GPz550 No Spark

I have a 1982 GPz550 and I've been trying to get it started. I finally got the fuel system cleaned out and ready for a tank of gas and hit the road. But I have no spark. I have been told the igniter is a common problem. I paid $340 for the bike and a new ignitor is around $270. Is there a way to make sure that's what my problem is with out buying a new one and hoping that cures the problem?

Yes. Be sure that you are getting at least 12.5 volts to the coils. If so, be sure that the secondary wires are in good shape, if not, replace them. If you are not getting full voltage to the coils, you need to test each part of the circuit back to the battery if necessary. You do have a good battery, right?

No. Actually I was jumping it when I was checking for spark. When I hit the start button, the ignitor either clicks or buzzes. Depending how much battery there is. But since you did mention the battery, I will ask, if the battery is shot, even though I can crank it over with the jumper cables hooked up, could that cause no spark? Just as simple as just the battery? I need one reguardless. But if that could cure the problem, it beats looking for the igniter for about 270 dollars. When I only paid 340 dollars for the bike,

Find "Loudhvx's" replacement using off the shelf GM ignition modules. It works only with the bikes with the mechanical ignition advancer.

Also do this check for the pick up coils:

Ohm Checking Pickup(Pulsing) Coils

The pickup(Pulsing) coils on the Kawasaki’s with the factory supplied electronic ignition can sometimes fail or become intermittent due to heat and vibration.

1.Trace back from where the pick up coils are mounted,(BEHIND A RIGHT SIDE, CD SIZED COVER) locate and disconnect a small 4 pin connector. Using a multi-meter set on OHMS and range of 2K, check between the BLUE and BLACK wires(#1 and #4 sparkplug wires) for between 360- 540 OHMS.

2.For #2 and #3 sparkplugs the wire colors will be YELLOW and RED, again 360-540 OHMS. The 550’s,650’s & 750’s may be backwards to the Z1’s,Kz900’s,Kz1000’s & Kz1100’s.

3.If the pickup coils are suspect of failing due to heat, they can be stressed using a hair dryer without the need of the engine running.

4.A replacement set of pickup coils might be obtained from a dealer who serviced the police Kawasaki’s.

5. If replacement pickup coils are not available, your next choice would be to order a Dyna “S” electronic ignition system from www.z1enterprises.com It replaces the IC igniter with a smaller module located where the mechanical ignition advancer was mounted.

6. Checking with Kawasaki.com website has determined that the Pick up(pulsing) coils are available . The pulsing coil # is 59026-1133 and replaces the older # 1002, 1012 which were used from the MKII motors until the 2005 P24.

7.Check the small 4 pin connector that the pickup coils connect to for corrosion/loose pins too.

Ignition Coil Primary And Secondary Wiring

Ignition coils on the 80’s Kz1000,Kz1100’s and Gpz1100’s are wired the same, that is as you sit on the bike, the LEFT ignition coil primary(small wires) are two wires, RED and BLACK. The secondary (or sparkplug wires) go to #1 and #4 sparkplugs(your primary wiring may be different).

Read carefully, as the 550’s, 650’s, 700’s & 750’s are backwards to what is listed for the bigger 4’s.

The cylinders are numbered left to right as you sit on the seat; #1,#2,#3, and #4.

For the RIGHT ignition coil, the primary wires, again are two wires, RED and GREEN, with the secondary going to #2 and #3.

The RED wire gets it’s voltage from the run/stop switch on the right handlebar switch pod. Your primary wiring may have a different color.

The BLACK and GREEN wires connect to the IC Igniter(if the bike has the Kawasaki supplied electronic ignition) it actually gives the coils their grounds to fire the sparkplugs. The RED wire is common to both ignition coils.

Primary(small wires) side of the coils will read between 1.8 to 3.0 ohms.

Secondary(sparkplug wire ports)side of the coil will read between 10.4K to 15.6K ohms. These ports are wired together, so it makes no difference which is used, as long as the correct coil to sparkplug configuration is followed.

The sparkplug caps should read 5K OHMS(5000), any higher, or a reading of infinity means new caps should be ordered. When re-installing the old or new sparkplug caps, cut about ¼” off the sparkplug wires for a new un-corroded connection.

Never run supression sparkplug wires with sparkplug caps containing the 5000 ohm resistor, as now there will be two (2) resistances in the ignition coil’s secondary circuit, causing weak and intermittent spark.


To stress the ignition coils, take a hair dryer, heat the coils and see if the ohm readings change from cold to hot . If they do, it’s time to buy new coils.

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Keep in mind, the wiring is reversed for the 550’s, 650‘s,700’s, and 750‘s, that is the RIGHT coil primary will be two wires, RED and BLACK with the secondary(sparkplugs) going to #1 and #4.

The LEFT coils primary wiring would be again two wires, RED and GREEN, with the secondary(sparkplugs) going to #2 and #3.

An indication of black and sooty sparkplugs may not mean a carb or carbs are in need of cleaning, but may mean the input voltage is low.

When checking the input voltage to the ignition coils, first have a fully charged battery, and the using a multimeter, set it up to measure VDC(Volts, Direct Current), range of 20.

Put the RED probe from the multimeter on the same terminal that either a RED wire or ones that’s RED with YELLOW stripe, and the BLACK probe on either a good frame/Earth ground or the battery Negative(-) terminal/post.

Depending on the motorcycles current draw( lighting, and other high amp needs) the reading might be 10 volts or more, but if the reading is down around 8 volts or less, this indicates a corrosion or wiring problem needs correcting to improve input voltage to the coils.

These engines have what is known as a “Wasted Spark” that is, a sparkplug will fire during an exhaust stroke. It does no damage and many other motorcycle engines have this design.

Okay to jump, provided donor vehicle isn't running and its ignition switch is OFF whenever the jumper cables are attached. If bike battery is jumped from a running vehicle, bad things usually happen.

Jumping a dead bike battery from another good battery should afford plug spark.

As TexasKZ suggested, would confirm voltage being received at the bike's ignition coils, while the battery is being jumped.

Insufficient voltage to coils results in weak spark or zero spark.

Good Fortune!

My meter only has 200k, 200k, 20k, 2000 and 200 in the ohm section. Would it matter? Would it show the same numbers just move a decimal over a place or two?

With fuel tank removed, should see a red-yellow wire going to each ignition coil.

The red-yellow wires usually come from a dual connector, that's easy to see and get to.

With the bike ignition switch ON, there should be voltage inside the dual connector.



Good Fortune!

When checking the resistance(ohms of the ignition coils, disconnect the sparkplug leads from the plugs and the primary(small wires) from the coils, otherwise the reading may be affected.

Put the multimeter(I assume it's digital) on ohms(looks like an upside down horseshoe) range of 200. Put one probe on one of the ignition coils primary connections, and the other probe on the remaining connection. If the igniton coil is good, you'll get a reading. Heat up the ignition coil with a hair dryer and check the reading again.

Thank you. That picture helps a lot. I have a plug under the back side of the seat that is yellow with a red stripe that has the dual female plug on it but there is nothing plugged in it. There are 2 white wires also that have female ends and only one of them have a male end plugged in it. I hops my problem is something simple. I am on a pretty tight budget. Thank you for your help. I am going to step out and go take a look and see what I can find.

Never check voltage with the multimeter set up to test resistances(ohms) as the meter may be destroyed or damaged beyond repair......

Why? When configured to check ohms, the meter is using an internal battery for delicate testing, so applying an external voltage could burn out the meter.

I went out and probed around a bit. Some numbers came up when I did some things but not others. I think I will have to get someone over hare that knows how to use one of these things. Your instructions seem as plain as day, but I don't know that much about ignition systems to save my lifr. I just rebuild trannys on classic cars. No wiring or electronics at all. I will vet back to y'all tomorrow and let ya know what I find. Again, thank you for your knowledge and help. It is much needed and appriciared.