81 Kz1000k LTD, Elec issue

Hey everyone, I've been a lurker on this site since September when I purchased a 81 KZ1000, beautiful bike, runs like a scalded dog. Here are my issues, during late November I was riding and the bike kept wanting to die off, like a car or truck does when the neutral safety switch is going out, so i got the bike back home and parked her untill 5 days ago, she started up fine and rode great for 4 days, then yesterday while at a stop sign she just died, when in neutral/clutch in like i usually start the bike, the rpm gauge will jump for a split second as if it is going to kick over, but it does nothing, one of my ground wires right off the battery was finiggled on, so i respliced and then the bike started up with no hesitation, still in neutral, i started to roll the bike backwards to get it out of the driveway and it died again. So I'm looking for a bit of help troubleshoting what the issue is. I believe i may have a wire grounding out somewhere, or maybe a somthing like a neutral safety switch that it going out, but i can jingle the wires a bit and roll the bike around and then it will start but one wrong angle or roll foward or backwards makes it cut off again as if i've hit the killswitch

All of my lights come on as if it is ready to start, it just won't start and when it does, after screaming and cry and licking it, it will stay on untill i move the bike

Hello, Pacemaker, and WELCOME to KZr!

Might be an issue in the harness wiring when handlebars are turned.
When it dies, could leave the handlebars in their death position, leave the ignition switched ON, and measure voltage at the terminals where the ignition coils are supposed to be receiving full battery voltage through the red or red/yellow wires.
Remember to switch the ignition OFF when finished testing.

Absent an apparent electrical issue, would assure that valve clearances are within specs.
Too tight valves are a classic reason why a cold engine seems to idle okay until it warms up, then dies because the too tight valves begin failing to seal which results in lost compression.

Good Fortune!

Valves are all in order and in tip top shape, and it doesn't shut off until i move it or put it into gear and take off, and sometimes it won't shut off at all, so for the last 4 days of me riding i guess what ever is shorting out has just onm the cusp of failure.

Just guessing, but perhaps there's an issue with a kickstand starter lockout switch that's failing to fully disengage when the kickstand isn't deployed.

If needed, here's a link that has a download button for the wiring diagram located in KZr FILEBASE:
www.kzrider.com/filebase/search/finish/1-general/239-z1000k1

Good Fortune!

I didn't think my bike had one of those o.0
Would that be located on the back of my kickstand?

On second thought, it's probably not a kickstand starter lockout switch issue, as that switch would simply prevent the starter motor from engaging with the kickstand deployed, and I don't know whether any KZ's disallow the engine running when the kickstand's down.

Meanwhile, would check integrity of the ground connection where the negative battery cable attaches to rear of the engine.

And check for possible corrosion in the kill switch (could spray deoxit or other electrical cleaner inside the switch while moving the switch back and forth).

Good Fortune!

so i checked and redid the ground on the back of the engine, and the killswitch is fine, i took it apart and cleaned the inside, what ever my issue is it's causeing the starter to not click or even try to turn over and it's causeing the bike to die out once i get it running, would it be smart to try a new wireing harness?

and as for the lockout, my bike has always ran/started with the kickstand down, but im not ruling anything out, with the clutch pulled in the rpm gauge pointy measurement thingy jumps, as if it is willing to start but nothing happens, and with the clutch out it won't move at all, so it seems like everything is in order except for the starter not kicking over and it dieng off when i breath on it to hard ....is there anything in the tranny that could be causeing this, second gear has never worked in this bike

Pacemaker wrote: ... what ever my issue is it's causeing the starter to not click or even try to turn over and it's causeing the bike to die out once i get it running, would it be smart to try a new wireing harness?....

Wouldn't go for another wiring harness at this point.

If not already done, would inspect the fuse connections to assure good connections on both sides of each fuse. And also replace all the fuses with brand new fuses. It's possible for a fuse to look okay and test okay when cold, but fail when conducting current.

Good Fortune!

If not already done, could also check for possible corrosion in the ignition switch.

Good Fortune!

i sprayed the ignition switch out pretty thoroughly and I'll replace the fuses tomorrow, thank you so much for all the help

If you lose all power, nothing, no lights or anything. Suspect the Main Fuse/ Fuse panel clips. These bikes are known to melt the Main Fuse Clip area of the plastic fuse panel, causing poor or no connection to the fuse.
Look for heat damage at the base of those clips. The diagram Patton provided will show that the red/white wire from the battery positive goes to the main fuse, then runs to the ignition switch with a white wire. At the Fuse panel connector, 6 way plug, you could use a In-line fuse holder to Temporarily add a circuit from the red/white to the white, to test if this is your problem.
The wiring harness at the steering neck is also a problem for pinching, and possibly breaking as it moves when you turn the bars. Also the headlight bucket wiring, is a jam packed mess usually. Lots of places for either a loose wire or a pinched, rubbed through wire.
No side stand switch for the factory on this model. Nothing in the transmission either. Just the clutch lever switch, for the starter lock out.
Good luck with it.