TOPIC:

Gotta love the Japanese translation on webike:)
Are you planning on getting another dynotune?

Do we know why there are two curves here?

If the Factory ignition timing falls between the two lines when testing its considered good to go,

So does the factory ZR550 have 35 degrees max timing ? Ive found somebody wrecking one and was thinking about grabbing the ignition off it

I have experienced some pretty crazy death rattle s from mechanical advance under high load and low rpm, in sixth i think i would drop down a gear or two

Like Wozza said, the FSM specifies a range. The real curve is meant to be between the two lines. So you can assume the real target curve is a line drawn exactly between the two lines shown.

Wozza wrote: Are you planning on getting another dynotune?

Yes, probably week after next. I'll post results. I'd be very surprised if I didn't pick up a few hp across the whole rev range.

Wozza wrote: So does the factory ZR550 have 35 degrees max timing ? Ive found somebody wrecking one and was thinking about grabbing the ignition off it

Here are the zr550 numbers from a pic Corey posted in another thread.

Here's As Uotani's (Google translated) response about the function of the blue wire -

The blue line of the SP2 kit "00324 SP II Full Power Kit (K. ZEPHYR 400)" is a pulse output line for external electrical tachometers.
Digital pulse, 1 pulse / rotation.
It is not used when it is not necessary.

I think that's further evidence that the grey wire on the zr400/European-spec zr550 indeed does nothing as currently installed. Seems it was originally intended to provide signal to a tachometer.

Huh. So it appears the blue wire has nothing to do with the extra wire on the Zr400/550, as those bikes get a tach signal from the coil.

So the extra wire on those bikes is still a mystery. It would be nice to know what that wire does on those bikes.

Alright, I have a tuning session scheduled for the 21st. Looking forward to it and I'll post results after.

Question - think I could swap the green/black interlock wire for the black/yellow wire to provide ground to the igniter and restore the kickstand safety feature? I wouldn't worry about it if I were great about making sure the kickstand is up before taking off...but I space it occasionally.

Zaddict wrote: Question - think I could swap the green/black interlock wire for the black/yellow wire to provide ground to the igniter and restore the kickstand safety feature? I wouldn't worry about it if I were great about making sure the kickstand is up before taking off...but I space it occasionally.

I highly advise against that. The output driver of the igniter is almost always designed with a bleed-off circuit for when the coil's induced flyback voltage is too high for the driver to handle. The bleed-off path is to ground. If you remove that safety path by removing the ground you will force excessive voltage on the control circuit. This is likely why Kz igniters use a separate interlock wire rather than removing the igniter's ground.

A much better idea would be to use a relay to remove the power source to the coils. The relay should also include a diode to dissipate any induced voltage when the relay tries to open the circuit.

loudhvx wrote:

Zaddict wrote: Question - think I could swap the green/black interlock wire for the black/yellow wire to provide ground to the igniter and restore the kickstand safety feature? I wouldn't worry about it if I were great about making sure the kickstand is up before taking off...but I space it occasionally.

I highly advise against that. The output driver of the igniter is almost always designed with a bleed-off circuit for when the coil's induced flyback voltage is too high for the driver to handle. The bleed-off path is to ground. If you remove that safety path by removing the ground you will force excessive voltage on the control circuit. This is likely why Kz igniters use a separate interlock wire rather than removing the igniter's ground.

A much better idea would be to use a relay to remove the power source to the coils. The relay should also include a diode to dissipate any induced voltage when the relay tries to open the circuit.

Ah, well that's very good to know, thanks for the warning! I was wondering why the igniters seem to have 2 grounds. I could set up a relay to remove the power to coils easily enough. You think that would be preferable to interrupting power to the igniter? I'm not sure how I'd use a diode to dissipate induced voltage. My understanding of diodes is they're like one way valves for current - where would it go and in which direction?

The problem is in turning off the ignition without causing a backfire, and/or arcing the contacts of the relay.

There are several options.
One is to live with the chance of a backfire. This would be the simplest option. You would simply wire a relay so that the neutral switch and kickstand switch were in parallel. As long as either one is made, the relay stays energized and power is routed to the coils. The kickstand switch would be closed whenever the kickstand is up. If the kickstand is down, then the neutral switch must be closed (trans in neutral). In order for the neutral light to function normally, a diode would be required, but I assume you would be using the normal interlock wire which already has diodes in place. The only question is if the diode block can handle enough power to power the relay. I would think it can. It will take about 1/4 amp.

Another option is wire the relay so the contacts interrupt the pickup signal. I'm not sure what this would do regarding backfires. I personally don't like the idea of having something in the pickup wire path in case it induces noise or some other interference.

A third option is to wire the relay as in the first option, but use a heavy duty, 25 or 50v Zener diode in parallel with the relay contacts... probably 2 watt or higher if you can get it. A zener is what is typically used as that aforementioned safety valve to protect the output driver. But in this case the voltage will be selected much lower (they are usually rated in the 300 to 400 volt range to protect the driver) so that a spark will hopefully not occur when the relay opens.

The same drawing can be used for option 1 or 3. You just leave off the part labeled "Z1".
The kickstand switch, neutral switch, and diode are shown for reference. They are not necessarily how your bike is wired, but is how one would wire it from scratch if they had to. You would just connect your interlock wire to the D1 and pin 86 junction.

Here's a link to the Zener diode (Z1). It's about 50 cents each. You might want to get a couple if you have that kind of cash available.
The other diode "D1" can be found at digikey also. It's a very common part. If Radio Shack was around, they would have had it.
D1 can be a 1N4001 or 1N4002 or 1N4003 etc. The specs are slightly different, but won't matter in this application.
1N5368BRLG
www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/on-sem...68BRLGOSCT-ND/893871

loudhvx wrote: The problem is in turning off the ignition without causing a backfire, and/or arcing the contacts of the relay.

There are several options.
One is to live with the chance of a backfire. This would be the simplest option. You would simply wire a relay so that the neutral switch and kickstand switch were in parallel. As long as either one is made, the relay stays energized and power is routed to the coils. The kickstand switch would be closed whenever the kickstand is up. If the kickstand is down, then the neutral switch must be closed (trans in neutral). In order for the neutral light to function normally, a diode would be required, but I assume you would be using the normal interlock wire which already has diodes in place. The only question is if the diode block can handle enough power to power the relay. I would think it can. It will take about 1/4 amp.

Another option is wire the relay so the contacts interrupt the pickup signal. I'm not sure what this would do regarding backfires. I personally don't like the idea of having something in the pickup wire path in case it induces noise or some other interference.

A third option is to wire the relay as in the first option, but use a heavy duty, 25 or 50v Zener diode in parallel with the relay contacts... probably 2 watt or higher if you can get it. A zener is what is typically used as that aforementioned safety valve to protect the output driver. But in this case the voltage will be selected much lower (they are usually rated in the 300 to 400 volt range to protect the driver) so that a spark will hopefully not occur when the relay opens.

The same drawing can be used for option 1 or 3. You just leave off the part labeled "Z1".
The kickstand switch, neutral switch, and diode are shown for reference. They are not necessarily how your bike is wired, but is how one would wire it from scratch if they had to. You would just connect your interlock wire to the D1 and pin 86 junction.

Here's a link to the Zener diode (Z1). It's about 50 cents each. You might want to get a couple if you have that kind of cash available.
The other diode "D1" can be found at digikey also. It's a very common part. If Radio Shack was around, they would have had it.
D1 can be a 1N4001 or 1N4002 or 1N4003 etc. The specs are slightly different, but won't matter in this application.
1N5368BRLG
www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/on-sem...68BRLGOSCT-ND/893871

This is amazing.  I'll give option #3 a shot.  Thanks very much Lou!

OK, I'm finally getting around to installing the kickstand safety switch relay Lou designed. I have one point of confusion - should I be interrupting power to the igniter or between the igniter and the coils? I'm assuming it's the latter but want to double check.

The relay only interrupts the power to the coils. Power to the igniter stays on.