I did the 630 to 530 conversion on my 750 LTD

Parts came from Z1E yesterday. When UPS dropped them off, I had already pulled everything apart and was busy cleaning my rear wheel.

I used one of the 1.25mm spacers to start. Not sure if I'll need to add another or not.

I did not realize that I needed a special tool to use the clip style masterlink. I thought that was the reason for using that over the rivet type that comes with the chain. I used my pin pusher chain breaker to squish the side plate on and at first I had the clip on the wrong direction. So I pulled it off and put it on the other way. I must have stretched the end because only the closed end is actually fully engaging the groove.

I'm not sure if I can find just the clip locally. I guess that's something that a hardware store or Tractor Supply might carry.
I am going to run out at lunch and check tractor supply, but I didn't bring the clip along. I think I read on a different site that guys were using a non-o-ring chain from TS. I think it was called 50 series. Does anyone know what I need to look for in a clip size? Will it say 530?

Anyway, I went with a 17/38 ratio.

Is the lube that's on the chain (RK RX-Ring style) ok to run with, or is that just for packaging and I need to add something?

I was thinking about doing this swap. I plan on using a 13/38. I'm curious, why did you go with the 17T front sprocket?

I wanted to go more or less one level higher in gearing for a lower highway RPM. You can't just go "up one in front" using the 630 tooth count, and then buy that size in 530. The links are smaller, so the sprocket diameter is smaller for the same number of links.

I emailed Chris at Z1 Enterprises and he told me my stock ration in 630, the change in ratio in 630, and the equivelent in 530, along with a list of part numbers from his site. 2 sprockets, chain, 3 spacers, a masterlink and a t-shirt was $165 shipped.

djturnz wrote:

I'm not sure if I can find just the clip locally. I guess that's something that a hardware store or Tractor Supply might carry.
I am going to run out at lunch and check tractor supply, but I didn't bring the clip along. I think I read on a different site that guys were using a non-o-ring chain from TS. I think it was called 50 series. Does anyone know what I need to look for in a clip size? Will it say 530?

www.tractorsupply.com/agriculture-farmin...50-pack-of-4-1151066

This is what I want to use. Just the clip from this pack of 4 "50 series" chain links. I assume that a 530 is a "50 series" chain?

Does anybody have a trick for clamping the master together to get the clip on without spending $30 on the special tool that I'll use once or twice in 5 years?

I just used channel lock pliers.

I went with an 18/40 ratio on my GPz1150, 540 conversion. I chose a Tsubaki "Sigma" "O" ring chain because when I bought it about 8-9 months ago it was the strongest chain available at about 10,500#. I lost some "take off" power because the engine revs so low while I am stopped so I have to slip the clutch a bit more during first gear engagement. Also during passing on the highway I shift down to second gear while at highway speed of 65MPH. At this speed in second gear I am at about 6200RPM in second gear. This gives me another 2300RPM to bring me to third gear before I hit red line and shift at about 91MPH to third gear and brings me back down to 6500RPM. When I get back to red line in third gear I am at about 117MPH. At this speed when I shift to fourth it brings me to about 6800RPM. I have not had it at red line and fourth gear because that would bring me to about 140MPH and we don't do that here in Chicago in fourth gear, and still having one more gear to go :woohoo: . On my bike, 70MPH in 5th gear equals about 36-3700RPM. The legal metropolitan highway speed limit of 55MPH in 5th gear is almost exactly 3000RPM. NOW THAT'S A CRUISING GEAR!!!! :woohoo:

Just in case, as a reminder, extremely important...

Always place the clip link on the chain so the closed end "C" is pointing in the direction of travel...


I used pliers on mine to snap the C clip into position...

OMR

I forgot to mention, I bought a second rear wheel hub on eBay on which I mounted a 45T sprocket. I also bought a spare 16T front sprocket. This allows me to switch both sprockets in a matter of about half an hour or so while being able to use the same 114-link chain already mounted. Now I change my ratio to the other side of the spectrum, from 2.22:1 to 2.81:1. For you to have an idea for comparison the STOCK GPz1100 (1089) had a power gear of 2.72:1. By bike is ANYTHING but a stock 1150.

Old Man Rock wrote:

Just in case, as a reminder, extremely important...

Always place the clip link on the chain so the closed end "C" is pointing in the direction of travel...


I used pliers on mine to snap the C clip into position...

OMR

Direction of travel? I only travel forward. :lol: The clip goes, back & forth, back & forth, back & forth, back & forth, and so on and so forth :lol: So at some point it faces forward and at others it faces backward :lol: so is it when the clip is on top or bottom :silly: ?? Be more clear :S :kiss:

Sorry to hijack your thread. Should I go from the 630 chain, 13/33 to the 530 chain, 17T front and 38 rear for my 530 conversion?

Ituen wrote:

Sorry to hijack your thread. Should I go from the 630 chain, 13/33 to the 530 chain, 17T front and 38 rear for my 530 conversion?

That would depend very much on what you are trying to achieve with the conversion. Why are you doing it?

Your stock ratio is 2.54:1, you don't have any monster HP on a stock 750 Your first gear ratio is 2.33:1 to My 2.65:1 on the 1150, This will put you in a real first gear disadvantage if you go up too much.