I did the 630 to 530 conversion on my 750 LTD

to keep things ALMOST exactly stock, you would have to go with a 16t(15.6) front and a 40t(39.6) Rear sprocket and a 102-link chain. This would put you at a ratio of 2.50:1. This will give you a .04:1 better take off but also x.04 higher RPM at highway speed. These are insignificant numbers. Most guys would prefer this slight change.

My KZ650 originally had 13 / 33 gearing with 630 chain, for a ratio of 2.54. Then I went crazy with a 13 / 26 gearing, or 2.00 ratio. You had to slip the clutch a little more to start, but the bike was very pleasant up to about 65 mph. Gas mileage was averaging upper 50s. But when trying to run fast on the highway, or with a headwind, the 650 just doesn't have enough torque. The result was that you had to have the throttle open a lot - and gas mileage suffered.

So I went back to a 14 / 33 gearing, or 2.36 ratio. I found this to be about all the engine can handle. Now big displacement bikes can use high gearing more effectively, but I imagine that the 750 is geared about as high as you can go with the 17 / 38, or 2.24 gearing.

Hey Josh,

Thank you for your inquiry!

Well, I’ll try to make it as simple as possible.



STOCK KZ750 – H3

84 Links 630 chain, 13T front sprocket, 32t rear sprocket = 2.46:1 drive ratio (hypothetical 4,000 rpm at 60 mph)


630 to 530 chain conversion





Existing Front Rear Chain Final Drive Ratio RPM Impact


630 13 32 84 2.46 4000




Equivilent

530 15.6 38.4 100.8 2.46


New

530 16 39 -0.5 101.3 2.44 3961


Straight conversion (maintain same drive ratio):

102 Links 530 chain, 16T front sprocket, 39T rear sprocket = 2.44:1 ratio (hypothetical 3,961 rpms at 60 mph)



Improved cruise ratio (lower rpms, better fuel economy)

102 links 530 chain, 17T front, 38T rear = 2.24:1 drive ratio (new and improved 3,668 rpms at 60 mph {nearly 10% reduction in engine speed})


This is the Email I got from Z1E. I can't make the table convert over to be posted, but here is where the info came from.
www.gearingcommander.com/

Just pick your bike and the stock info is already there. Then you can make changes in gearing and chain type (530 vs 630) and it will give you approx. values. Of course you might get sprocket counts like 16.8, so you'll have to pick a whole number to be close.

I told Chris I was thinking of going up one tooth on the front of my 630. He gave me the closest equivelent in a 530 set up. If I remember correctly, the sprocket are actually stock replacements for a GS650.

I agree 17/38 is the most I would go on that bike.

djturnz wrote:

Hey Josh,

Thank you for your inquiry!

Well, I’ll try to make it as simple as possible.



STOCK KZ750 – H3

84 Links 630 chain, 13T front sprocket, 32t rear sprocket = 2.46:1 drive ratio (hypothetical 4,000 rpm at 60 mph)


630 to 530 chain conversion





Existing Front Rear Chain Final Drive Ratio RPM Impact


630 13 32 84 2.46 4000




Equivilent

530 15.6 38.4 100.8 2.46


New

530 16 39 -0.5 101.3 2.44 3961


Straight conversion (maintain same drive ratio):

102 Links 530 chain, 16T front sprocket, 39T rear sprocket = 2.44:1 ratio (hypothetical 3,961 rpms at 60 mph)



Improved cruise ratio (lower rpms, better fuel economy)

102 links 530 chain, 17T front, 38T rear = 2.24:1 drive ratio (new and improved 3,668 rpms at 60 mph {nearly 10% reduction in engine speed})


This is the Email I got from Z1E. I can't make the table convert over to be posted, but here is where the info came from.
www.gearingcommander.com/

Just pick your bike and the stock info is already there. Then you can make changes in gearing and chain type (530 vs 630) and it will give you approx. values. Of course you might get sprocket counts like 16.8, so you'll have to pick a whole number to be close.

I told Chris I was thinking of going up one tooth on the front of my 630. He gave me the closest equivelent in a 530 set up. If I remember correctly, the sprocket are actually stock replacements for a GS650.

Isn't that What I said in the previous post?? Without all the spaces in between.

I just want to warn you that 3700RPM at 60MPH on a 750 is really bringing your torque down in the gutter. Just so you are aware. On my 1150 at 60 MPH I am at about 3000 and I can really feel it. I have no choice but to down shift to 2nd gear to pass with ANY kind of authority. I am also pushing well above 110HP. You will find that with that gearing you will be in 5th gear ONLY on the highway. You will spend most of your time in 2-3 and rarely 4 on the streets.

Old Man Rock wrote:

I used pliers on mine to snap the C clip into position...

OMR

I meant, to compress the sideplates and O-rings to get to the groove for the clip. I used my pin-pusher tool and I bent the sideplate. So I'll have to use the other one and try something different.

otakar wrote:

Isn't that What I said in the previous post?? Without all the spaces in between.

I was simply copying the info from the email Z1 sent me.

Besides, it's my thread and I'll re-post if I want to.

otakar wrote:

I just want to warn you that 3700RPM at 60MPH on a 750 is really bringing your torque down in the gutter. Just so you are aware. On my 1150 at 60 MPH I am at about 3000 and I can really feel it. I have no choice but to down shift to 2nd gear to pass with ANY kind of authority. I am also pushing well above 110HP. You will find that with that gearing you will be in 5th gear ONLY on the highway. You will spend most of your time in 2-3 and rarely 4 on the streets.

So you are telling me that the LTD stock gearing is about as "highway" as anyone should go?

On a 750 on the highway I would not go much below 4500 at say 60MPH. I think that you would loose some of the pleasure of the ride if you do. Now on the other hand if you went to a 550 6 speed transmission in the bike than you could get away with it. But that is a lot of work for obvious reasons. I think that a 17/40 or 16/38 is the MOST I would push it. My choice would be the 17/40 because of the longer chain life and better reliability because of the extra contact area on the front sprocket.

As to the clip closed end facing forward, this means the closed end of the clip is in the forward direction always as the chain is rotating, so closed end forward as the chain travels forward towards the engine sprocket and rearward as it travels back to the wheel sprocket. The chain goes round and round and closed is always leading, open trailing. To install the sideplate on a new chain, use an extra sideplate on top of the new, grip with visegrips until fully pressed, then remove the old sideclip.

anyone here still have a sense of humor. I'm just bustin OMRs chops. :lol: I use a chain braker with the pin removed to put the side plate on. one pin at a time.