TOPIC:

So I bought a Spectre from someone I would trust with my life and take a bullet for, and he'd take a bullet for me... so just to get it out there, the previous owner is above reproach.

So I'm told he rebuilt the engine and well, he's a car mechanic firs and foremost and doesn't like fooling around with small engines as he doesn't quite grasp them, and he followed the Clymer manual to the letter. He also gave me his Clymer manual when we made the deal on the bike. Which means I now have two of the manual because it's the same manual as for my KZ1000-Ps.

Anyway... he says the only thing wrong with it is the starter motor. Now, that's a part of a bike I've never had the (dis?)pleasure of working on before. From what he says it's a brand new starter, but the shims are wrong on it, which makes it too tight and it doesn't "spin back" like it's supposed to.

So um... what does that even mean and how might I go about fixing it? The only shims on KZ engines that I'm even aware of are the valve shims.

I need to fix the bike at his workshop and ride it home because he's a bit swamped with fixing up vintage hotrods for clients at the moment. I have ridden it from a push start so I know the engine runs just fine. I'm just not wanting to risk damaging anything with and electric starter that doesn't "spin back".

Please help.

If the starter motor is your problem, then you will be happy to know it is a pretty easy component to remove and work on.

...but if the problem involves the starter clutch-flywheel assembly being too-tight against the engine (rubber spacer too thick), that will be a completely different situation.

 

So,  what happens when you push the starter button?

Disconnect the primary ignition coil wires. Turn the petcock off or pull the vacuum hose to the petcock to prevent fuel from flowing.

Put the battery in a place where you can disconnect the negative terminal just in case the starter keeps spinning.

And have a fire extinguisher handy.
 

wrote:

If the starter motor is your problem, then you will be happy to know it is a pretty easy component to remove and work on.

...but if the problem involves the starter clutch-flywheel assembly being too-tight against the engine (rubber spacer too thick), that will be a completely different situation.


 

This sounds like what he's talking about. He mentioned today (he towed the bike over to me today) that to fix it I'll have to get the puller tool for the flywheel, which suggests to me that it's the starter clutch not the starter motor.

wrote:

wrote:

If the starter motor is your problem, then you will be happy to know it is a pretty easy component to remove and work on.

...but if the problem involves the starter clutch-flywheel assembly being too-tight against the engine (rubber spacer too thick), that will be a completely different situation.





 

This sounds like what he's talking about. He mentioned today (he towed the bike over to me today) that to fix it I'll have to get the puller tool for the flywheel, which suggests to me that it's the starter clutch not the starter motor.


 

IMO, study the Kawasaki Factory Service Manual on this subject before proceeding.  Use tools made for the job, and do not waste a penny on alternative methods.
Correct tools make this job simple by comparison, and the potential for damage is minimal.

Tools I find useful:

 

The factory manual is best. Here is a link to a pdf for the chain drive models, with a supplement for the 1982 models near the back. Be aware that the cam cap torque spec is misprinted.
This should do until you can get the correct manual for your model.

www.kzrider.com/modules/ServiceManuals/K...Service%20Manual.pdf
 

Thank you so much, DaveO and TexasKZ. I've got a hard copy of the factory service manual for the 1982-2005 KZ1000-P. As well as 2 Clymers for that which includes chapters for the 1100 I've got, and an older Clymer for non-police 1000 and 1100.

I'll download the PDF. What I've got here is the shaft model though. It probably doesn't matter for the starter though.

If the cam cap torque spec is misprinted, what should it be?

(edit)

Just looked up the rotor holder tool on ebay... the only one I can find is NOS, for like $200 plus shipping! There are cheaper "universal" ones that claim to fit the bike, but they look entirely different like this www.z1enterprises.com/yamaha-xs650-clutc...et-holding-tool.html Would that be an acceptable substitute? I don't see how it would work anything like the one you showed, but I've only ever even been in this part of the police version of the J model engine once to replace the stator (bigger stator than the standard J stator, and I know this cuz I bought a J stator and it was smaller than what was in there, so I had to buy a second, police version). I just don't think I can get the money for the OEM tool saved up before it disappears from ebay.

The removal tool isn't too badly priced. Is the Motion Pro one ok? www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-08-0116-Flywhe...ternal/dp/B009J7O7J0

Gazzz made one. 

www.kzrider.com/forum/search?query=Rotor...7/2021&childforums=1

Yeah, I have neither the skill nor the equipment to fabricate one...

What is it doing? Is it turning slowly or not at all? Need more info. The clutch may not be the problem.
Steve

I haven't tried it because I don't want to risk damaging anything, but I'm told it's not "spinning back" once the engine starts, and that it has to do with the shims on the starter clutch making it too tight.

Should I try to start it and see what happens? I'm actually about to go out there and pull the transmission's clutch out because one of my KZ1000-Ps has a slipping clutch and the plates are a direct fit, and I'd rather swap than spend a bunch of money at this time, and every day that clutch is slipping I'm losing money since my primary job is as a motorcycle courier. So if I'm going to be spending money buying plates, I can just do a swap till they get here. That's neither here nor there though since it's on the other side of the engine and has nothing to do with the starter problem the 1100 has.

The illustration below may be helpful.  Reference part 92075/A/B rubber damper, available in three thicknesses:

www.cmsnl.com/kawasaki-kz1100a2-shaft-19...partslist/62113.html