A 3 month old battery loses its charge with 15 miles

Perfect:)

Thanks. I’ll try tomorrow or Sunday. 

Funny, I was in the same place as you with the stator wires..
Except i was swapping in 12awg tefzel wires for the old ones..
Those screws were a pain but i got them out..
I tightened the screws slightly first.. that broke them loose

Thanks. Did you tighten with an impact screwdriver, manually with a screwdriver, or manually with an angled screwdriver (for more torque)? I don’t want to chew them up any further than they already are, which perhaps makes Wookie58’s suggestion preferable. 
cheers. 

Just a tight fitting bit on a screwdiver... but i did use an adjustable wrench to clamp the screwdriver for more torque.

I would go for the impact if you're starting to chew the screws up.

I’ve completed soldering and will soon be reattaching the stator cover to the bike. I’m a bit concerned about the rubber grommet that leads the two yellow wires out of the cover. I’ve pressed it back into place as well as possible but it is still riding a bit high above the edge of the cover.

Is there a torque limit for the 9 screws that attach the cover please?

Cheers

It doesnt look like there is a specified torque for most screws on the 440 so id just make sure that they are tight but not too tight that you won't be able to remove them after 400 heat cycles... that rubber grommet needs to have some liquid gasket for sealing and dont worry too much about the way its sitting because when you tighten the cover down it will press in.

That is a Phillips bit, and it can mail a JIS screw, JIS bits are blunt, rather than pointed. This allows them to sit deeper into the screw and more fully engage the screwing surfaces.

www.z1enterprises.com/jis-screwdrivers-s...three-144-244-4.html

Hi folks. According to the service manual, liquid gasket should be applied to the portions where they contact the crankcase mating surface.

1. That reads to me that the entire surface where the gasket meets the cover/crankcase is to have it applied. Am I correct?
2. The web recommends “Permatex 22072 Ultra Black Maximum Oil Resistance RTV Silicone Gasket Maker”. Would you agree that would be ok please? I can get it readily from Amazon UK so it is ideal for me.
3. To which surface should the liquid gasket be applied please? Cover, crankcase, or both? 
4. Would it be better to apply it to the gasket rather than the mating surfaces? I think this would be more efficient but perhaps not.
5. Do I avoid applying it on the rubber grommet that seals the two exiting yellow wires?

 I will test the output voltage of the alternator at 4000rpm. I would prefer to test it before replacing the lost oil, because if I refill with the quantity of lost oil (most/all of the 2.9 litres) and the test fails, I will lose that expensive oil when removing the cover again to fix the issue. In your experience could I run the engine for a few minutes with the remaining oil to do the test, or is that too dangerous to the engine? Many thanks again 

 

Apply it to the grommet side then a smear of oil to the case side so when removed the gasket won't tear. 

   If a case cover like that needs to be removed, oil loss can be reduced or eliminated entirely by tilting the bike far enough over to the opposite side & resting it on a good foundation.   We keep an ancient 21 volume hardcover encyclopedia set for the express purpose of creating a variable-height, non-marring surface to rest a bike on.  Would recommend removing the tank if it has fuel in it & maybe draining the carbs.
   EDIT: Doesn't take much tilt for most bikes.  30° ~ 45° from vertical should be plenty.

   What works for us:
   Assuming both mating surfaces are reasonably clean, smooth and very flat, the thinnest possible wipe of the RTV you mentioned on both gasket sides done gently while pinched between ball of the thumb thumb & whatever finger comes naturally.  Doesn't take much, just a sheen.  If a significant amount (more than a thread-thin bead) of RTV squeezes out when torquing the fasteners, too much has been used.  Read the directions on the RTV for application timing & tightening.

Good Ridin'
slmjim & Z1BEBE

slmjim+Z1BEBE wrote:

   If a case cover like that needs to be removed, oil loss can be reduced or eliminated entirely by tilting the bike far over to the opposite side & resting it on a good foundation.   We keep an ancient 21 volume hardcover encyclopedia set for the express purpose of creating a variable-height, non-marring surface to rest a bike on.  Would recommend removing the tank if it has fuel in it & maybe draining the carbs.

   What works for us:
   Assuming both mating surfaces are reasonably clean, smooth and very flat, the thinnest possible wipe of the RTV you mentioned on both gasket sides done gently while pinched between ball of the thumb thumb & whatever finger comes naturally.  Doesn't take much, just a sheen.  If a significant amount (more than a thread-thin bead) of RTV squeezes out when torquing the fasteners, too much has been used.  Read the directions on the RTV for application timing & tightening.

Good Ridin'
slmjim & Z1BEBE

Can I also suggest removing the battery if using a "flooded" type before laying it over !!