1978 KZ1000 Starter clutch question

All right...I got the bolt out! I ended up using a vise grip chain wrench, moved it all the way to the back of the rotor so it was not sitting on the magnets, and voila.
For removal, the only ball bearing I have is 3/8", I took a magnet and put it in the hole and it seems to fit, so Ill take the rear axle out and give it a whirl...

z1kzonly wrote:

swest wrote: When you get the bolt off, there's a trick to get the rotor off too.
Steve

Here is the Factory tool. 16mm thread. And you need a round ball bearing to go in between the end of crank were that bolt you can't get out, and the tool. You can use a swing arm axle also. But you need to make a spacer out of a hardened grade 8 bolt. Grind end round to simulate a ball bearing up against the crank. Then adjust for lenght the other end. Then just screw axle in. Might have to hold rotor with a strap or if bike is still together, put bike in gear and hold brake, (2 people).
Sometimes they pop right off the tapered end with the keyway or they fight ya'.
Look at the end of this tool. It is smashed over, mushroomed at end, from beating on it, to break loose rotor. And this is even cleaned up on the grinder.
This tool has removed a lot of rotors. I have spun a lot to over the years, ruining them. That's why the new bigger cranks don't use a key way. They are hard as hell to get off also.
I have nothing to show you, all my engine parts are gone.

It sounds like the PO locktighted a non-standard bolt into the crank. in my experience, applying some heat and PB plaster to a locktighted bolt does the trick. A small torch (propane for soldering copper pipes) should be all the heat you would need. Be patient because I'm fairly certain you don't want to destroy the crank and rebuild the motor. Once the bolt is out you can use the chrome bolt from the top triple-tree and a ball bearing to pull off the rotor (assuming the rotor wasn't jacked with). Sounds like you're blowing out the clutch plates by standing on the brake with the bike in gear and standing on a wrench to break that bolt loose. Before you panic and replace the clutch, change the case oil (use JOSA MA oil; check manual on weight, but 10W-40 is common), get it running and driving and see how the clutch responds. Also keep in mind that a new rotor is about $600, so back to patience, heat, PB Blaster, get the bolt off, don't destroy. haha. hope this helps. Good luck.

$600.00.... holy crap! Don't want to break that part. I just got the bolt out, using a Vise Grip chain wrench on the rotor, and a 3' breaker bar, applied pressure (while holding my breath ) and it came out. Yeah, I'm not going to freak out over the clutch. When I changed the oil and filter, I put in the same thing I use in all my bikes, 10w40 Rotella TT, so when I get her going Ill run it a bit and see how she does.

I have never actually taken a triple tree apart... I can just remove the top bolt and everything will stay in place?

Thanks!
Skip

Yes. You will need to loosen the bolt that pinches the top of the tree to the steerer tube and then take the large chrome bolt put. Nothing should move or go out of alignment because the front fork clamps will keep it all together. Take out the large chrome bolt. It should be the exact same size as the threads in the rotor (not the crank). Check it by hand first. If it's good put the ball bearing in and tightened the bolt down and the rotor should slide off the crank. I believe that year has a key between rotor and crank so keep an eye out for it. Once the rotor is out of the way you can slide the starter clutch off and see what's what. Most common issue is that all three bolts come loose.

Yes but you don't want to ruin the chrome. I have a old one I don't care about so I can smack it with a hammer. The rotors can be a bear to get off.
Steve

Very true Steve. Especially since we've seen some fine PO work already the rotor may not want to give it up without a fight. I was able to use a large plastic mallet (one of those sand fillet orange ones) to help things along. Hopefully you will get lucky and not need much persuasion.

Well, thanks guys. Ill try the triple tree bolt, if for no other reason than it might be less hassle than removing the rear axle. I have a couple of rubber and plastic mallets, so I think I can wail on the bolt, if need be, and not damage the triple tree bolt.... because I am *so* tired of buying parts for this bike!
In his for sale ad the PO said that the bike needed a 'little bit of love'; if by that he meant 30 days straight in a house of ill repute, then yeah, that sounds about right

The axle bolt is too big. You might go to AZ or OR and rent a puller. The swing arm bolt is the right size. The bolt you're talking about is soft.
Steve

Well, I tried using the triple tree bolt, and no go. First off, I had a hard time threading it in...I felt the threads on the inside of the rotor, and they felt kinda crunchy, don't know how a PO managed THAT! Anyhow, working it slowly in and out I was able to run the bolt in far enough to contact the ball bearing i put in there. Carefully wacked the bolt a few times (did not want to screw up the finish) but nothing. Maybe I will go to AZ and see if they have a puller. I am SO close, but do not want to break anything. Besides, I am committed now; the ball bearing I put in there does not want to seem to come out :woohoo:

In my experience the 78s have the small end crank, without a woodruff key, which makes the rotor install and removal a PITA, also mine had a similar bolt in it.

What would I know, my 73 that got stolen had a 78 motor in it, and my 78 had a 78 motor in it. Never had a 1000 with a woodruff key and I've had 7 or 8 (78-81 mostly 80 ltds) good luck, would bet there is loctite locking compound on that crank end

Take a rod and tap on the ball bearing until it gets loose. What you need is a puller that screws on. I used lock tight on a old rotor I thought was wobbling. I had to heat it up until the pressure of the bolt popped it off.
Steve

With this previous owner *who knows* what he might have done. All I do know is I am disinclined to start beating on it with a big hammer, of which I have several (hmmmm, they say when your only tool is a hammer, all your problems look like nails, I hate to think what that says about my mechanical endeavors:)) sooo, Ill guess Ill head to a parts store tomorrow and see if I can borrow a puller.

floivanus wrote: In my experience the 78s have the small end crank, without a woodruff key, which makes the rotor install and removal a PITA, also mine had a similar bolt in it.

What would I know, my 73 that got stolen had a 78 motor in it, and my 78 had a 78 motor in it. Never had a 1000 with a woodruff key and I've had 7 or 8 (78-81 mostly 80 ltds) good luck, would bet there is loctite locking compound on that crank end