new to the kawi an seriously frustrated already

Not knowing the state of his battery, charging system, wires to ground and over all state of the wires I am guessing he may have a problem that running the bike may fix. I have had countless bikes that for one reason or another when the bike is not running the directional would not blink unless you started the bike. Most of the time its because of a weak battery. If the rider does find the lights blink while the bike is running they can then chase down why they were not blinking when the bike was off and fix the problem.
As for the led yes I have converted a few over and the resistors mimic the original resistance that you would have with stock lights. Since the leds have little resistance they will not get the stock flashers to work when you dont use the resistors.

A LED is set for a particular voltage. They have a resister built in for that. If no resister, it will keep getting brighter until it burns out.
Steve

When i put the e12 wich is notivas upgrade to the 522 it actually dulled out the led but still stayed constant so i picked up another relay to see if that will work otherwise ill be totally lost

Unrelated. The rear of the frame has been cut off.
Check to make sure cross bracing has been welded to the rear of the frame near the shock mounts.
Also, is the engine/sprocket cover missing?

An LED combined with proper current-limiting resistor (sometimes called "ballast") will have much higher resistance than a normal tail/brake bulb. In fact, so much so, that there is not enough current to activate the original thermal-wire flasher.

To get more current to flow, you add another resistor in parallel to the LED+Ballast. This additional resistor just dissipates power as heat to draw extra current. This is a crude method, and defeats the power-saving advantage of the LED.

The preferred way is to get a flasher that is not load dependent. Some "electronic" flashers are advertised as "not load dependent", but in fact, they still have a slight sensitivity to load. Some truly electronic flashers can work with LED bulbs with no extra resistors.

loudhvx wrote: An LED combined with proper current-limiting resistor (sometimes called "ballast") will have much higher resistance than a normal tail/brake bulb. In fact, so much so, that there is not enough current to activate the original thermal-wire flasher.

To get more current to flow, you add another resistor in parallel to the LED+Ballast. This additional resistor just dissipates power as heat to draw extra current. This is a crude method, and defeats the power-saving advantage of the LED.

The preferred way is to get a flasher that is not load dependent. Some "electronic" flashers are advertised as "not load dependent", but in fact, they still have a slight sensitivity to load. Some truly electronic flashers can work with LED bulbs with no extra resistors.

Thank you.... might points exactly.
IMHO, there is no method using a resistor, in circuit, that makes any sense, if converting to LEDs.
The whole idea being to use less current....

loudhvx wrote: An LED combined with proper current-limiting resistor (sometimes called "ballast") will have much higher resistance than a normal tail/brake bulb. In fact, so much so, that there is not enough current to activate the original thermal-wire flasher.

To get more current to flow, you add another resistor in parallel to the LED+Ballast. This additional resistor just dissipates power as heat to draw extra current. This is a crude method, and defeats the power-saving advantage of the LED.

The preferred way is to get a flasher that is not load dependent. Some "electronic" flashers are advertised as "not load dependent", but in fact, they still have a slight sensitivity to load. Some truly electronic flashers can work with LED bulbs with no extra resistors.

So i should be looking for a flasher with no load dependencies? Could this also be the reason why my flashers on the dash stopped flashing and just stay solid?

I really wish someone whos good with electrical was close im horrible with electrical and idk if it makes a diff that the leds are the strips from like autozone not the bullet style led lights or anything like that

I have a LED strip on the back of my top box for the brake light. Works great but my outage indicator stays on dimly. Possible bleed over or some kind of transient voltage? I don't know. Works great though and when I put on the brakes the light works like it should in my gauge. They have a built in resister but I think they're right, you need the right flasher relay.
Steve

So i think im making progress i got the brake light to go out some idiot ran a wire all the way up to the headlight ripped that jammy out so i can try and get all the factory wires tapped in found out the rear brake switch was all disconnected so i followed the wires and plugged it all in now i have to figure out what the few wires hanging near the fuse box are ill post a pic to see if anyone has any ideas

These are the wires the lower one is a white with black tracer the top two are both yellow with black tracers one has a ground ring on it... if anyone has any ideas please lmk im gunna refer to the wiring diagram to try and figure it out

Figured out the brake light problem the running light was what was on constant (duh) but they had the wrong llhousing its only a 2 wire housing when it needs to be 3 so had no brake still workin on the signal problem

You know it's normal for the indicator light not to flash if a bulb is burned out.
Steve