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starter motor vs push starting??
- happyhunter
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Last night after a quick trip to WalMart it would not start. A passerby offered to help "compression start" it. I asked what that was, he said "push it". His friend said she had an old Kawi and they are difficult to start. I thought it would not make any difference: mine cranked but would not fire. But it couldn't hurt to try. He pushed me and it fired right up. I then remembered when I bought it the guy had to push it to get it to start, because it would not fire up from cranking.
So, why is it easier to start when pushing it? Just spins faster? Maybe I just need to park on downhills.....
Thanks,
HH
'82 Kawasaki KZ305CSR
I did not set out to buy a project bike,
but I got one anyway.
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- loudhvx
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1981 KZ550 D1 gpz.
Kz550 valve train warning.
Other links.
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- 650ed
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loudhvx wrote: With electric start, the battery voltage drops. Maybe you should start looking for voltage losses in the ignition system.
Exactly.
The starter pulls current from the battery. If the battery is not fully charged, or if there are voltage losses (high resistance, etc.) in the ignition system there isn't enough current getting to the coil to make a hot spark. By push starting the bike nearly all the current from the battery is available to the coil so it produces a hotter spark.
How old is your battery, and is it holding a full charge? Ed
1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
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- dom2570
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Whip it like a mule!
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- SWest
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- 10 22 2014
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Steve
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- loudhvx
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1981 KZ550 D1 gpz.
Kz550 valve train warning.
Other links.
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- 650ed
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1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
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- Randombeat
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- 0 to 100 real quick...
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1980 KZ750H LTD-- pods-- vance & hines 4-1 --speedo/tach/blinker/switch deletes -- brat style
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- 650ed
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You don't need to make the bike move very fast. If you can get it rolling along in neutral at 5 mph or so you should be able to start it. With the fuel on and the ignition key on get the bike rolling in neutral, pull in the clutch and shift it into first or second gear (second gear should be fine), then quickly let out the clutch. If you let the clutch out slowly you may simply bring the bike to a stop. The bike should start. A cold engine will normally require the choke just as if you were starting it with the electric starter. Once it starts you should be good to go. If the engine is cold you may want to let it warm up a bit before normal riding; again just as if it started with the electric or kick starter.
Do this on dry pavement. If the pavement is wet the rear tire may simply skid. If you try this on pavement that has snow on it, the rear tire will skid for sure (guess how I know). :laugh: I once had it snow while my BSA was parked at school and when I came outside the road had about 2" on snow on it. I had to wait for a car (that had been there since before it snowed) to leave so I could bump start in the dry spot that had been under the car. Oh what fun! Ed
1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
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- MFolks
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To do it, I had the gas on, the ignition on, and in first gear. With the clutch pulled in (squeezed) Got the 500 pound + bike rolling down a slight incline, jumped on, and the same time my butt hit the seat, popped the clutch, and it fired right up.
I had to keep the rev's up as the charging system lost on of the three phases, but being I lived about 1 mile away, made it home ok.
1982 GPZ1100 B2
General Dynamics/Convair 1983-1993
GLCM BGM-109 Tomahawk, AGM-129A Advanced Cruise Missile (ACM)
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- KZB2 650
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1978 KZ650 b-2
700cc Wiseco kit 10 to 1.
1980 KZ750 cam, ape springs, stock clutch/ Barnett springs.
Vance and Hines Header w/ comp baffle and Ape pods, Dyna S and green coils, copper wires.
29MM smooth bores W/ 17.5 pilots, 0-6s and 117.5 main
16/42 gearing X ring chain and alum rear JT sprocket.
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- SWest
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- 10 22 2014
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Fix the bloody starter.
Steve
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