Heavy Duty Clutch Cable?

I've ran Barnett springs since 83 and the stock cable is still going strong.... just put fresh ones in again a few years back...... if it ever goes I would never think about getting anything but another nos one.....oil it every 2 years and have kept the actuator well greased.

Being the shaft drive variant of the 750 you have a unique version of the clutch actuation mechanism. I'm not positive how to service it but I think you need to unbolt that device that pushes on the pushrod and see how smoothly it operates.

Alright so I have some new information. Attached is the mechanism and also a picture of damage to the lower sleeve on the cable. It was difficult to pull the inner cable out through the lower section despite there being no kinks anywhere. Something happened to either crush or warp the sleeve that creates extra tension and is likely what caused the break. That being said I still feel the clutch is too tough as I hadn't noticed any change whenever the sleeve got damaged, just it breaking.

And there's where it is on the bike

When a clutch cable fails at the lever as you describe, many times it's the lever itself that is worn.
The hole where the cable barrel sits in wears the aluminum lever to be elongated or egg shaped and when you use the clutch, the cable end barrel doesn't pivot in the hole. The cable just flexes back and forth until it breaks.

A new lever is called for or at least re-sizing/shaping the lever hole.
Also check the lever pivot point to make sure it's not wallowed out.

Many people use a Barnett clutch pack and stock springs to have a decent clutch pull and the benefits of the heavier clutch pack.

I've used Motion Pro cables for years with no issues.