Clicking while rolling

if you dont know what to look at
look at internet pics of new bike chains
on bikes
it will show you how fucked yours is

Actually, just test the chain.
Grasp the chain at the back of the rear sprocket and try to lift the chain off the sprocket by pulling straight back. If you cab see more than a third of the tooth, the chain is ready to be replaced. Another way is to measure. Most chains have a wear spec; if the chain exceeds the specified distance between ten pins, it is worn out.

The condition of the sprocket can also be an indicator. Visibly worn sprocket teeth can signal a worn-out chain. They stop having their pristine, symetric shape and start getting pointed, slanted, etc.
Replace the set with 530 if it has 630 right now.

you can run a new chain on old sprockets
IF THE SPROCKETS ARENT FUCKED
so you can just go get a 630 chain and
swap it out if need be
however if the sprockets are fucked as well(ive got a feeling they are)
theyll need to be replaced as well
the most dangerous thing you can do right now is ride without inspection
these old kawis will always make fast
but you gotta have control
at all times
they go really fast
dont be a st%#@$d C%&^@#t

I am using a brand new o-ring chain on the sprockets that were already on my GPz. And they are 630. However, I know exactly how to read a sprocket. The shape of the teeth. The appearance of the grooves in the sprocket. The sides of the sprocket. The machine markings on the sprocket. My sprockets were pristine, so I installed a new chain on old sprockets.
On a bike that has the death rattle in the chain, I strongly doubt the sprockets are acceptable, but they must be examined minutely.
Reading the sprockets is critical. Installing a new chain on worn sprockets is a death sentence for the new chain. Good money after bad, I believe is the axiom.
What I said previously, and I maintain, is that if you need to replace the set, go 530. It is a no-brainer.

what is the conversiom
from 630 to 530? offset?
lets hear it!

Nothing to hear, really. Call Jeff at Z1Enterprises (well, he has someone else at the front desk now), tell him what you want to do. They calculate the new numbers, depending on the ratio you want. Teeth count will change for both sprockets, link count will increase, but they should be able to get you exactly where you want to go.
They do the conversion all the time over on the off-brand site.
There is an offset washer that is included in the kit. This is not common knowledge?

Not trying to be a smart guy, this is just so common at GSR that I assumed KZR was aware as well.
Remember, I am new to this site, so I don't know what y'all do or don't do, know, or don't know.

good answer

I wasnt aware that the o-ring chain i get from an industrial supplier we use at work was no good. I'm gonna have to tell the boys in maintenance to shut down the machines that run day in day out without any trouble to get better chains.

Anywho, run what you want, inspect it and make sure its good to go, 4,000 miles on my junk chain and it's still going.

An industrial chain has a totally different purpose and construction from a motorcycle chain. Each is designed from the ground up for that purpose. If you do not get 30-35k from a well maintained motorcycle chain then you are doing something wrong.
I put 15k on the o-ring chain on my GS1100E with one adjustment.
Use what you want, its your bike and your life. I use motorcycle chains on my motorcycle.

koolaid_kid wrote: An industrial chain has a totally different purpose and construction from a motorcycle chain. Each is designed from the ground up for that purpose. If you do not get 30-35k from a well maintained motorcycle chain then you are doing something wrong.
I put 15k on the o-ring chain on my GS1100E with one adjustment.
Use what you want, its your bike and your life. I use motorcycle chains on my motorcycle.

+1 Ed

Finally got around to working on it today.I checked out the chain, and it looks good inside and out. The sprockets look good as well. I pulled on the chain and it's tight and does not come off the sprockets at all. All teeth look great. Talked with previous owner, and he says the chain was replaced at some point since he's had it, but couldn't remember when.




The bike still clicks, even without the center stand, so that was not the problem apparently. Although it's nice knowing that the chain isn't hitting the stand, still a problem. I listened more while riding and it sounds like it's coming from the front anyways. Had no way to capture sound still, but sounds like a baseball card in the spokes of a bicycle. Anymore thoughts/ideas?
Thankss?

First, an observation: that chain is filthy. You really need to get some kerosene and an old toothbrush and clean all that crud off. Then lube it with a quality chain lube or silicone spray.

O.K., on to the issue. There is not that much that could cause the clicking sound up front. It would either be the rotor/brake pad relationship, or the speedometer drive. My money would be on the speedometer drive. Do you have a way to raise the front wheel off the ground so you can rotate the front wheel? Perhaps a floor jack under the frame, supported by a board wide enough to raise it on the frame rails? Then you could spin the front wheel while stationary and narrow down the location of the clicking sound.