79 kz400 fork oil

My forks definitely need oil. I have not seen a post for this so sorry if I am asking a dumb question...

How do you fill these?

.

www.kawasaki.com has exploded view diagrams.

DON'T UNSCREW THAT OIL DRAIN BEFORE RAISING THE FRONT END OFF THE GROUND, OR BEFORE REMOVING THAT UPPER SEAL, OR YOU WILL GET OIL EVERYWHERE. Been there. Done that my first rebuild. "Oh here is the drain screw... oooooh!!! "

The manual will tee you to use engine oil, because that's all they had back then, so use fork oil, and you'll have to experiment with what weight.

Thanks for the advice.

The book says "remove cap"... but does not explain HOW to remove the cap.

I think it is a circlip, just not sure how to access it. Must be by sticking the tube further through the triple tree or something... I dunno.

You need to remove 44044-023 circlip. Maybe get the weight off the forks and see if the cap pushes down a little.

Kidkawie wrote:

You need to remove 44044-023 circlip. Maybe get the weight off the forks and see if the cap pushes down a little.

K thanks.

2 11012-1021 CAP, RUBBER, FORK TOP 2
3 44044-023 CIRCLIP 2
4 44029-022 GUIDE, SPRING 2
5 44046-025 "O" RING 2
6 92001-1063 BOLT, HEX HEAD, 8X40 2

The above is from kawasaki.com which has lots of good info, including parts diagrams, part numbers, models sharing same part, availability, etc.
Here's a link for help with navigating the site and finding information.
Click > kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&...w&catid=13&id=376734

Good Fortune!

Thanks Patton. That shows the circlip better than the image in the manual does.

Perhaps better ways, but with Z1 and KZ900, I usually start by removing the two drain screws, then wrapping a towel around each fork leg to cover the holes, next pump the forks, which squirts out the old oil "mostly" into the towels.
Without the towels, the old oil will squirt a long way. :pinch:

Prop up the front end by using a block under the motor, so the tire is barely touching the floor or slightly off the floor.
This will assure that the front end won't later collapse and drop the bike when the caps are removed which sets the springs free on Z1 and KZ900 which don't have circlips under the caps.
On models having circlips, don't remove the circlips without likewise first supporting the front end.

The top clamp bolts are loosened slightly (not removed) before attempting to remove the caps.

Replace the drain screws.

Fill with specified volume of fork oil.

Fashion a "dip stick" with a wood dowel, and mark distance from top of fork to the fluid level. Which shows the correct level with unladen forks.
The dipstick will be handy next time to enable filling to correct level without having to pre-measure volume. Or for checking levels in event of seal leakage.

Complete reassembly. Remember to tighten fork clamp bolts. Remove blocks.

Good Fortune!

Pardon my ignorance here, but is the fork spring pushing against that plug? If so, won't he need to relieve that pressure to get the circlip out and then VERY carefully ease the plug upward to avoid having it embedded in his forehead?

TexasKZ wrote:

Pardon my ignorance here, but is the fork spring pushing against that plug? If so, won't he need to relieve that pressure to get the circlip out and then VERY carefully ease the plug upward to avoid having it embedded in his forehead?

I hope he figures that out :laugh:

There's not that much pressure once the front wheel is off the ground. It might pop up, but that's it.