1978 KZ1000 Starter clutch question

Hi All,
I have searched this and other forums on the starter clutch not working issue and I think I have my brain wrapped around most of it, except how to get the freaking alternator rotor off! I have it down that far, but cannot get that bolt to budge, not with big breaker bars, an air impact wrench, *nothing*. The last thing I tried was the impact, while holding the rotor with a rubber strap wrench; no bueno.
First of all, am I correct in assuming that the threads are 'left hand', meaning to loosen you turn right, instead of lefty loosey? My manual does not say, but the consensus online is left hand. Is there some (safe) place to put a bar or screwdriver to immobilize the gears, while I crank on it with a breaker bar? I tried that with the rubber strap tool, but pulled on the breaker bar until I was certain the strap wrench was about to break, so I stopped, and could not budge it an inch. Help!!! I have the bike running, and the starter works occasionally, but slips a lot, so I would not consider it roadworthy until I fix this!

If it's the 13mm hex bolt, it right handed. Think about it this way. While watching the rotor, the cranks rotates to the left. A right handed bolt will only get tighter when spun. Also when I attack any bolts that rotate, I put it in first, then press down on the brake lever to loosen them. A pic would be helpful.
Steve

It is a 14mm bolt, but now that I think of it, the 14mm socket 'rocks' a little bit while on the bolt, but the 13mm does not fit. Here is a picture.

WTF are you thinking? This is not a Harley. The crank end does not have a left hand thread!!!!!
And that bolt in your picture is not a stock bolt! OEM is a 12mm head! with a thick 6mm washer!
Has this been your bike? Or did you buy it like this? Previous owner might have put different bolt and "red" lock tight on that different bolt also, your lucky you did not snap the bolt off so far!
Am I missing something here?

You're right. It should be a 12. Unless the PO put a different crank in it, then it would be a 14. I'll bet ha monkeyed with the starter springs, lost a roller or something.
Steve

When you get the bolt off, there's a trick to get the rotor off too.
Steve

That is a small 22mm end crank. Early style Z1-KZ thru 78. Has the key way on the rotor. Good thing is, insides all look real clean and nice shape. Good Luck

Its not a Harley?? Damn, I'm on the wrong forum It has not been my bike, I have only had it for two months. It is only the second Kaw I have had, the first being a 1996 KZP. I have never even seen an alternator in the wild until this bike. To further confuse/complicate matters, according to the serial number on top of the case, behind the clutch cover, the motor is from a 1978 Z1R (KZT00DE- xxxxxx)

Yeah, I did not think the bolt should be this hard to remove, and I did, for grins, try running the bolt to the correct direction, the left, same result. I guess Ill regroup tomorrow, maybe try a little heat on it first, in case he did put some red loctite on the bolt.

The previous owner did do some fun stuff to this bike. When I bought it, I noticed it had a small leak under the stator cover. He said yeah, he tried to 'fix it' but was not successful. When I first took the stator cover off, I noticed he had a huge glob of RTV on the rubber plug the alternator wires go through. I further noticed that the bottom two bolts for the cover were stripped out; I think we can all guess how *that* happened. I already have a new plug for it, which I will install right after I fix the two stripped bolt holes

swest wrote: When you get the bolt off, there's a trick to get the rotor off too.
Steve

Here is the Factory tool. 16mm thread. And you need a round ball bearing to go in between the end of crank were that bolt you can't get out, and the tool. You can use a swing arm axle also. But you need to make a spacer out of a hardened grade 8 bolt. Grind end round to simulate a ball bearing up against the crank. Then adjust for lenght the other end. Then just screw axle in. Might have to hold rotor with a strap or if bike is still together, put bike in gear and hold brake, (2 people).
Sometimes they pop right off the tapered end with the keyway or they fight ya'.
Look at the end of this tool. It is smashed over, mushroomed at end, from beating on it, to break loose rotor. And this is even cleaned up on the grinder.
This tool has removed a lot of rotors. I have spun a lot to over the years, ruining them. That's why the new bigger cranks don't use a key way. They are hard as hell to get off also.
I have nothing to show you, all my engine parts are gone.

Thanks for the information...that tool in your picture looks like it has seen some serious use! I was just out in the garage to take another run at it, and noticed something else. I put the bike in gear, sat on it so I could apply the rear brake and put the wrench on nut to try to turn counter-clockwise, and the rotor just turns. It is turning the motor over because there is some resistance and I can hear air moving thru carbs. What exactly is this telling me? A problem with the clutch or transmission? As I said, I have only had it for two months, have gotten it running, but have not tried to ride it yet. The bike was sitting for a while before I got it, 6 months to a year, not exactly sure.

I was thinking maybe take a piece of smaller angle iron, notching it with a grinder so I have a couple of tabs that I can insert into the indents in the end of the rotor to hold it while I turn the bolt out. If done carefully, would it be safe to do?