Welder

you know i never thought about that...i think I need to buy me another rod chart. I had one that would tell you what to use on what, and correct amperage. And the think about that torch kit is its ability.

Follow the link... Will help in Heli-Arc (Stick) Welding and electrode selections....

kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_docman&...d&gid=483&Itemid=108

OMR

OMR that's what I am talking about right there....thanks! I still plan on getting the torch kit simply because I like tig welding a lot. That and when I do my mods to the kz650 i am picking up I want it pretty...what Im doing on the 1100 wont be seen very much. Does anyone have a good idea on how to measure the distance ( where I should put) the rear sets from the shifter or in reference to the axle. I got rear sets off of my old fzr and I will be using the frame mounts off of it on the kz. Should I just spot them on and trying fitting them , or what do you guys suggest?

I wouldnt use 60xx anything on thin pipe. They burn to deep. They are designed for putting in root passes in pipe that need to have good penetration and burning through dirty or rusty metal. I would use a 7018 probably a 1/16 rod on a frame or maybe even a 1/32 if you could find them and they would be very diff. to use because they are so small. the 1/16 7018 would be a good choice for welding on the frame. Also make sure the metal is very clean. I aint clean unless its shiny and clean. If you have an AC only machine they make 7018 AC rods but if you can use a DC machine you are way better off. Even a cheap wire welder with flux cored wire would be a better choice than trying to stick on thin stuff.

Even a cheap wire welder with flux cored wire would be a better choice than trying to stick on thin stuff

now thats funny i dont care who ya is! :woohoo:

Old Man Rock wrote:

Follow the link... Will help in Heli-Arc (Stick) Welding and electrode selections....

kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_docman&...d&gid=483&Itemid=108

OMR

Heliarc is Tungsten Inert Gas (TIG) welding, also called GTAW, Gas Tungsten Arc Welding.

TIG welding is also called Heliarc® welding. Heliarc® was the trade name given to the process by Linde's when it was introduced decades ago. The arc is started with a tungsten electrode shielded by inert gas and filler rod is fed into the weld puddle separately. The gas shielding that is required to protect the molten metal from contamination and amperage are supplied during the TIG welding operation.

www.advantagefabricatedmetals.com/tig-welding.html

6010/6011/6013 works well for welding rusty dirty metal, but leaves "ugly" welds, although it's super easy to strike an arc. 7018 requires "clean" metal, is harder to strike an arc, but leaves a bead like a row of dimes.

amperage requirements are usually printed on the package.

3/32 7018 would be my choice.If done nicely 1/8 6010 would be fine as well.

EDIT: Never mind for we already went down this debate some time ago...

Welcome back Steele...

I agree with toad. Also, make sure to clean the area you will be welding. As with just about anything else... the prep work will save you work in the end. Cleaner metal will allow a cleaner weld.

"Cleaner metal will allow a cleaner weld."... Exactly!

First 2 digits are tensile strengths
3rd digit is ROD/electrode welding position
4th digit is flux compositions and current (AC/DC)
Additional numbering used for weld deposits chemical compositions

Lincoln, Miller, Hobart all have good information on this subject of electrode selections, sizes, currents and weld metal thicknesses to make your selection...

Feetweld P5 for tacks....
Low Hydrogen (7018) for final & strength welds...
You'll be good to go....

BTW, Dark that's just a torch kit not TIG...
TIG or MIG (Inert Gas concepts) for that matter still require an electric power source (welding machine) for AC/DC currents to the electrodes... whether it be wire feed (MIG) or tungsten tipped (TIG).... Or any other inert gas acronym that can be found on wikipedia...

You can still oxy/acetylene weld with it though... Not sure I'd trust the tensile strength on a kZ frame in this manner but pending what your doing with it.... who knows...

If you already have a AC/DC welding machine then all you require is a TIG rig, tungsten electrodes, GAS regulator and a bottle of Argon... OK, one more plus the wire fillers for carbon steel, aluminum or stainless you plan welding on...

Let us know how it comes out for you.... Good luck!

OMR

Just found this... May provide some further insight as well....