kz750 ltd h2 1981 - will crank wont start fully?

Thats some good pictures there Angel.
The bottom picture is the Kawasaki Rotor. You need to Align the 1/4 "F" mark with the mark on the engine case. Then as per the instructions from Brandson, set the New rotor onto the end of the crankshaft so that the magnets align with the Pick-ups. Those are the two small electric coils with the posts sticking out. Brandson says their Rotor is not Keyed or Pinned, so it can go on and be off significantly. It just needs to have the pick-ups and the magnets from their Rotor align when the Engine marks are lined up, 1/4 "F" mark. Then you can get it running, and check it with your new timing light. Some further adjustment will be required to get it correct.

hi patton & motorhead

this is a little alum. mounting bracket i designed and made
to accomodate and use existing placement of the Boyer ignition module!
keeps in cool as well. Boyer suggest positioning on the frame, above the
hot engine. mine is under the battery box and i've used heatproof sleeving!

many thanks

Angel

hi motorhead!

thanks!

i tried to upload my photos from my iphone, it wouldn't work. i photographed the parts -5GB
then using a free app from apple 'simplyresize' made the images for the forum.
you can only upload from your computer!...

as you're not busy would you like to fly over to the uk and fix the timing for me!

Seriously i don't know how to set my timing.

quote: 'You need to Align the 1/4 "F" mark with the mark on the engine case'

where are the engine timing marks please?
in the workshop manual 53 bottom right it mentions pulling the engine apart!

when you remove the central bolt, there is a little pip, where the rear of the plate
notches in, to orientate the plate. i've then put the 12/13mm bolt back in and righty tighted!..
however since the new ignition system was put in i've lost the 17mm bolt.

does the bike have to be in/out of gear?

things you know, things you don't know. i've never set timing before.

many thanks

angel


i

Congrats on the picture posting!

This will confirm identity of the F mark and case timing mark.



When the F mark for 1/4 aligns with the case mark, the ignition is supposed to un-ground a small wire from whichever coil has plug wires to the outside #1 and #4 spark plugs.

Un-grounding the coil causes the coil to fire.

Good Fortune!

hi patton!

thank you so much, you've made this
gal very happy with your brilliant
pictorial guides!

yippeeeeer! i feel like shouting eureka!
i think i've grasped it now. in the uk
we say 'the penny has dropped!'

i need to reattach the big 17mm bolt
and then rotate the timing plate a smidge to line
the 'F' = fire to align with the engine mark.
i didn't even know that little mark was there!

on the fitting instructions from boyer, they
advise the following:-

so many degrees from TDC, it mentions
this other adjustment for the z1, z1000,
i don't know about kz750 ltd?

motorhead has been really helpful too,
many thanks. it's greatly appreciated ya all!

providing the bike starts after the static timing
is successful.
a friend is coming round tomorrow with
an inductive strobe. is it true that i need to

continued......

q) is it technically correct that you
connect the inductive strobe light to
a spare battery, not the bikes battery.
as this gives a false reading?

fingers crossed for the ignition
alignment tomorrow!.... i'm getting
really excited on my kaw starting up.
how do i upload my first start up
video, same way?

wow, we're nearly there Euston!
:-)x thank you gang, the drinks are on me!

You can hook the strobe up to the bike's battery; it will not cause a problem or false reading at all. Ed

thanks ed!

it was boyer bransden who advised me
not to use the bikes battery.
i'm confused now!

regards

Angel

If they made the ignition system I would follow their advice. I have been performing my own tuneups on my KZ650-C1 for 35 years and never have I even heard of using a separate battery; it certainly is not required when using Kawasaki the stock ignition on my bike. All the strobe does is sense the firing of the spark plug (using the inductive pickup clamped around a spark plug wire) and upon sensing that it completes the power circuit from the battery that triggers the strobe light. I guess it's possible that the Bransden electronic components are so sensitive that they are affected when the strobe pulls power from the bike's battery. I wonder if the timing gets squirrely when the turn signals are used?

hi ed!

great to hear from you!

gosh 35 years of biking, you've hotter
weather over in the states, lucky you!

why don't you send kevin the main technician
at boyers, an email! they're right nice people. i don't
know what effect it will have on the turns!
we all could learn something!

Angel

Where is the gas pouring out of? As previously said - gas should never overflow for any reason.
Leaving the choke on/throttle twisted/gas on - does not matter.
If fuel is overflowing - carb float needles/needle seats require maintenence in order for bike to run correctly. There's lots of excellent info for repair on this forum...

Compression is very important. Do you have a compression guage? Check compression.
Valves may require adjustment - as per regualr maintenence section of your manual.

The fuel hight in the carb bowls and the pilot fuel jets being clean/clear is required.
Correct amount of idle input on the carbs is required. (small thumb screw to increase/decrease idle).

Get your spark going good/timed - make sure there is good compression. With correct fuel height and clear pilot jets - carbs at default settings. Bike will fire and run, no problems.

Fuel + Air in proper ratio. Spark correctly timed. Compression = Ignition!

Good luck. Have patience! Its not difficult stuff, just time consuming!



Sorry, forgot to mention: if you dont have compression guage do this:
Disconnect power wire from each coil.
Remove all plugs.
Have someone hold throttle full open.
Lick thumb/finger and place over plug hole.
Press thumb down hard creating seal.
Turn bike on/pull clutch.
Press starter down... the compression should pop your finger off the hole no matter how hard you push down.
If it does this for all cylinders - there is enough compression to start and idle!
Dont worry -it wont suck in your finger - dont be a scared!



:laugh: