TOPIC:

Hello all,

I just purchased an 81 KZ1000 CSR. When I bought it, it was not running. I took off the tank and the vacuum/fuel lines were a mess. I sorted those out, and voila it started right up. Sounds really good! No knocks, sputters, anything. I let it get to operating temp while adjusting the idle and making sure no fuel was leaking etc. Then I shut it off.

The next night, I worked on the tail light/brake light to get them working.

Two nights later, I come out to start it as I want to go fill the tank with fresh gas, nothing happens. I turn the key to run, push the start button and no clicks or any sounds. I look and the Neutral light isn't lighting up so I did some looking in the manual and the only safety/kill switch other than the start button is the clutch lever. So I took my multimeter to it and it works, passes voltage through when pressed. So I test the starter button itself, and it is sending voltage through to the starter solanoid. It's only sending about 1 volt, and I'm not sure if that's enough to kick the starter relay. Can't find specs on how much voltage is passed through in the manual

Anywho, Today I go out there, and bypass the starter solenoid (jump it) and the starter turns over fine, but the bike won't start. I haven't checked spark yet, but that's the next thing I'm going to do, then check power to the coils if I'm not getting spark.

My gut tells me there's a ground that worked it's way loose somewhere, I just don't know where. Hhas anyone heard of the KZ1000 doing something like this? I've searched and can't find much/any with the same issue.

When I went out to check, the starter solenoid switch leg is getting around 10-20 millivolts when the start button is pressed. Is this enough? That sounds low to me.

That is not nearly enough. You should see very close to full battery voltage, that is, more than 12 v.
Check the voltage at the battery with the key off, then watch what happens when you turn the key on, then when you hit the start button.
If there is less than 12.4v or so at the battery with nothing on, it is either discharged or dead. Recharge or replace the battery.
If there is normal voltage with the key off, but it drops noticeably whith the key on, their is a short, or the battery is dead.
If the first two tests show full voltage, then try pressing the start button, if the voltage drops very little, there is likely a disconnectd wire or bad fuse or fuses. If the voltage drops significantly, there is a dead short or the battery is toast.
If you live near an auto,parts store, or an Interstae Battery store, you can get the battery load tested for free. Once you are sure the battery is good, you can start chasing the ore gremlins.

Thanks Tex,

I spent most of yesterday tearing the bike apart and chasing down voltage. I stupidly thought all fuses were good from a visual inspection and my chasing down voltage led me to the Horn/Ignition Fuse. Once I took it out of the fuse block and tested continuity, I found the culprit. Used the tail light fuse just to be sure and the bike started right up.

Thanks for your help!

Find out what made the fuse blow.
Steve

Yup, those glass fuses can be deceiving. The solder in them gets old and brittle and can let go, but still look good. Evenso, it would be a good idea to be sure there is not a more serious reason for the bad fuse.

TexasKZ wrote: Yup, those glass fuses can be deceiving. The solder in them gets old and brittle and can let go, but still look good. Evenso, it would be a good idea to be sure there is not a more serious reason for the bad fuse.

We've seen that too. The solder joint connecting the fusible link to the end caps crack, resulting in a fuse that looks good visually but is electrically open or worse, intermittent.

Z1's have only one, 20A main fuse. If the fuse opens while the bike is running it fries all the bulbs, the points etc. Ugly.

A couple of bullet connectors and a weatherproof blade fuse carrier will get a modern blade fuse in service easily without butchering the wiring harness.


Good Ridin'
slmjim & Z1BEBE

Even on the newer bikes, it is not really difficult to replace the fuse box with a modern one. If you want a fully weather proof one, you can install one designed for marine use.