1980 KZ1000E2

A short video of my current electrical state. Will check for spark at the plugs today. I get leery of checking for spark and aux gas at the same time. BTDT with fire before so I will let her sit overnight.

1. Still have total fault at the battery when the regulator is connected.
2. I went through wiring at the reg, igniter battery box area. The wires are all intact with no major breaks or tears.
3. I didn't get any DC reading across the main fuse box on the the three circuits.
4. Manual not here ye so I did not run a meter on reg or igniter.
5. When reg disconnected I have key power and keyed coil energy of 6v getting each coil.
6. Lights, neutral indicator, oil pressure light and all other things seems to work.
7. No start.

I am at the point where I have to hear it run, even crappy before going forward with either a engine pul or further cosmetic. Parted out I can get my purchase price back, but I need to hear it fire and end the short.



Any input appreciated.

R

rrsmsw9999 wrote: . . . have total fault at the battery when the regulator is connected . . . am at the point where I have to hear it run, even crappy before going forward . . . need to hear it fire and end the short. . . .

Engine can be test run using ignition circuit only, without connecting any of the charging circuit components such as the regulator, etc..

Good Fortune!

Did you try running a jumper from the battery to the hot leads to the coils? 6V is not enough.
Steve

No but will try that. 6v a piece not enough eh? I need my manual to get here soon I will try the jumper and will be dealing with spark wires tonight and test for spark tonight. Any idea what would cause the voltage drop. Battery is 12.8v at terminals and good. It's out of the other bike. If I hear it run, will get it warn enough to test compression. Being optimistic here. I think I may have several electrical problems. R

Disconnect the hot leads to the coils first. Having 6V might be a indication your short is in that circuit.
Steve

If you post the photos to photobucket, I won't be able to see them. Just post them to the Kzrider server. Patton has a post that shows you how.

Take a photo of the coil wires so we can see them clearly. If the wires are pink, then that bike came with a ballast resistor in the wiring before the coils. That would cause low voltage to the coils while energized.

However, if the coils are not energized, as in the crank is not turning, there should be no drop and you should measure battery voltage on both ends of the coils when the ignition is turned on. IF the cranks is not turning, and you are getting this drop, then the drop is due to losses elsewhere, and you need to find that, or else one of the igniter circuits is shorted. Measure the voltage at both primary wires on both coils, while the meter's black lead is on battery ground.

Another check is to measure the primary resistance on the coils. If it is lower than 2 ohms, on both coils, this would confirm there is likely a ballast resistor.

A check with the diagram would confirm this as well. Does anyone have a 1980 Kz1000E (shaft) wireing diagram, or even a 1979 Kz1000E1 ?

I have a simplified version on the Mattylight thread. Post number #497170. Top of Page 13

If those are green Dyna coils, they need 12V to operate.
Steve

swest wrote: If those are green Dyna coils, they need 12V to operate.
Steve

Thanks, I went back and searched his other posts. Should have mentioned them on this thread.

Yes, the green Dyna coils you have will need 12v. So the ballast needs to be eliminated, if it is still in circuit.

But the voltage test still needs to be done while the crank is not turning. If the voltage is 6v at the coils, and the crank is not turning, the voltage should be 6v on all four primary coil connections, and there is a loss somewhere else.

If it's 6v while cranking, that might be ok (but the ballast needs to be removed/bypassed).

Well, I did the jumper set up from battery to coils.



No spark at all from coils. I went through the loom some. There is a few minor melts but nothing broken or chaffed.


I do think the coil wires are pink. Without a manual I am at a loss to find a ballast.


Pulled most plugs on loom and rehooked. No starter now. I need a dam manual with a diagram. UPS guy must be on vacation.

Diode tested the rectifier, it's bad.
The battery box is rusted and I couldn't get a piece that has to come off to remove the box all the way.

I am guessing if I have a full short it's under the box.

Thanks for the info. The dyna coils would not spark even with straight battery.

A bit defeated. I think I am gonna need some cash to get running. Any other thoughts?

Anybody need parts? Hahaha

R

3/99 is the manufacture date on the coils. Supposed;y this bike ran when put away. I doubt it. R

Me too. Do you get a spark when you touch the input on each coil?
Steve

Left side yes, right side nothing. R