Should I have a digital ignition installed?

koolaid_kid wrote: I stand corrected. That should be easy to check. And fix. And not $400.
Which on-line company do you use, Ed?

In the past I have bought quite a bit from Ronayers.com, but they screwed up their website and now it is missing most "Active" Kawasaki parts. I told them about it more than a month ago; they are working on it. Partzilla.com is actually, on average, a tiny bit less expensive than Ronayers, and their website works well. Z1E also is a good place to buy, especially aftermarket parts.

It is important to look up the part on Kawasaki.com before ordering to see if it is still "Active" because many sites (including Partzilla) show prices for obsolete parts they cannot deliver. For parts no longer "Active" I use eBay or go through a list of vendors that carry obsolete parts. If you have difficulty finding an obsolete part let me know the part number and I'll try to help. Obviously I cannot find everything, some stuff simply is not available anyplace, but I can find some obsolete parts. Ed

chiaronate wrote: The ignition that the mechanic recommended is almost $400, the e-bay part Ed mentioned is about $80 I think.

True, but I wouldn't buy it until verifying that it is actually needed by checking the ignition timing (this is EASY to do). You'll need the manual and a timing light, but get the manual first so you understand the procedure. Ed

Do an OHM check of the sparkplug caps, they unscrew from the sparkplug wires, and should have 5000 ohms resistance. I'd replace all 4, and before installing new caps, cut about 1/4" off the end for a better connection. www.z1enterprises.com sells new ones, and I'd imagine the local motorcycle shops(Japanese) carry them too.

Manuals(Some of these websites sell used manuals, just ask)
www.repairmanual.com (Use # 99924-1026-03 for Kawasaki 1981-2005 Kz/Z1000 Factory Service Manual)
www.manualsnmore.com
www.midwestmanuals.com/
www.books4cars.com/
www.repairmanualclub.com/motomanuals/
moto-manuals.com/
www.e-classicbike.com/

650ed wrote:

chiaronate wrote: The ignition that the mechanic recommended is almost $400, the e-bay part Ed mentioned is about $80 I think.

True, but I wouldn't buy it until verifying that it is actually needed by checking the ignition timing (this is EASY to do). You'll need the manual and a timing light, but get the manual first so you understand the procedure. Ed

www.kawiworld.com/index.php?option=com_c...icle&id=77&Itemid=99
The advancer may well be stuck, and not returning. A simple disassemble and cleaning/ lubing and the problem may be eliminated.
Also you could have Vacuum leaks, dirty/ lean carbs.
Also have you done a compression test? As heavy carbon build up can cause problems.

I picked up my manuals on ebay, used but in good condition/

Ed, I have never seen parts on kawasaki.com. I did find the correct part number on powersports.com. That'll get me going.

You might want to try this...

Go to Kawasaki.com. On left side put cursor over "Owner Information" then on drop down menu click on "Parts Diagrams." The click "Continue" next to "Motorcycles" and click on model/year/etc. on drop down. Once you get the list of parts for your bike you can click on the category of parts - such as "Air Cleaner" and you will see a diagram of all the parts for that category. Then when you click on an actual part number on the list under the diagram it will say if the Item Status is "Active." If it is “Active” Kawasaki still sells the part through dealers. Also, at that little window you can click on the yellow highlighted question mark for a cross reference of which bikes share that part or click on the red highlighted S to see earlier part numbers for the same part. Ed

koolaid_kid wrote: I picked up my manuals on ebay, used but in good condition/

Ed, I have never seen parts on kawasaki.com. I did find the correct part number on powersports.com. That'll get me going.

Patton has a tutorial.
kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&...w&catid=13&id=376734

It could be pretty much anything I guess, I haven't done any of the above mentioned things because I'm not mechanically savvy. I was considering having a full service done to find any possible problems.

One thing I forgot to mention is a tapping sound that the mechanic thinks is an exhaust leak. Would this create a lean condition from the extra air?

If he is a mechanic, he would soon find the exhaust leak, if there is one. They like to leak at the EX ports, if the gaskets are old, are not tight etc. But could easily be a valve out of adjustment, as they tick too.
You can check for the exhaust leak yourself. Use a piece of hose/ tubing near your ear, and run it around near the ex ports. You soon hear it if there is a leak. Check the service manual for the correct torque on the ex nuts, then tighten them.

I was going to do that, but it has a windjammer on it that makes everything difficult. I did manage to get a socket on a few of the exhaust nuts and they seemed loose, and I think the ticking sound is coming from the front of the motor. I'm going to take some wrenches out there soon and see what I can do. Is correct torque very important, can I just make them snug without overdoing it? The reason I ask is because it's difficult to get in there with a wrench, I'm definitely not fitting a torque wrench in there.