No thermoplastic switches. No nylon switches.

The starter solenoid, electrically, is essentially a big relay in this case. (On cars it may do more mechanical actions, which is why it's called a solenoid instead of merely a relay, but on bikes it's essentially just a big relay.)

The solenoid has two circuits. One is the high amperage circuit. This is what connects directly to the battery and the starter. When the solenoid completes this circuit the starter turns.

The other circuit is the solenoid's coil circuit (not ignition coil, the term coil used generally refers to ignition coil, but not here). This uses low amperage to activate the solenoid. This circuit is the one that gets isolated by the ignition switch, and the starter button. The start button has no power to it when the ignition switch is turned off. When the ignition switch is turned on, the starter button gets power, then when the starter button is pressed it sends power to the solenoid's coil circuit to activate the solenoid.

So the ignition switch and starter button are in series with the coil circuit of the starter solenoid. A battery isolator interrupts the high amperage circuit to the starter solenoid in addition to interrupting the circuit to the ignition switch. The isolator would have to handle tens or even hundreds of amps. They are rather big and unsightly, which would be counter to trying to hide the electrical.

I also like hiding the electrical devices so I don't like to use big grounding blocks or junction blocks. They collect dirt and get ugly fast. When mounted to a large plate they look ok, but then it's hard to hide.

For grounding, I run the big negative battery cable to a convenient clean bolt on the motor. From there I run a 12 gauge or 14 gauge wire to a bolt somewhere on the frame, near the battery, but hidden under the seat or tank. From there I run my ground wires to the same bolt using simple loop lugs. This has the lowest profile, and still allows the addition of other ground wires. Usually I end up with one 14 gauge wire going to the front of the bike and one toward the rear. All other ground wires T off from this "bus" wire.

I use a similar technique as the factory for T junctions. The factory uses crimps, but I use solder to attach a wire in a T, but then lay the wires parallel for a couple inches and cover with good electrical tape. Some tape breaks too easily. Get good tape. Taping the wires together, parallel, prevents the breakage associated with soldering wire to wire.

Every device should get it's own ground wire. Even though the frame is grounded, I don't use the frame ground for anything that matters, lights especially. It's too unreliable due to rust and dirt. The only things that would use the engine to frame ground circuit are the oil light and neutral light. There is no other option on those. The horn typically also uses frame/chassis ground. But in your case, since you are getting custom switches/buttons, you may want to run a ground wire for the button. I'll redraw that when the final decisions are made.

If you look at the wiring diagram I drew you can see the grounding structure, electrically.

Ah yes, captain dumbass here sees that now. So the switch is really for letting the starter button work & powering the coil? (im wiring the lights to it too though)

Is the solid metal earth block ok to install? I can then earth everything to it so the connections are good.

Yes, but as I said above, it's a little bit bulky and collects dirt. It's up to you. I've used them in the past, but then found them unnecessary after I streamlined the wiring. Just 3 lugs on a bolt, on the frame, is cleaner looking, in my opinion.

Ok, Lou, i'll do it like you say & if i feel the need to add it when doing the wiring i'll add it.

On the joints/junctions, try to use a good quality heatshrink to keep moisture and corrosion out.

Some information about heatshrink tubing,connectors, & tools:

Wire Termination Insulation & Sizes

Terminal Insulation Color Wire Sizes
RED

---

22-18 gauge wire
BLUE

---

16-14 gauge wire
YELLOW

---

12-10 gauge wire

The ring terminal holes comes in many sizes, from #4 up to 1/2" in most cases, it's a matter of finding the tightest fitting hole to fit the fastener for the termination.

American Wire Gauge(AWG) is backwards to what many people think; that is 22 gauge is many times smaller than 10 gauge even though the number is bigger.

Steve, confused? we're here to help, so don't be afraid to ask questions....

No, im pretty ok now but i cant believe i thought the solenoid was wired through a switch! :lol: Just call me the forum clown! :woohoo:

I did order some good terminals along with the rest of the stuff today
www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/63/category/9
www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/65/category/9
www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/64/category/9

I also got some of this to redo my stator wires & i'll put a new plug on them as well
www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/342/category/66

There were also some Japanese Bullet connectors, some battery & solenoid terminals, heatshrink, terminal covers & between 5 & 6 AWG battery wire (nearer 5 than 6, the flexible stuff)

Boy it all adds up! But most of it went on good switches which hopefully will not let me down.

As i said, sorry for coming across dumb & all but i really enjoy learning to do things like this myself & if i can learn then i'll know how to fix things & that it'll be done correctly. I've came a long way in actually wanting to do this myself & some idea's have changed. For example, i had a guy lined up to do the wiring & he said all would be wired through relay's which i've found out is prob not the best way, i didn't know relay's could fail & needed to be mounted to reduce vibration before looking into all this. I now know alot more than i ever thought i would about switches, currents for various devices & various other things. Everyone on here is really helpfull & i commend that, there's no way i would attempt it myself if i couldnt ask you guys questions & learn from you all. Mfolks - between you, Lou, Steell & Motor Head i've been more or less carried. Thanks Guys

No problem, this forum and others like it are a wealth of information, a person just has to ask for help...

No prob. I learn from these posts too.

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationWell if you guys ever have a modern sportbike & need some suspension or brake advice maybe you can call on me, however i doubt that'll happen!

MFolks, this is the tape i bought for wrapping the wires when im done

It looks like good stuff, here's a selection from what's on this side of the pond:

Electrical Wire Harness/Loom Tapes
www.pcsconnectors.com/harness_tape.aspx
www.deadnutson.com/catalog/item/2965331/6122491.htm
www.tapebrothers.com
www.wiringharness.com
www.findtape.com/shop/product.aspx?id=32...&width=1436&height=0