starter motor vs push starting??

Most bikes will have a tough time in first, with the tire skidding, unless you jump on it and release the clutch at exactly the right time. Getting it right is actually fun and very satisfying. Ive done up to a 750, but I don't think a 1000 would be as "fun" :laugh: . A 305 should be easy. 400's are a piece of cake.

If you don't want to do the jumping on part, you can use a higher gear, but then you have to get the bike going faster to get enough RPMs.

Second gear on the 1000 is no problem.
Steve

Wow! The voltage to the coil is really low:
Cranking: 7.5 VDC
Not cranking: 9.5 VDC

Battery Voltage seems OK:
Cranking: 10.5 VDC
Not Cranking: 12.2 VDC

Where is there a wiring diagram for the 305?

Thanks,
HH

I just measured voltages in my fuse box. There are three fuses. One is always energized the other two are switched by the key. The ones that are switched by the key are both low on voltage just like the coil. It runs about 10 VDC when not cranking and about 8 VDC when cranking. What actually switches the battery to the harness when the key is turned?

Thanks,
HH

Sounds like time to buy a little spray can of DeOxit and take apart and clean the barrel, pin connectors, nut and bolt terminals, junctions on the relays... take all of them apart one at a time and clean them up real good.
Also, remove the kill switch handlebar group and do the same there.

YUP

Does the key switch actually carry all the current or is there a relay that switches the current?

Thanks,
HH

Yes. The back plate can get loose too. I've installed relays for my horn and ignition. Soon to be lights.
Steve

happyhunter wrote: Does the key switch actually carry all the current or is there a relay that switches the current?

Thanks,
HH

The key switch and starter button activate a relay. The relay completes a circuit directly from the positive battery terminal to the starter motor. Ed

The starter relay takes a lot of power. it is a electro magnet. On a weak system it can rob the current needed for the coils to create enough spark to start the bike. Couple that with lights on, weak battery and it won't start.
Steve

If you can find a manual, it should have a diagram in it.

I opened every connector I could find on the bike and hosed it with contact cleaner. I opened and cleaned the key switch. Most connectors looked fine. Only two looked questionable and I cleaned them up good. After all that I only measured .4V more than before. I do not know what is dropping the voltage.

As a short term fix I wired a switch so I can select to power the coil by the factory wiring or flip the switch and power the coil right off the + side of the battery. I used a short heavy wire with a 10 amp fuse. I only use that position for starting as the Kill switch does not work in that position. So, as soon as it is running it gets flipped back to the factory wiring position. The switch will be easy to remove when I figure out what is dropping the voltage.

I need to do some studying of the diagram the next few nights. Until then it does start now. Yeah if you want to you can easily flip that switch and push start it and steal my bike.

Thanks,
HH