TOPIC:

as long as you dont mind grinding

i can still have frame brace kits made if enough people are interested .
i can also supply motor mount kits and oversize bolts just need enough people interested to cover machine shop costs,the more i order the cheaper i can get them made

i like this pic. u dont see this mod enough. i think it would realy help. Ma kawi added some of this type of gusset work to the gpz and kzp's. so it must help.

531blackbanshee wrote:

For those guys thinking of big tires.
This is for a big tire mod.
notice that the inner footpeg bosses have been ground off for chain clearance . also the frame rail has been flattened were the chain rides.

531blackbanshee wrote:

leon

i'm geaded out to the shop to cut out a gusset kit right now !

leon

Did you actually just heat it up and flatten the area where the chain runs or did you alter...such as cutting area out and welding in a plate recesses into the frame tube...or...I hear you guys saying this and that but just not sure what you actually did. I will be needing to do this soon so am very curious how different ways are to do this.

Reminds of the BSA Gold Star where the frame tube is sufficiently dented relieved to allow clearance for the exhaust pipe.

mark1122 wrote: i like this pic. u dont see this mod enough. i think it would realy help. Ma kawi added some of this type of gusset work to the gpz and kzp's. so it must help.

531blackbanshee wrote:

glad my track project is a J-model...the frame was made in japan copying from the superbike mods on the z frames and is sufficient to race and in crease power in it's stock form .....

anyone have a link to bracing kits here in the states?

great pics mark and blacky

this is better imo

going to do this very soon. I dont know why I havent started a build thread yet.....

broke a starret hole saw ,dangit man .
$8.00 blown before the first notch is cut.i was using my joint jigger because i was to lazy to take the rotab off the mill and mount the vice.
there is a huge difference between trying to use the joint jigger with a 1/2 drill or mounting it in the drill press.but i didn't want to do that either because if you got a mill the drill press don't get used as much ,for some reason .i had taken a small block of aluminum and bored a hole through it and split it open to use to clamp tubes in my mill vise and then notch em .that is the way to go,quick setup effective .

racer54,mark heated his up and smashed it in using a c-clamp.it looks like in the pics we have in this post that they notched it and welded it back up.my prefference would be to notch and fit a nice channel in and weld it all back up.i have the means to do the welding so that makes me want to do it that way.if i didn't have the means i wouldn't hesitate to use marks method of heating and clamping.hth.

i did get the two tubes for the trianglelagunization ( )of the three upper back bone tubes done tho.i was pleased with those.all the cleanupdickinoffsetup time is a killer tho,i need more space.

tri the later model frames are def beefed in the needed areas.my 80 z1r has these tubes that are the same id as the od of the front downtubes,they then split the tube lengthwise and overlaid the front down tubes from right below where the lower tubes of the backbone go around the down tubes down to right above the front motor mounts.they then welded them up the seems in front and back.i have never seen them on another frame and have no other noticeable extra gussets.this is the best handling kz i have ever rode,but it stands to reason that by 80 they knew what to do better.
they are hard to get a good picture that shows them i will one day but it might have to wait until the header comes back off.cause it kinda hides the end of the overlay.neet trick tho that could be added to older chassis.

ok back to the shop i will get some crappy pics cause i broke the good camera.


leon

Is this what your talking about leon? This is an 80 Z1R frame