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Do you really need a special rectifier/regulator for Lithium Batteries? 18 May 2019 15:54 #804107

  • SWest
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"Clear as mud." :lol: :lol: :lol:
Steve :woohoo:
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Do you really need a special rectifier/regulator for Lithium Batteries? 18 May 2019 23:47 #804134

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SWest wrote: "Clear as mud." :lol: :lol: :lol:
Steve :woohoo:


I should have said hard to read sideways. Here save this Steve. I fixed it for you. :-)

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Do you really need a special rectifier/regulator for Lithium Batteries? 19 May 2019 03:06 #804137

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loudhvx wrote:

weeZee wrote: I seem to remember that the brown voltage sense wire will only ramp up voltage if connected.
People who would boil batteries on old looms would disconnect it.


The regulator uses the brown sense wire to sense system voltage. When the voltage goes up, the regulator reduces output to the battery, and vice versa. Disconnecting it causes the regulator to stop doing anything and full power is output to the battery. Obviously that will boil the battery.


Grounding the sense wire will boil the battery, I recall that leaving the the sense wire disconnected would result in the RR output being a pre-set level rather than a maximum power. But without a unit to test, or the circuit diagram, I can't verify that.

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Do you really need a special rectifier/regulator for Lithium Batteries? 19 May 2019 03:11 #804138

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old_kaw wrote:

dpivas7 wrote: So I'm a mechanical engineer so all of this diode/relay/B+ jargon makes me wanna puke :laugh:

My regulator/rectifier I got from Rick's has 5 wires: 3 for the stator, 1 red (which I think I should connect straight to the positive terminal from what I've gathered), and 1 black that I think connects to the black/yellow wire that goes up to the headlight/main harness.<snip>


Puke? I'm sure at this point it is more like "YAWN" . :-) I apologize for hijacking your thread, but at times it seems more like debates as to what the proper methodology or procedures to follow, and a discussion between the group. Much like my EX girlfriend over-complicating EVERYTHING simple, then not doing ANYTHING because it's just too damn complicated. :woohoo: LOL

You still haven't installed it yet? I figured you had it running a week ago when you said you already had a SH-775. Steve's drawing is as clear as mud. It really takes some studying to make sense out of it. You just eliminate the brown sense wire. Tape it up, add a accessory, leave it in the plug whatever you want.

It wires in the same as the old one the black / yellow to black = ground, white /red to red = B+ and the 3 yellow wires are stator AC, the connection order does not matter. Feeding through the main fuse going from memory.

To clarify.. All is wired in the same as the original R/R less the brown wire. Since you have the pigtail, I would try to hook it into any OEM plugs to keep it all clean and dependable. Easy peasy. :-)

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Now I see why you believe that leaving a sense wire disconnected would result in shunting minimum power via the regulator.

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Do you really need a special rectifier/regulator for Lithium Batteries? 20 May 2019 06:02 #804224

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Just to let everyone know what I did: I did as old_kaw suggested.

I attached the 3 white wires to the 3 yellow stator wires, connected the 1 black to the black/yellow (ground), and I connected the 1 red to the red/white (B+). The red/white I believe (I did this on Saturday and am recalling from memory) went thru the starter relay into the B+ terminal.

Thanks everyone for the help and the information on how Regulator/Rectifiers work!
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Do you really need a special rectifier/regulator for Lithium Batteries? 21 May 2019 13:13 #804313

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weeZee wrote:

loudhvx wrote:

weeZee wrote: I seem to remember that the brown voltage sense wire will only ramp up voltage if connected.
People who would boil batteries on old looms would disconnect it.


The regulator uses the brown sense wire to sense system voltage. When the voltage goes up, the regulator reduces output to the battery, and vice versa. Disconnecting it causes the regulator to stop doing anything and full power is output to the battery. Obviously that will boil the battery.


Grounding the sense wire will boil the battery, I recall that leaving the the sense wire disconnected would result in the RR output being a pre-set level rather than a maximum power. But without a unit to test, or the circuit diagram, I can't verify that.


I think it was already well known grounding the sense line on the regulator would boil the battery. That is, as long as it's not connected to the rest of the brown wire circuit. Grounding the brown wire circuit would obviously blow a fuse.

Grounding the sense line or disconnecting it will have the same result... the regulator not seeing battery voltage. That is what is needed: the sense wire having a clean path to the battery. This has been well-documented on Kzrider for many years.

I was disputing the incorrect assessment that disconnecting the regulator's sense line would stop a battery from boiling. It would make it worse, not better. We are trying to give owners of Kz's good advice. The implied suggestion of disconnecting the sense line will cause damage to the electrical system.
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Do you really need a special rectifier/regulator for Lithium Batteries? 21 May 2019 21:15 #804337

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loudhvx wrote: <snip>

I was disputing the incorrect assessment that disconnecting the regulator's sense line would stop a battery from boiling. It would make it worse, not better. We are trying to give owners of Kz's good advice. The implied suggestion of disconnecting the sense line will cause damage to the electrical system.


I would say that boiling a battery because of a disconnected sense wire is damaging the electrical system, and any other consequences that may occur to a 40 year old wiring harness. Such is the reason I added the diode to make sure that if my relay failed, that it would hold down the output voltage through the original brown wire less the .7 V diode voltage drop.

I think this charge rate voltage will damage something. Electricity is funny, and this would push any marginal components over the edge.

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Do you really need a special rectifier/regulator for Lithium Batteries? 21 May 2019 21:22 #804338

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I suspect a lithium battery would have grenaded well before anything like that happened. :whistle:
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Do you really need a special rectifier/regulator for Lithium Batteries? 22 May 2019 13:08 #804369

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So what are you supposed to do with the now disconnected sense wire? I don't have anything to connect it to at least coming from the R/R.

One could connect a diode to the sense wire, but what does the other end of the diode connect to?

NOTE: I have the red wire from the R/R connected to the B+ voltage thru the starter relay which made sense when looking at the wiring diagram and based on some of the responses.
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Do you really need a special rectifier/regulator for Lithium Batteries? 22 May 2019 13:21 #804370

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Cut it off at the plug or tape it so it won't short out.
Steve
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Do you really need a special rectifier/regulator for Lithium Batteries? 22 May 2019 14:32 #804374

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dpivas7 wrote: So what are you supposed to do with the now disconnected sense wire? I don't have anything to connect it to at least coming from the R/R.

One could connect a diode to the sense wire, but what does the other end of the diode connect to?

NOTE: I have the red wire from the R/R connected to the B+ voltage thru the starter relay which made sense when looking at the wiring diagram and based on some of the responses.


When converting to a type of regulator that uses the output wire for voltage sensing, you leave the harness side of the sensing wire unconnected. If you have to pull it out of a connector, make sure to tape it off like Swest said. Make sure it does not make contact with ground since that will blow a fuse.

There is no use for a diode in that configuration. The diode was for a different application, as a safety device.
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Do you really need a special rectifier/regulator for Lithium Batteries? 22 May 2019 16:56 #804386

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loudhvx wrote:

weeZee wrote:

loudhvx wrote:

weeZee wrote: I seem to remember that the brown voltage sense wire will only ramp up voltage if connected.
People who would boil batteries on old looms would disconnect it.


The regulator uses the brown sense wire to sense system voltage. When the voltage goes up, the regulator reduces output to the battery, and vice versa. Disconnecting it causes the regulator to stop doing anything and full power is output to the battery. Obviously that will boil the battery.


Grounding the sense wire will boil the battery, I recall that leaving the the sense wire disconnected would result in the RR output being a pre-set level rather than a maximum power. But without a unit to test, or the circuit diagram, I can't verify that.


I think it was already well known grounding the sense line on the regulator would boil the battery. That is, as long as it's not connected to the rest of the brown wire circuit. Grounding the brown wire circuit would obviously blow a fuse.

Grounding the sense line or disconnecting it will have the same result... the regulator not seeing battery voltage. That is what is needed: the sense wire having a clean path to the battery. This has been well-documented on Kzrider for many years.

I was disputing the incorrect assessment that disconnecting the regulator's sense line would stop a battery from boiling. It would make it worse, not better. We are trying to give owners of Kz's good advice. The implied suggestion of disconnecting the sense line will cause damage to the electrical system.


Why would a disconnected sense wire drive the output voltage up? It's internally connected to the voltage comparator and the output voltage via a resistor divider network. Do you have some circuits or R/R where a sense wire is the only connection to the comparator? Without the sense wire connected to a harness node with a lower voltage, there is nothing to pull down the resistor network. If you have some Shingengen specs or circuit measurements, can you post them here for verification please.

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