TOPIC:

wrote:

wrote:

There should have been an official Kawasaki bulletin release about this issue, and correction made in the manuals over the years.Kawasaki Heavy Industries, right? 

Maybe, but not necessarily... from what I can see from the citations, the relevant engines were only available for a couple of years before being either discontinued or switched over entirely to Police use only (as in the J model) which has its own service manual, but it's only a supplement to the base model manual, not the full manual... A as a police engine the J model was in production until 2005... Come to think of it, I have hard copy of that... one sec... 

Ok, so it has the cylinder head cover torque at 104 in-lb, but for the cam cap and everything else it just tells you what page to look at in the base model, which it weirdly gives as KZ1000-K and not KZ1000-J...

So if there is a misprint they didn't even catch it as recently as June 2002 which is when my manual was printed. And you'd think that police departments wouldn't put up with a manual that tells you to strip the threads on critical components. Also I'm not sure which Texas meant, the Camshaft Bearing Cap Bolts or the Camshaft chain tensioner cap. They're listed as 12 and 20 ft-lb respectively by the manual he says has misprinted numbers for the "cam cap torque spec." It also lists the cylinder head bolts as 104 in-lb same as the police model service manual, which is weird that it'd agree given all the "refer to base model manual page x" in the police model manual.

There is a guy about 15 miles from me with a service garage and he specializes in KZ1000s, and I can ask him... Come to think of it, I need to go get dressed and go see him anyway and ask him about what to use for flywheel rotor holder tool. I'll ask him about it while I'm down there.

Lastly is this something I even need to be cognizant of if it's true, or was it a general warning? I ask cuz aren't the cams on top and this problem is on the bottom of the engine behind the generator cover?
 

wrote:

wrote:

There should have been an official Kawasaki bulletin release about this issue, and correction made in the manuals over the years.Kawasaki Heavy Industries, right? 

Maybe, but not necessarily... from what I can see from the citations, the relevant engines were only available for a couple of years before being either discontinued or switched over entirely to Police use only (as in the J model) which has its own service manual, but it's only a supplement to the base model manual, not the full manual... A as a police engine the J model was in production until 2005... Come to think of it, I have hard copy of that... one sec... 

Ok, so it has the cylinder head cover torque at 104 in-lb, but for the cam cap and everything else it just tells you what page to look at in the base model, which it weirdly gives as KZ1000-K and not KZ1000-J...

So if there is a misprint they didn't even catch it as recently as June 2002 which is when my manual was printed. And you'd think that police departments wouldn't put up with a manual that tells you to strip the threads on critical components. Also I'm not sure which Texas meant, the Camshaft Bearing Cap Bolts or the Camshaft chain tensioner cap. They're listed as 12 and 20 ft-lb respectively by the manual he says has misprinted numbers for the "cam cap torque spec." It also lists the cylinder head bolts as 104 in-lb same as the police model service manual, which is weird that it'd agree given all the "refer to base model manual page x" in the police model manual.

There is a guy about 15 miles from me with a service garage and he specializes in KZ1000s, and I can ask him... Come to think of it, I need to go get dressed and go see him anyway and ask him about what to use for flywheel rotor holder tool. I'll ask him about it while I'm down there.

Lastly is this something I even need to be cognizant of if it's true, or was it a general warning? I ask cuz aren't the cams on top and this problem is on the bottom of the engine behind the generator cover?



 

Setton post=857513

wrote:

If the starter motor is your problem, then you will be happy to know it is a pretty easy component to remove and work on.

...but if the problem involves the starter clutch-flywheel assembly being too-tight against the engine (rubber spacer too thick), that will be a completely different situation.



 

This sounds like what he's talking about. He mentioned today (he towed the bike over to me today) that to fix it I'll have to get the puller tool for the flywheel, which suggests to me that it's the starter clutch not the starter motor.