

Hey all, so I was out riding today and my clutch cable snapped right at the ball in the clutch lever. A few months ago I put in a new clutch cable and plates and added slightly heavier clutch springs and obviously that was too much for the cable. I'd really like to not have to get a new cable every few months so does anyone know if they make heavier duty clutch cables? Or any other ideas as to why it might have broken? My clutch has always been extremely tough to pull in and all my riding buddy's are always blown away by how much resistance there is. I've always assumed it was normal for my bike and I've gotten used to it but maybe something is off? Any ideas would be appreciated.

Mac55 wrote: '83 KZ750 LTD F-1

Hey all, so I was out riding today and my clutch cable snapped right at the ball in the clutch lever. A few months ago I put in a new clutch cable and plates and added slightly heavier clutch springs and obviously that was too much for the cable. I'd really like to not have to get a new cable every few months so does anyone know if they make heavier duty clutch cables? Or any other ideas as to why it might have broken? My clutch has always been extremely tough to pull in and all my riding buddy's are always blown away by how much resistance there is. I've always assumed it was normal for my bike and I've gotten used to it but maybe something is off? Any ideas would be appreciated.

Did you lube the new cable when you installed it? Do you have a cable lubing device that clamps over the end of the cable sheath?

Did you check the cable for any routing issues? Is it binding anywhere?

Did you check the clutch actuator on the engine end of the cable?

Stiffer clutch springs should not cause the cable to break unless it was already marginal/defective. I installed a Barnett clutch with heavier springs in my GPz and never had trouble with the clutch cable.

I know the cable wasn't bound anywhere and I cleaned the clutch actuator when I redid the clutch. I don't have a lubricating tool but did use some lubricant on both ends. The cable moves within the sheath no problem and I never saw it ridding anywhere. Should I get the same cable (the only one I could find for my model) and just make sure it's very well lubricated? Is it normal for the clutch on these bikes to feel really stiff?

Stock clutch springs and a fresh, and well lubed, OEM Kawasaki clutch cable will fix your bike up. Be sure to grease up the clutch actuation helix and the ball end on the end of the cable.

Mac55 wrote: I know the cable wasn't bound anywhere and I cleaned the clutch actuator when I redid the clutch. I don't have a lubricating tool but did use some lubricant on both ends. The cable moves within the sheath no problem and I never saw it ridding anywhere. Should I get the same cable (the only one I could find for my model) and just make sure it's very well lubricated? Is it normal for the clutch on these bikes to feel really stiff?

That's the thing: it's not normal, so there must be something else afoot. Even after swapping the clutch springs on my bike I could still actuate it with two fingers.

It also sounds like it was difficult to use before the spring swap; is that correct? (Probably not as bad, but you did say it was "always" like that.)

That's correct, it's always been stiff. Got slightly stiffer when I added the new, heavier springs. It did require my whole hand to pull it in even before the new springs. I know the pushrod moves fine as I tested that when I redid the clutch. Lever is also smooth.

Did you grease the actuator? Adjust per FSM. Mine has always been hard pulling and I'd go through a cable in two years. I modified my actuator arm.
Steve
kzrider.com/forum/2-engine/601798-clutch-actuator-mod

I didn't put grease specifically on the actuator but when I replace the cable I'll go in and grease everything.

So for the actuator you basically increased the length of the arm to provide more leverage and utilize the full range of the lever? What were you doing with the ball bearings? Had a little trouble understanding that part but I'm sure it'll make sense when I pull everything out again and remember how it works.

Agree with greasing the mechanism. There are small ball bearings in the helix which may be damaged or binding.

If your bike has modified handlebars then a stock clutch cable may be the wrong length. Trying to route an overlength cable through the bike can result in binding. And again, the OEM Kawasaki cables are much better quality than Motion Pro. For my 750 I used a GPz clutch cable because it's shorter and I'm using Superbike bars.

Mac55 wrote: I didn't put grease specifically on the actuator but when I replace the cable I'll go in and grease everything.

So for the actuator you basically increased the length of the arm to provide more leverage and utilize the full range of the lever? What were you doing with the ball bearings? Had a little trouble understanding that part but I'm sure it'll make sense when I pull everything out again and remember how it works.

There are two different types of of clutch actuators. The worm drive type and the EX pull ball and ramp type. Both needs to be greased. If you have the EZ pull, you shouldn't need to do the mod. The ball bearing in mine was to make up the difference in in length of the screw. I did away with it. Turns out they made a slight modification to the arm stirrup and used a longer screw. Pics of what you got?
Steve

This is the only clutch cable I've been able to find for my specific model. Everything is stock on the bike and I believe it's the worm drive, this is the only picture I have at the moment, I'll get a better one and post it tonight. Oil you see is from a bad shifter seal.

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