New bike ...No spark

New to being a bike owner!! Finally
I bought a 1980 kz250 project- cause it's not running. I have power to the ignition coil, bike turns over but no spark? It came with a universal 12v coil and it is getting hot. Is this my issue? Also when I flick the kill switch over it sends a spark?? Bizarre right.

Any ideas are much appreciated!!

Does the bike have ignition points, or electronic ignition? Do you have a shop manual? www.repairmanual.com is one place to get one.

Nice looking ride. Hopefully, this will be an easy fix and you can get on the road soon. As MFolks suggests, a genuine Kawasaki service manual will be the most important tool in your toolbox.

Check your kill switch for shorted wires clean your contacts
on your switch.Take it from there check your coil,check your
plug wires ,points or the electronic ignition igniter,check yor spark plugs...Not sure what
type of igninion system you have? It's a process of elimination
hopefully you'll find the problem easy.Like every one says get a service manual.

Yes- def need a shop manual. Feel like I'm blind without it, and have found 0 electronic ones or parts of one to use. It does have points and condenser. I've replaced the spark plug wire, took apart the switch and cleaned it all- test light shows power where it needs to be. Good power to the coil... Nothing from the coil. Only universal coils are available now for this model though... So are there recommended ones over others? I have a emgo unit on there now.

Thanks

Check your points not sure what the gap is on your 250 ? My kz900
the gap is between 0.012 and 0 .016 see if the points are pitted
or need replacing..Found this online it refers to cars but
same as motorcycles.Try this first find the correct point gap.
and adjust or replace points.I'm not sure if one ignition coil
is better than a other as long as you have the right amount
of ohms you need .

www.glenngoodspeed.com/volvo/POINTS.HTM

You may also want to check the coil before buying a new one.Do you have a ohmmeter?
You need to check the primary and secondary resistance.I'm sure
there are other members here that can give you more iinformation

See if you have power going to the points.
Steve

Power on both posts of the coil (single coil bike, single post for single plug! Lol)
Power is going to the points if I don't have it screwed in place.. As soon as I attach it----power to that lead goes? Is this right?

Vwnik wrote: Power on both posts of the coil (single coil bike, single post for single plug! Lol)
Power is going to the points if I don't have it screwed in place.. As soon as I attach it----power to that lead goes? Is this right?

Yes sort of... but only if the points are closed, shorted to ground somewhere at their mounting point or if the electrical connector(s) and springs are not insulated from the bracket.
The point's springs should be hot with 9.5vdc-12vdc when the points are open also. That is how the DC voltage is applied to the actual contact points from the coil's primary side. When closed, the coils charge up (and and get hot if charged all the time).
When the points open, the magnetic fields collapse and the coil's secondary discharges through the HT leads to the spark plugs.
If no VDC when the points are open, mounting them down is shorting them out to the chassis somehow.

Lol wouldn't believe it--- po had the wire on the points installed wrong. It was sending power to the wrong side(powering the engine, which is the ground) duh. Bike is up and running. Just now have to set gap of points. Anyone know what this is?? No manual yet: it's in the mail

Vwnik wrote: Lol wouldn't believe it--- po had the wire on the points installed wrong. It was sending power to the wrong side(powering the engine, which is the ground) duh. Bike is up and running. Just now have to set gap of points. Anyone know what this is?? No manual yet: it's in the mail

Cool!! Most all of the KZ engines with points use a point gap in the .014" range.

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