Welder

yeah I am sorry for incorrectly stating that...Yes it is not a tig..Simple OxyAce welding. And Man you are full of wisdom I appreciate it. Like I said I use to weld for a job, but if many of my sups had your wisdom It would have given my greater insight on welding better. The tensile strength of oxyace welding with the right rods, temps, and flux if need can produce welds that are as tuff as a stick weld. It's all about penetration. And yea I have a ac/dc welder, but yes I would need a buzz box to get the whole tig part working right. I guess I like that torch kit because of its cutting capability. so yeah, but yeah I have an older build post on KZR...Look for my mods and things there.

One thing you may find useful for the torch setup is for Aluminum Brazing...

Not saying I'd use it for lets say building a swingarm but for engine case repairs... You bet ya.... I used a similar HFT unit for brazing the holes in my engine cases....

Also used it to braze up some other fabbed components such as brackets for my chain guard....

Good luck....

OMR

use 3/32 7018 low hydrogen very clean weld ans bullet proof for strengh 6010 should not be used on very thin material too easy to burn or blow through (desinged to give very deep penetration).

steell wrote:

6010/6011/6013 works well for welding rusty dirty metal, but leaves "ugly" welds, although it's super easy to strike an arc. 7018 requires "clean" metal, is harder to strike an arc, but leaves a bead like a row of dimes.

amperage requirements are usually printed on the package.

u say 7018 requires "clean" metal, is harder to strike an arc.

my son had a bitch of a time trying to strike an arc with this rod, and keeping it going. a few years back he built a trailer at school. he had to make some additions (all new steel) when he brought it home. we borrowed a welder(220 volt. Model=?) and bought some of this rod, he had used a dif rod at school? is there a trick to using this rod? Is it because he may have had the wrong amperage? As I recall , he tried dif settings?
what about the drying of this rod? it doesn’t sound practical for the occasional user to keep rod in a dryer?
is there a better choice for a beginner? the trouble he had, has kept me from trying mods to my KZ,myself.

7018 is a dc rod,needs a dc welder to make it work right.7018ac is an ac rod ,i never have a problem with starting 7018,of course i use a dc welder which works better than most ac buzz boxes

mark1122 wrote:

steell wrote:

my son had a bitch of a time trying to strike an arc with this rod, and keeping it going. a few years back he built a trailer at school. he had to make some additions (all new steel) when he brought it home. we borrowed a welder(220 volt. Model=?) and bought some of this rod, he had used a dif rod at school? is there a trick to using this rod? Is it because he may have had the wrong amperage? As I recall , he tried dif settings?
what about the drying of this rod? it doesn’t sound practical for the occasional user to keep rod in a dryer?
is there a better choice for a beginner? the trouble he had, has kept me from trying mods to my KZ,myself.

7018 is a low hydrogen rod and must be kept dry in a rod oven to maintain its low hydrogen properties. It's hard to re-strike an arc because the rod burns up inside the coating forming a 'cup' that keeps the metal rod away from the base metal when striking. If you break off the extended coating from the rod it will start up easier. To start an arc, scratch the metal like striking a match rather than stabbing at the base metal.

I use 7014 for general purpose welding. It works on AC or DC. It's not as sensitive to moisture in the coating as 7018 and strikes and welds very easily. It can be dragged to provide a nice bead. It's available at many farm supply stores. Buy a couple of pounds and practice, practice, practice.
Tom