frame bracing

actually i edit that last post , im gonna send my frame to jim (wireman) and and all its problems :whistle: and hope it comes back raked 3 degrees and all stout like a pitt bull on roids :woohoo:

Did you get the care package in the mail yet?
Ive got some more stuff to send ya

i did and its awesome, next batch of pics i put up will have that in it, been down and out lately and wont go near the bike but this week ill have the cases split etc. thank a ton man, was gonna call you today but my ex came over with her girl and they stayed a while. if your gonna be up a bit longer ill give ya a ring.

Im always up,just looking for an excuse to get off my ass and work on project! :woohoo:
Damn dog keeps carrying off my cell phone ,Ill just listen for the buzzing coming from where ever hes laying at! :woohoo:

Frames present a catch-22. Around these parts, or last I checked, when you insure a Z1 you get one quote and a KZ gets a higher one. Z1 is under 1000cc which is the line for jumping to higher insurance rates. KZ1000 being a 1015 gets the higher rate so always tried to build off a Z1 frame. Now I just use a KZ1000 frame for the added beef in the frame and sometimes add some bracing...depends on the build. Always told KZ frame has more clearance around the chain line when using offset chain line. Decide what you are trying to do and then pick the frame for the purpose.

guitargeek wrote: Okay, look, I'm not here to argue all day, I've got to get out to the shop.

Take a piece of steel and a piece of aluminum, let's say business cards made of each, and bend them. If the steel is tempered (like a spring), it'll go back to it's original shape, if it's not, it'll stay bent. The aluminum, though, will typically crack in the middle, leaving you two halves.

WAY oversimplified, but that was basically what I was trying to say.

ok, you convinced me!

if its to go work on that sweet thing in your avatar, then i am happy to set you free

merry christmas!

I see the steel vs. aluminum debate all the time on MX sites. Aluminum frames are easier and cheaper to build than a steel tube frame. KTM and other Euro makes still build steel frame bikes...and win championships with them.

toad wrote: My new build will be off a 74 z1, maybe go big block , but was trying to stray from welding on that frame in hopes one day it will be put back to original condition, 7s 150 mph no frame bracing, nice.

That's where I'm at with my Z1B. I can't bring myself to brace the frame, so I'm trying to get better handling with tuning and bolt-on stuff. So far I replaced the shocks with ZRX shocks, that alone seemed to help some with the 80mph tank slappers. I still get a weave in high speed sweepers (45+ mph). I plan on installing emulators in the forks along with stiffer springs and a steering stabilizer.

I'm not expecting to turn like I'm riding a ZX6R, but the bike should be alot safer and stable than it is now.

(And yes, for the 1,000th time, the steering and swingarm bearings are new, lol)

Have you checked frame/steering head to make sure theyre straight?

wireman wrote: Have you checked frame/steering head to make sure theyre straight?

No, because I never heard of them being crooked.

To check, I guess you would need to fix the rear axle horizontal, then check the line (plumb) of the fork tubes?

Seems like every z1 frame Ive ever checked has been out of wack between close enough construction from the factory to guys like me who liked to wheelie them too hard and fall off the back sending them unmanned down the street when we were younger,yeah they took a beating back in the day! :sick: :woohoo:

Okay, if you don't mind adding to the old Z1 chassis, then every brace you can put into it is worth the effort! My take on it is, "if you have a correct papered Z1 and it's original, don't mess with it" Get yourself a later 70's chassis and throw Z1 bodywork on it and brace the hell out of it. These things were known as "flexy fliers" for a reason. Do what you want and be safe! Frame bracing and common sence goes a long ways when it comes to getting home safe. To be honest! I'm tired of the "don't mess with it, It handles good, how can you improve on it!" If that were the case, Kawasaki would still be producing the Z1 or be bankrupt!

Les

I have two kzs a 79 and an 80 and have always run them as fast as the bike wants to go. Never have I had any hint of wobble in them, ever. Maybe someone hit the front end? Maybe the head bearings are worn out? Time to replace with the upgraded roller bearings? My problems that I have noticed were with my head bearings and old shocks. Of course they don't hold a candle to the handling of the ZRX so I am just going to enjoy the Rex in the corners and ride the kz as hard as I can ride it to the best of it's limits. Now if this were my daily I definitely would upgrade as much as possible to make it handle. Wait a second, I think the new progressive shocks and box swing arm along with the progressive springs and roller bearings in front should help a little.
If you have a classic Z then I suggest for you to get an LTD frame and go from there. Thicker tubes and brace it so you can go back to original stock. Problem fixed.

lushbaugh wrote: i didnt wanna chop and weld on my frame at first either but it needs it, and i have a 79 ltd which is supposed to have less flex but the frame leaves alot to be desired, head woble at 120 is nasty also so i suspect its not true.

Just read les's post. WHAT HE SAID!! :laugh: That is exactly what I'd do. Then you can do the bearings in front and brace the frame up and whenever you decide you've had enough back to original with no issues.