KZ650 converted to electronic fault

IC should be fine, the issue with the 1022 is it’s only for 1 model (hen’s teeth) and I guess the seller knows that

I looked at gd4now's post last post and am confident the 1016 advancer will work.  The sole purpose of the advancer is to advance detonation timing.  In that respect the 1016 and 1022 are pretty much identical.  You said you had a strobe light...hopefully with a clip for your plug wires.  If you put the clip on #4 you should see the "F" mark line up with the timing mark with your rpm's at 1050.  And if you rev the engine up to 3200 rpm you should see the fully advanced mark line up with your timing mark.  This is for 1 and 4.  Then, move the clip to #3 plug wire and do the same with the marks on the advancer for 2 & 3.

That will confirm your timing is not the problem.  The next step would be to check your igniter.

With respect to your coils...do you have a ballast resistor in parallel with the coils?  

I'm going mad now ?, number 1 cylinder isn't firing now ?, there just a slight warmth on the headers....
So I have checked the air gap on the pickups which seem identical from left to right.
I have bypassed the clean air setup by running a pipe from spigot to the other on 1 & 4 carb inlet... still the same
Warmed plugs up....same
New plug in number....same
Checked spark at plug which was good.
Removed plug cap and used screw into HT lead....massive blue spark jumping 3/4"
Undone float bowl screw, confirmed fuel
Tried on Prime and normal both times float bowl fills up.
I'll have to check the timing tomorrow as its late here in the UK
Points to the carb you might say but I've had a similar problem with number 3 which has gone away by itself
Cannot see anything wrong with the carb inlet rubbers they are not cracked or perished in any form
For those who have run the 650 without the fuel tank and forgot to blank off the vacuum line it's like that, it's as if the carb isn't pulling any fuel through?
Any ideas this could be the reason why she's no longer revving ?

 

And I nearly forgot she no longer screams her nuts off on choke ?, before if I started her after a minute the rev's would climb to 5k and i'd have to dash back to the bike and close the choke ? She starts from cold OK but doesn't rev much more than 1500?
Something gone weird lol.

Took the opportunity today so pulled the carbs again...nothing found, checked the rubbers and typically 1 screw backed out about 5mm then went tight....anyway got it out and replaced with cap heads as couldn't find a suitable pan headed screw.Put it all back together and she fired up on all 4 ?.....have a listen.I'll try here out when the weather improves it's wet and foggy here in the UK


 

gd4now wrote:

I may of taken this topic off its rails with the part number info, that was not my intention. The advancer you installed may work fine with your machine, I certainly do not know that it will not. I am still interested in what igniter you are using? Is it for a 550 650 1000 or some other bike/model?

From some of the manuals I have access to the 650 stock points systems indicate the following 
from 10 degrees BTDC @ 1600 rmps to 35 degrees BTDC @ 3200 rpm

650 electronic system indicate the following 
10 degrees before BTDC @ 1000 rpms to 35 degrees BTDC @ 3200 rpm

the 550 manual indicates 
10 degrees before BTDC @ 1050 rpm to 35 degrees BTDC @ 3200 rpm




 

Basically once the bike reaches 3200 it’s fully advanced and won’t affect the achievable rpm, I’m convinced the one I brought despite having a different part number it will work fine, the failing top end rpm might be down to the 4 ohm coils. I do order a set from Amazon but they arrived and metered at 4.2 ohms !!!. I’ll wait for a better day and try her again before finding another set of 3 ohm coils.

Don't know for sure what effect it will have but there will be a reason why there is a part number specific to the 650 !!

It might be the 1000 rpm v 1050 mentioned above lol, I’ll risk it and report back once the roads are dry.
Roll on spring
 

MauserXR wrote:

gd4now wrote:

I may of taken this topic off its rails with the part number info, that was not my intention. The advancer you installed may work fine with your machine, I certainly do not know that it will not. I am still interested in what igniter you are using? Is it for a 550 650 1000 or some other bike/model?

From some of the manuals I have access to the 650 stock points systems indicate the following 
from 10 degrees BTDC @ 1600 rmps to 35 degrees BTDC @ 3200 rpm

650 electronic system indicate the following 
10 degrees before BTDC @ 1000 rpms to 35 degrees BTDC @ 3200 rpm

the 550 manual indicates 
10 degrees before BTDC @ 1050 rpm to 35 degrees BTDC @ 3200 rpm





 

Basically once the bike reaches 3200 it’s fully advanced and won’t affect the achievable rpm, I’m convinced the one I brought despite having a different part number it will work fine, the failing top end rpm might be down to the 4 ohm coils. I do order a set from Amazon but they arrived and metered at 4.2 ohms !!!. I’ll wait for a better day and try her again before finding another set of 3 ohm coils.

Are the pin slots in the same place? Some aren't.

Everything fitted good ? Not sure what you mean by pin slots ? 

MauserXR wrote:

Everything fitted good ? Not sure what you mean by pin slots ? 

I believe Steve is referring to the slot that locates on the crank pin in relation to the position of the rotor

I agree that the 1016 advancer should work.  Which means the problem is most likely somewhere else.  Someone has also mentioned the igniter.  I had problems with the igniter on my KZ1000 where two cylinders would drop out sporadically.  The coils were 2 ohm with a ballast resistor.  Eventually I switched my entire ignition over to a Dyna with 4 ohm coils, eliminating the original electronic stuff plus the ballast resistor.  No more problems.

You might want to try changing the igniter.