81-82 GPz , J, LTD, CSR series Frame Bracing ?????

The 82 frame is the same as the 81 frame for the "J". Only the GPz1100 and the "R" had the front bracing.

trianglelaguna wrote:

heres one with some rake changes:woohoo:

I would say that one has a mod or two. :laugh: Just a bit too radical for me.

trianglelaguna wrote:

heres one with some rake changes:woohoo:

looks like he put the intercooler for supercharger right behind theheader,kinda counter productive im thinking. im sure it hauls ass but that style bike dont look right with raked frontend to me,looks more like a honda cruiser! :laugh:

KZP 1000 frame

PLUMMEN wrote:

trianglelaguna wrote:

heres one with some rake changes:woohoo:

looks like he put the intercooler for supercharger right behind theheader,kinda counter productive im thinking. im sure it hauls ass but that style bike dont look right with raked frontend to me,looks more like a honda cruiser! :laugh:

Exactly what I was thinking. :laugh:

On the issue of rake numbers I have a question: What are your plans with the bike?
The reasons that I ask is because I have a couple bikes that I put different suspension components on and these components changed the rake/trail/wheelbase numbers. If you are going to have different suspension parts then there are two different ways to approach it (in my mind): first would be to install your suspension components and then take measurements and make your adjustments accordingly...or you can ride and see what you think and go from there. The second way is to take detailed measurements before you get started and measure out all your component dimensions, then install and re-check.
Obviously, the latter method would be the more cautious and prudent method ...but I went with the former and things turned out nicely. :ohmy:

-KR

I would like to add about a degree and a half. I have a bit of a wobble at about 125mph and would like to eliminate that without sacrificing handling. I could install a leading axle fork in front such as is on the later CSR/LTD/Spectre bikes, but than it would handle like a truck in the turns. I would like to go to about the same rake as the 83-85 GPz1100 bikes had stock plus about half a degree. Otherwise I will just go to a steering damper.

otakar wrote:

I would like to add about a degree and a half. I have a bit of a wobble at about 125mph and would like to eliminate that without sacrificing handling.

Do u get the wobble at lean or going straight??
Do any of your other bikes have the same wobble?
The reason i ask is that mine has less rake and no wobble in a straight line, at 125, just at lean at speed.
Could your wobble be related to something other than rake?

This is a straight line wobble. I remember my Z1R had a nasty wobble at about 120. I have some new fork springs I will install first and see if that helps. I seam to bottom out the front end every time I hit the brakes hard.

It is common to put a sleeve in the top of the fork to preload the springs. if your springs are too soft the front end will sag more , creating less rake. The race shop i bought my kz from in 79 , had put about 1.5 to 2" spacer sleeves on top of the springs. U can use metal or ABS pipe.
I would suspect a steering head/wheel bearing or a wheel balance issue as the more likely suspect though.
I had a VERY nasty wobble once, that was corrected with a new front tire.
Good luck, i am on the same course, trying to solve my wobble at lean.
Mine could be related to my shocks being too stiff? i will also recheck my swing arm pivot bearing fit, since i had to make a sleeve to fit the ZRX12 arm to my KZ.
Things are not always obvious, especially when we start to modify things.
I am going to tare the bike apart to repaint. So i may as well gusset the hell out of it while its apart, but i really don't think that is a frame flex issue.

As to running the csr/ltd style forks with leading axel decreases trail and adds to wobble. I believe these bikes used trees with less offset to compensate and maybe even a different rake angle. Read this artical and it helps to understand the speed wobble.
www.stripbike.com/rake.html
As to the raking a frame I prefer to cut most of the original head tube out without cutting into frame and grafting in a new head tube. Results are much stronger and you avoid the trees hitting the tank in a cut and move stem deal

That is the best article and explanation I have ever seen. Thank You for that one. That should be posted somewhere on this web sight where everyone can get to it easily. I will print it out and stuff it in one of my manuals.

Studying the article, it looks like that just by stiffening up the front end to keep the forks longer or by. extending the forks by .5" can make a difference. I studied the leading forks on the cruiser stile bikes and have found that the trail is the same as the straight forks. They just use this stile to lengthen the fork travel and NOT change the geometry. Unlike what I thought that in fact it IS used to change the geometry. That article is really great.