No thermoplastic switches. No nylon switches.

sorry, I went back and re-read the post and edited accordingly. Your logic, electrically is sound.

Yes, a relay for the horn is not uncommon on cars for that reason. But try it through just the switch first. It may work. What amps rating are the buttons you want to use?

What are your thoughts on this:
www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/202/category/41

loudhvx wrote: sorry, I went back and re-read the post and edited accordingly. Your logic, electrically is sound.

What are your thoughts on this:
www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/202/category/41

Thats actually very good in my opinion, but i'm learning from you dont forget! :lol:
With the switch you've linked when its in the ON position can i wire the starter solenoid AND the coil to it though? If it were a 3 position it'd definately be on the list!
Will it carry enough current though? 20A is its rating

Is wiring the 2nd switch to the 1st switch safe to do or should i wire it directly to power?

750steve wrote:

loudhvx wrote: sorry, I went back and re-read the post and edited accordingly. Your logic, electrically is sound.

What are your thoughts on this:
www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/202/category/41

Thats actually very good in my opinion, but i'm learning from you dont forget! :lol:
With the switch you've linked when its in the ON position can i wire the starter solenoid AND the coil to it though? If it were a 3 position it'd definately be on the list!
Will it carry enough current though? 20A is its rating

Is wiring the 2nd switch to the 1st switch safe to do or should i wire it directly to power?

Yes, that is how the factory does it. The key switch would just be a single on-off switch at 20A. It would then feed the lighting switch, and the two push-buttons. You can buy spare keys from them too.

The only question, then, is what is the quality on the switches from that company. You can get generic ignition switches much cheaper, but their quality is not great, and they are much bigger. If that small key switch is of high quality, then that's what I'd go with.

I edited my earlier post to ask what push-buttons you have decided on.

By the way, the key switch in question is double-pole, which means it has two sets of contacts. If the 20A rating means 20A per contact (which is the way it should be rated), that would mean it really handles 40 amps. This is good, because you can then use one set of contact for ignition/start, and the other for lights, which can aid in troubleshooting in the future etc.

www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/202/category/41

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationSorry, i didnt see your edit. I havent decided on which push buttons to go with. Dependant on their depth theese might be quite good, im not so sure about the horn though knowing it is high current now


So in the switch in your last post i can wire 1 side to the ignition on & coil (then the push button on the bar to the starter solenoid)........then the other side to the 4 position light switch? (providing its of decent quality)

I would then use this for the lights:
080203 on-off-on toggle 16A
It has two sets of contacts, so you basically get 32 amps for the lights.

You have two options on how to wire it:

You can wire it so side and tail lights are on whenever the ignition is on, then use this second toggle to go from headlight-off or high-beam-on or low-beam-on. In an emergency, you could pull the light connector off the ignition switch to go totally dark.

The other option would be all lights off, or side and tail and low-beam on, or side and tail and high-beam on.

You rarely would ever run totally dark. And you really should be able to start with the headlight on, so you would rarely even touch the headlight switch. But in either scheme, you could start the bike with the headlight off to get a few extra amps to the starter while cranking.

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configuration

750steve wrote: Sorry, i didnt see your edit. I havent decided on which push buttons to go with. Dependant on their depth theese might be quite good, im not so sure about the horn though knowing it is high current now

Now that is a good looking push-button. Based on the description, and 11 amps, I wouldn't hesitate to use that for the horn.

So in the switch in your last post i can wire 1 side to the ignition on & coil (then the push button on the bar to the starter solenoid)........then the other side to the 4 position light switch? (providing its of decent quality)

Yes.
However, I am recommending the 3-position toggle per my previous post. But the 4-way would work, pending quality.

loudhvx wrote:
You can wire it so side and tail lights are on whenever the ignition is on, then use this second toggle to go from headlight-off or high-beam-on or low-beam-on. In an emergency, you could pull the light connector off the ignition switch to go totally dark.

The other option would be all lights off, or side and tail and low-beam on, or side and tail and high-beam on.

You rarely would ever run totally dark. And you really should be able to start with the headlight on, so you would rarely even touch the headlight switch. But in either scheme, you could start the bike with the headlight off to get a few extra amps to the starter while cranking.

Those are some very good options. Maybe i've been being over cautious about light usage? I did want full manual control over the lighting position (ie. so i could have them all off) but i suppose it wouldnt be too much of a drain to have the tail & sidelight on with the ignition? I'm just thinking of giving my charging system an easier time & taking less out of the battery.

Are those push switches ok to wire directly to the starter & horn? (rated 11A @ 12V). I could do with smaller ones but if 2 buttons are all i have to mount on the bars i can live with that.

Oh, you've already answered! :lol:

See, it takes time but i do learn :woohoo:

:laugh:

Now, i must find out if that push button is water proof!

You're help & knowledge is amazing by the way!

Lou, do you see any problem with wiring my normal sidelight & an LED rear light in the same circuit that we're discussing?